rocco33

hi i just got this 92 toyota truck auto with 95k miles a week ago and was running fine until sunday when it would shut off after it would warm up took it the mechanic and he say blown head gasket ($1200 repair).

so i take it home and decide to do it myself came on here and found the manual and took it apart but now i hit a wall the chain guide look like they are broken and has a nice groove on the right side (as you look at the motor) from the chain slapping

wanted to know if the broken guides can cause the blown head gasket or the other way around and any other issues before i proceed to buy parts

should i reapir the timing chain and head gasket and hope for the best or buy a used engine for it as i dont know what else could be wrong with it thanks

here are some pictures thanks

toyota4x4907

Replace the timing chain guides. Metal or plastic. The timing chain wont cause the head gasket to fail, nor vice-versa. The guides just wear out. The chain needs to be replaced every 90K-120K miles anyway. Eventually, the chain will wear into the timing cover where those grooves are and rupture the coolant passage there, introducing coolant into the oil. You're already half way to getting the timing set off (head off). You definitely need to replace them.

SCToy

Yes its worth repairing. Get a timing chain kit, new timing cover, also a good time to do the water pump and pil pump. Those can all be pretty cheap at engnbldr, get the headgasket from toyota.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

yep,x2!!!

rocco33

thanks going to try to do the timing chain but I've read to take the pulley off is easier to bump the starter but it;s already apart you have any suggestions as to the best way to loosen that bolt i have an auto tranny and all the suggestion i read are for a manual

also the kit from engnbldr looks like a good price so am going to order it but do you guys not recommend the head gasket kit he has it includes the bolts. where do you guys get the bolts from if i don't buy that one

SCToy

I used ARP studs, which is way overkill for a stock 22re, but i wanted it to be.
You can order the head gasket kit and use head bolts and the rest of the gaskets and just get the head gasket it from toyota. For the pulley, you can use a strap and wrap it around so that loosening the bolt tightens the rope. Just tie it off on the frame rail.

scope103

Yup, you can read that a lot. But it's a complete waste of time (as well as really dangerous). If you get the pulley off that way, how are you going to get it back on? I needs 116 ftlbs of torque; doable with a long 1/2" torque wrench, but you have to keep the crankshaft from turning.

You'll need to fabricate a cheap (very cheap) tool to hold the pulley. I, of course, am partial to this one https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/, but there are lots of others just as good.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The crankshaft bolt can get real tight and having the parking brake, in gear, tires blocked and drive shaft chained up and 4 foot of cheater bar on one of the worse ones I ever tried to loosen and still couldnt get it to break loose. I pulled the motor to get my 3/8ths? air hose to break it loose and it wouldnt get it. Finally took it to a mechanic and his 3/8ths hose wouldnt get it. He had a 1/2 air hose and it broke it loose. This motor looked liked it had never been worked on.

That is the worse case scenario, but I still have taken 1 other motor to the mechanic to get his to free it up. The starter trick has never failed me yet and if the starter works, is the only way that I do it. You will be in the cab and will be alright.

Since you already have the head off, you are going to need a breaker bar. Really no safe way now to use the starter. Just for future reference though if you are getting into a 22r motor, break the crankshaft bolt loose first.

What you are experincing is quite common for the 22re. You can get a new head for $250ish. You need to send it to a machine shop and have it checked. If machine work is going to cost more then $180 or so, I just buy a new one. You will get cam and lifters. The first one I did cost $210 and had I known of the new head then, for $40 it would of been a better engine I am sure.

There are quite a few build threads on these motors and each give some good ideas. I think 92 Toy has one of the best write ups. You will need to find the head part as he did a full rebuild. On my 88 Runner build below starting on page 38 are a few tips and on the 85 build the bottom half of the first page and second page is some more tips. I will combine them on the 85 but that wont be til next week. To cold to mess with it this week.

More then likely your plenum, hoses, and EGR all need a good cleaning while you are into it that far. Check your hoses under your plenum as well, it is alot easier to replace them now then later. This being your first time, you may not want to get into it again any time soon.

I have both the FSM and Haynes manual and they both work great for me. Search ebay for a hard copy of the FSM and there are places you can download one. I got mine for $30. Both manuals say to torque head bolts to 58ft pounds. It is actually 60 something. (62 or 64 I think) I just do 65.

WD_40

I got the complete engnbldr rebuild kit which came with an oil pump. I took one look at that thing and immediately bought an OEM pump instead. The housing looked to be sand casted and was such poor quality that you couldn't even read the timing marks.

I got OEM Toyota/Aisin water and oil pumps at a good price on eBay. I wasn't about to chance it with sand cast components as vital as those.

Just one man's opinion -- it's worth what you paid for it. =)

SCToy

He can't put it in gear because its an auto. You can make that tool or use a strap wrench if he can't weld. Strap wrench worked for me when i did the crank bolt on an auto 3.4

SCToy

That's funny, i used an oem oil pump and water pump too, but many people suggested using engnbldr for everything but the headgasket, atleast that's what i read on here time and time again anyways.

WD_40

Yeah, I know a lot of people have used all engnbldr stuff and had good results, but for me the choice was OEM for pumps and HG. I also went with Nippon piston rings instead of the Rock rings in the EB kit.

Those were the choices I made based on my research, and what I would recommend to others, but no judgment on those who opt for something else. To each his own!

WD_40

This is what my EB/Rock oil pump looked like. It may have been perfectly fine, but the quality of the casting didn't instill confidence. Plus it would have made setting the timing accurately rather difficult.:

rocco33

thanks guys really helped out am going to build that tool with some angle iron i have laying around and see how it works and ill do some more research for the parts

i also took the head to the machine shop and should hear something next couple of days if they are able to rebuild it or i need a new one