desertRunner3.4L

Six months ago, I bought a rebbuilt 22RE from Attarco engines in Sacramento California and It just blew a head gasket. Also sounds like the timing chain is eating away at the timing cover and i talked to a few mechanics and they believe that there is a crack in the head somewhere! I am going to take the head of this week, but i was wondering where should I buy a head??? engnbldr or Lcengineering?
I have combustion pressure going into the coolant and its been shooting out of the radiator like a shaken up soda pop, even after the truck has been sitting for a full day. I just really need some help guys! I spent nearly $1,600 between the eninge and all new parts. I really love my 4Runner and i dont want to be forced to srap it. I should get more than 6 months out of a rebuilt motor, i would think!!

Please share some advice here!

john4wd

6 months is BS!!!! No warentee heh?
Both are great replacement heads, use OEM head gasket when you rebuild it...
I went with the engnbldr stock pro head with an installed 268 torquer cam.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

I have the Engnbldr Street RV head on mine, with no issues so far. I did a ton of research before I bought it, and i found a bunch of positive feedback on all the Toyota forums I frequent. Their stock head is priced right as well. Might as well get the top end kit from EB too, since it's good quality. LC has nice stuff, but a bit pricey.

Attarco is junk. Sorry to hear about your luck.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Have your head pressure tested. Maybe it's just a bad gasket.

iselloil

Sunwest can repair or replace the head.http://www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/

desertRunner3.4L

So I have decided to go with engnbldr. Going to buy a bare head, A new set of Rings and a gasket set and install the other valves, guides, rocker assembly and cam into the new head. I pulled the rebuilt head off the other day and i noticed that the cyls #1 and #2 are washed from coolant, and #4 is getting alot of burnt oil onto the valves, piston and the plug as well. Bad rings maybe?? i think so. Also #4 has alot of grooves in the cylinder wall. So I might need to re-hone it before the new rings go in. Going to rebuild it and hopefully call it a day!

desertRunner3.4L

By the way, thanks guys for your help with this. I've heard nothing but great reviews about engnbldr! Hopefully I can have a successfull rebuild this time without any major issues.

desertRunner3.4L

I just recently rebuilt my 22RE that got from Attarco. I bought it rebuilt from these guys and it lasted for a mere 5,000 miles and 6mo. The engine now seems to have good compression, decent power and it's reasonable quiet after the valve adjustment. However, i still have a mystery problem with it running too lean!!

Below is a list of what i have done:

1. had the block bored 0.020 over
2. bought new 0.020 over rings and psitons
3. bought a bare head from engnbldr.com and installed the original cam in and lapped the old valves into the head along with new valve guides and seals.
4. new exhaust manifold
5. new plugs, wires, cap& rotor.
6. new radiator, water pump and new thermostat.
7. re-used the timing cover, oil pump and oil pickup tube.

All parts were propperly cleaned with a solvent tank and degreaser.

I spent several weeks on this rebuild. I got the engine to run and had my neighbor helped me along the way. The only major issue is that it surges at about 2,000 to 2,500 rpm's. my neighbor is a mechanic, and he hooked up his "snap-on" scope or tester to the following electronics:

1. O2 sensor
2. TPS sensor
3. AFM

these three things checked out fine and all vaccum lines are fine. Ignition timing is fine. So what's the problem then, i ask!

Next we moved on to the fuel system. I removed the upper plenum and we pulled the fuel rail with injectors still inside the rail and we tested for bad injectors. Injectors seem to be working fine. It has adequate fuel pressure to the rail.

I just wish i could find the damn problem with this.
Anyone have Ideas??? could it be a fuel pump or filter issue?? any help would be great!

desertRunner3.4L

Anyone?

Bob_T

Vacuum leak? Hooking up a vacuum gauge is an old fashioned but simple and effective troubleshooting tool.

john4wd

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...itself-242157/

Read this, I had a surging and high RPM trouble with my newly redone motor and solved it with a new used TB from a wreaked truck which I assumed was fully functional when wreaked, so I bought it for $30 bucks and put new gasket on and started truck after adjusting the dime size flathead screw on top of the new used TB and that cured my surging, high RPM's at idle when cold and warm and now it idles when warm at 750 RPM's.

On mine the old TB when adj. screw was turned to the left it would begin to surge (up and down over and over) when I turned it all the way down to the right the surging would stop but the idle would still stay at 2000 RPM's and that's the sign of a bad "idle, air, control valve" I heard, the iac valve is located directly under and attached to the throttlebody. it has coolant hoses connected to it. Here is a link to that thread, I hope all this helps....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-like-143319/

mountaingoat

If you're gonna drop the coin on an EB head, may I suggest the Street RV? Just put mine on this week and I love it. Well worth the extra cha-ching.

desertRunner3.4L

I will re-check my throttle body and idle air control valve as well. Like i said before, it idles perfectly around 900rpm. As soon as i try to rev the engine up to 2,000 RPM's, and if i try to keep it held steady at the rpm, it will surge meaning the RPM's will fluctuate between 1,900 and 2,400 rpm. My neighbor wants to check the igntion coil. it seems like there is at least five different electronic sensors that could cause this issue.

desertRunner3.4L

Oh! and Mountaingoat, I got an EB head, but it was a bare head with no valves or cam in it. I paid $250 for it. I reused my valves and stock cam since they were in great shape still.