mountaingoat

Hi!

I've just bought my first yota, first yota truck anyway.

It's a '90 4X4 ext. cab, 22r-e, 5-speed, 198,000 miles.

It's been heavily undercoated for the last 17 years, so virtually no rust - even exposed undercarriage nuts and bolts spin off easily.

Known problems:

Mystery coolant leak

Rattling, worn-out timing chain/sprockets/cover

Idle runs high when cold (~2500 RPM)

I'm about to replace the timing chain/cover/sprockets etc. (parts on order from engnbldr), but I have a couple questions surrounding that...

I was told by the P.O. when I bought the truck that it needed a head gasket. However, I'm no longer sure I believe this...

My reasoning:

1. compression test shows 145-150 across the board, all 4 cylinders.
2. no sign of coolant in oil (looks clean on the dipstick, and inside the rocker assembly, which was open while adjusting valves.)
3. doesn't appear to have oil in coolant reservoir
4. lots of visible coolant leakage on the rear of the engine, appears to originate somewhere near the top of the bellhousing.
5. no sign of white smoke on startup

All this leads me to think that I don't have blown head gasket, and that the coolant leak is either:
1. heater tube
2. freeze plug

I haven't verified either theory yet, that's just a guess from searching around on this site. If it's the heater, I'm on easy street. If it's the freeze plug, I understand that I need to crack the bellhousing (and do the clutch while I'm in there I suppose.)

I have a perfectly functional car, so having the truck in pieces for a few weeks isn't a problem. I have $2500 into the truck so far (just what I paid), and am willing to put another grand into it if needed, though of course I'd prefer less - but at the end of the day what I want to end up with is a truck that runs really, really good.

I'm not a master mechanic - but I've done a couple transmission swaps, and a lot of work on motorcycles, including 24-valve shim-under-bucket valve jobs on sportbikes - the yota is refreshingly simple after that. ;-)

Which leads me to my question...

I've read that the "right" way to do the timing chain is to pull the head, though it can be done without.

So, to fix the coolant leak and timing chain, does it make more sense to:

1. Try to fix the coolant leak first (if it's the easy one - the heater hose), then do the timing chain without pulling the head?

2. Pull the head, and do the head gasket/timing chain/etc. all at once, and see if that solves the coolant leak also?

3. Completely remove engine from vehicle, and do EVERYTHING, all at once? This would include, though not limited to: Head gasket, timing kit and associated (oil/water pumps and so on), clutch, freeze plug if needed, various and sundry oil seals, valve seals, etc.

4. complete rebuild (given the compression readings, I tend to think this is overkill. I'm into doing a complete motor rebuild soon just for the experience, but not sure this is the place or time. I'd like to have the truck back on the road before snowfly, and if I'm doing a rebuild I don't want to rush it.)

So...votes?

Or maybe none of the above. If you have a better idea, I want to hear it.

--Johnny
AKA MountainGoat

nix4x4

From what I understand, 22R motors are pretty simple internally. It should be good little motor to practice on. If the body is as clean as you say it is, I would go ahead and rebuild it now even though it might not need it. This could be one of those trucks with a million miles on it if you start with a fresh rebuilt motor, plus you can do all the common performance mods while your at it.

stormin94

Hell, if you're gonna take it apart, you might as well check on everything else too, while you're in there. You might want to consider doing a valve job.

chroad

If you've done that other work, then yeah, a rebuild on this should be easy. But I sure understand you wanting to have it operational by snowfly but wanting to take your time.

Regarding the compression, what are accepted values of compression in the 22RE? I know I've seen it before, but I've forgotten. Is the low end 120psi? My engine checked at 205-205-200-198 about two months ago, which is a good deal higher than ~150.

InternetRoadkill

What's your budget?

jmazoso

I just had to rebuild my 84, I had a head gasket leak, but it didn't show up in the usual places. no oil in antifreze, compression ok, oil was ok when drained, no white smoke. Took it to a shop and had them check the radiator for exhaust gases. took them all of 5 minutes, and it showed that I had tons of exhaust in my coolant. When I pulled the head, I had beaks in the head gasket in 3 out of 4.

mountaingoat

Ugh...good to know. That answers the question of head gasket or no, for me anyway. Might as well do it.

Re: my budget: pretty flexible. I have about $1200 readily on hand that's available for this project, and a few weeks wait time can get me more if needed.

Re: compression stats: I think I recall that minimum is around 120, so in that measure I'm doing ok - but I don't know what I should expect ideally, so if anyone does I'd like to know.

At this point, I'm leaning towards these two options:

1. Leave engine in vehicle, do head gasket/timing chain/and other as needed

or

2. remove engine & trans. Do timing chain, head gasket, maybe new head, clutch, freeze plug if needed, rings and pistons just because, and various seals, bearings, etc. Basically, a total teardown/rebuild.

Thanks for suggestions so far...

--Johnny

mountaingoat

Well, it's decided...I'm replacing the head gasket, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, and related paraphernalia.

I've got everything off over the weekend, and I'm waiting on parts now.

The #4 cylinder is pretty fouled with something - maybe from the leaking head gasket??

Pretty happy with how the job is going so far. Nothing broken yet...knock on wood. Hopefully it goes back together as easily as it came apart...

I'm planning to order engnbldr's head gasket set - I've already got his timing set. Is there anything else I should get at the same time?

84sr5yoty

It's easier to replace the timing components and gaskets with the motor out of the truck. If you have the motor out of the truck, then you might as well completely rebuild the engine and replace the clutch components. If the tranny/transfer case is making any noises, now is then time get those repaired to.

Yep, you'll quickly find out that a simple rebuild will quickly add up for a job to be completely done correctly.

mountaingoat

Agreed.

I'm planning to do the full rebuild thing in the next 12 months - this is the short-term fix to get me through the next few months. Sure, it's almost as much work as a full rebuild, but I want to have more time for the rebuild than I feel like I have right now.

Assuming parts arrive on time, I should be a long way toward getting this done by the end of next weekend.

BluYot

From what I've heard for compression on the 22RE standard is 171psi and a minimum of 128psi. I had a compression check done 6mo. ago and with 323,000kms on the ol'22RE it was 170psi all four. Pretty amazing...the mech. was floored and kept laughing..."you should treat her to some red wine or something"...obviously joking. Those numbers are from Haynes and Toyota here says it should be 173-175. Maybe check the FSM to be sure. Hope that helps.

mountaingoat

Thanks - that does help.

I'm planning to wait on rings/pistons and so on till next summer, when I'll have a little more time to play with it.

On a side note, I have a possible line on a 22r motor just waiting to be rebuilt...I'm contemplating bringing that into the heated part of the garage, and working it over this winter. Then I'd swap 'em out in the spring.

That way there's plenty of time to mess around with it, and get it exactly the way I want it before putting it in the truck. Plus, I'd have full use of the truck with the current motor while I was working on it.

n4ynu1010

Thats a good idea