Cylinder head for '87 4x4 question
02-10-2009, 08:28 PM
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Cylinder head for '87 4x4 question
Guys please forgive me if this has been covered before. I searched and didn't find what I was looking for.
What year heads will fit an '87 22r? About a year ago, when I bought this truck, I read where sometime around '85 the height of the head changed or something and you can't interchange across that year. If anyone knows the specifics on this it would be greatly appreciated. Just got my head off tonight and the #2 combustion chamber is cracked into the water jacket so I'm in dire need of a head.
Thanks
What year heads will fit an '87 22r? About a year ago, when I bought this truck, I read where sometime around '85 the height of the head changed or something and you can't interchange across that year. If anyone knows the specifics on this it would be greatly appreciated. Just got my head off tonight and the #2 combustion chamber is cracked into the water jacket so I'm in dire need of a head.
Thanks
02-10-2009, 09:02 PM
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make sure the new or used head you buy has pear shaped exhast ports the older 22r block will be round. I went through the same thing with my old 87 i found a head for 50 bucks and slammed it on but about a year later the gasket went bad again so I bought a reman head and its been going strong for over 5 years now.
02-10-2009, 09:12 PM
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Thanks for the info. Thinking of going with a reman myself. A friend has a good head that came out of an '85 but that doesn't mean the engine isn't several years older. If I can't use it I'll probably get a reman.
02-10-2009, 09:21 PM
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I think it is 85. Before that, the deck was different. You can get a brand new cylinder head complete with valves, springs, retainer, cam, and gaskets for around $300 shipped on Ebay.
02-11-2009, 11:41 AM
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Engines changed over late 84. So, any 85 and above 22R will work. Quick check, the old 22R(E) had a vacuum advance distributor. So if it has that, it's the wrong motor.
02-12-2009, 07:58 PM
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Well, my friends engine must be a mix between early and late. It has pear shaped exhaust ports but doesn't have the "bow-tie" on the lower left. It also has the newer water pump with the "dip" across the top, not the older one that is straight across the top. Guess I'm off to hunt a reman.
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02-12-2009, 08:12 PM
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I knew a guy that mixed and match the newer head with the older block, he is a machinists so I remember him saying somting about shaving the head to make the deck height work for the chain or something like that.
Good luck to you!
Sounds like a PITA, personally I would figure out what the PO did and correct his modification.
I found this from engnbldr about your situation:
Good luck to you!
Sounds like a PITA, personally I would figure out what the PO did and correct his modification.
I found this from engnbldr about your situation:
*Morning!
Wow, I actually got this site open on my dialup system! Of course it took three cups of coffee but that's ok.
There sure is a lot of confusion on the year changes but I see lots of you have it right.
I gave up on the serial numbers, now I just use my tape measure, or look closely at the side of the block for that bow tie shaped pad on the 1985 and later.
The early block is 11.280" tall, the late one is 11.090" tall. 1981 to 1984 is early, 1985 and up is late but watch out for the 20R, those pop up regularly.
It seems that these engines have been swapped around, changed over, had things bolted on that don't belong, on and on and on. But the tape measure doesn't lie.
Between the early and late the only things that interchange for sure are the rod bearing inserts, the head gasket, and the freeze plugs.
Yes, early is 98 link, put one of those chains on a late engine and start it and she will let you know...Late is 96 link. Even more fun is the 1981 to 1982 is a dual full roller, all the rest are single. But don't count on that, hundreds of the very early engines have been converted to the dual roller, and lots of late engines have been converted to the aftermarket dual $$etup...
Yep. Tape measure, works every time....*EB
Wow, I actually got this site open on my dialup system! Of course it took three cups of coffee but that's ok.
There sure is a lot of confusion on the year changes but I see lots of you have it right.
I gave up on the serial numbers, now I just use my tape measure, or look closely at the side of the block for that bow tie shaped pad on the 1985 and later.
The early block is 11.280" tall, the late one is 11.090" tall. 1981 to 1984 is early, 1985 and up is late but watch out for the 20R, those pop up regularly.
It seems that these engines have been swapped around, changed over, had things bolted on that don't belong, on and on and on. But the tape measure doesn't lie.
Between the early and late the only things that interchange for sure are the rod bearing inserts, the head gasket, and the freeze plugs.
Yes, early is 98 link, put one of those chains on a late engine and start it and she will let you know...Late is 96 link. Even more fun is the 1981 to 1982 is a dual full roller, all the rest are single. But don't count on that, hundreds of the very early engines have been converted to the dual roller, and lots of late engines have been converted to the aftermarket dual $$etup...
Yep. Tape measure, works every time....*EB
02-13-2009, 02:57 PM
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You CAN swap the heads back and forth, but it's not easy, or beneficial
If I go with at reman head what are the chances of blowing the rings because of the new head?
02-13-2009, 04:51 PM
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I had a whole dissertation about this and that and smog and... who cares?
If it is in FACT an 87 block, you already know which cylinder heads will fit: late 85 and up, irregardless of 22R or 22RE. Earlier heads MAY fit (they will bolt up) but they WILL be more hassle- compression ratios, etc.
Do what you will.
If it is in FACT an 87 block, you already know which cylinder heads will fit: late 85 and up, irregardless of 22R or 22RE. Earlier heads MAY fit (they will bolt up) but they WILL be more hassle- compression ratios, etc.
Do what you will.
02-13-2009, 05:04 PM
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My head has the pear shaped exhaust ports and casting on the block just like the engine in the pick above. I'm not going to try to make a an older head work. All I want is a good head to to get my truck running again.
My concern with a new or reman head is that the compression will go up and (just because it is new) and blow the rings. I had this happen on a Chevy 350 a long time ago.
My concern with a new or reman head is that the compression will go up and (just because it is new) and blow the rings. I had this happen on a Chevy 350 a long time ago.
02-13-2009, 08:14 PM
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unless the bottom end has had higher compression pistons installed, there is not going to be an issue with the head.
This is not a SB chevy where milling the head boosts CR's for every mm taken off.
If you want a good head, http://engbldr.com. And you can get some perf work done as well- nothing that'll break the bank or the engine... check out their other stuff.
This is not a SB chevy where milling the head boosts CR's for every mm taken off.
If you want a good head, http://engbldr.com. And you can get some perf work done as well- nothing that'll break the bank or the engine... check out their other stuff.
02-14-2009, 07:49 PM
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Thanks for the link. I'm giving up the hunt for a used head and ordering a new one the first of the week. The truck needs to get back on the road. I miss it. I've got another new vehicle to drive but I just like the little Toy.
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