Spudenater

So, I noticed while doing a once over of my brakes that my left (drivers) inner CV boot is torn partially, and is now leaking grease all over the place. I've located a replacement from Napa for $16(+S&H) , but I'm busy, and I don't have alot of time to fiddle around with all of this junk. It seems, by looking at the Haynes manual, that you basically have to dis-assemble the entire deal to get to replace that boot. Is that true? Are there any alternatives (not temp. fixes)? How much might is cost to have someone do it at a shop? Any advice and info is appreciated, thanks.

EDIT: Okay, looks like both boots are torn. The right (passengers) is WAY torn, and now full of debris. So now I need 2 boots. Also, what damage my have been caused by debris in the CV joint? I don't think it's been like that too long, but dirt is dirt, you know?

marsbike

From what I understand, you might as well just replace the whole thing instead of just the boot. That'd be a good fix

PismoJoe

They always tear....better get this procedure down because you WILL be doing it again haha

Teuf

Replace the whole thing, then what of the other side. I had to do mine, but the Rancho lift prevented the axle from sliding out. The spindle had to be removed. Had my mechanic do it. It was winter and I could have only done it outside.

Matt4Running

X2 what marsbike said,replace both CV shafts.Price I got here was 400$ to replace both at my local mechanic.They only tear if you offroad or they are old and dry rotted.One of mine is torn after 20 years,other one is fine.

Wrenchinjoe

A remanufactured cv axle will cost you about $60 after you return your core. If you replace only your boots, you save only $30 and you are still running old joints with lots of miles. So get a fresh set of cv joints out of the deal, it takes less time, and you also end up with a lifetime warranty on the remanned axle.

Also, buy remanufactured not "new" cv axles because the remanned ones use Toyota axle shafts. Cardone cv axles have always worked great for me.

Getting the axle out is not too bad, search the forum and you will find that although it is a tight squeeze, the flange bolts are TIGHT, and the cone washers in the hubs can be a PITA, you can get the entire cv axle out and back in without removing suspension or needing any special tools. There are a couple of tricks to it, I did both mine in an afternoon.

Good luck.

Spudenater

Well, word's come down the line from the bosses (parents) that we're going to fix it, "... And then sell it before something else breaks...". So that's that... :c (

shaeff

Rebuilding CV axles is pretty easy. They're all basically the same concept. I just rebuilt both CV's on my '95 M3. I gutted them, repacked them with RedLine CV2 grease (awesome stuff!), new boots, all new crimp boot clamps, and reinstalled. They look damn near brand new.

If/when the CV boots on my Pickup tear (so far so good @ 170k), I'll rebuild them if I don't put the solid axle in first. Here's a few pics, incase anyone wants some reference. Keep in mind that these are BMW axles:















On the BMW axles, the outer CV is not removable, so I doused it in brake cleaner and blew it out with the air compressor. Let it dry in the sun for a while, repacked, put on outer boot first (only way to do outer boot is w/ inner CV taken apart), clamp boot down, set up inner CV all packed with grease, install that in the carrier with the boot on first, pack more grease, install, tap down w/ mallet, c-clip, close it up it's done.

I'd imagine the Toyota CV's are at least similar.

87hillbillyoter

how much did your mechanic charge you?

Teuf

Dang I forget, he did some other things too?

87hillbillyoter

ah ok then

BullGator

I just discovered my outer boot is dry rotted and is now ripped and leaking grease. I just bought the replacement boot before doing more research on replacing it. My manual hubs will allow me to make the 150 mile drive back home from school. Anyone used the "CV boot cone" technique to replace the boot without removing the whole axle? Any tips

TylerH

I would just buy new axles also, by the time you relize there leaking they are more like toast. Plus thats a big sign there old. If you go about replacing the boot i would take them to your personal mechanic and have him do it. He should have the tool and more metal bands.

shaeff

Tyler, I'd like to respectfully disagree with you. BullGator has manual hubs, so chances are that the axles have very little wear on them and really just need new boots. I'll take OEM Toyota axles over crappy aftermarket axles any day of the week.

That being said, I wonder if Toyota makes a boot/strap kit for them. I'd imagine they do or did at some point.

PS- Tyler- if you were talking about the CV shafts on a Subaru, or on an ADD truck I could maybe agree, but still would rather replace just the boots.

scope103

Autozone sells "boot kits" (boot, band, grease) for $9.99 to $29.99. They sell remanufactured half-shafts for $59.99. So rebuilding your half-shaft will save you between $40 and $0.

I've rebuilt three of these in the past, but I won't again. Replacing the boots is not technically difficult, but it is a thankless, messy (greasy) job. Also, you need a special tool to install the bands (not included in the kit) -- and there are at least two different types of band (so don't get the tool before you see the band!)

What if you only have to replace one? The most common one to leak is the outer, and you have to remove the inner to get to the outer. So you'll end up replacing them both whether you want to or not.

Like to do everything yourself? Don't mind buying tools you'll only use once? Think you look good with grease up past your elbows? Then rebuild your own, and enjoy the feeling of accomplishment.

TylerH

The reason i think they could be toast is most people dont inspect there axles often so it may have been flinging grease for months. If its just a hairline crack then thats a differnt story. Maybe there not even OEM?

I was swapping an engine in a civic a few years back and baught new axles for both sides and when i was installing i ripped the axle boot. I went to napa and bought a boot, the band and some hitemp/presure grease. (you will need, its $$$) Took it to my mechanic at the time and had him do it. I talked to him afterwards about how he did it and he said one of the most handy tools to have when doing it was a lead hammer.

Im sure you can get all the info on how to do it from this site or google. Good luck and dont forget the go-jo hand cleaner from the parts store.

toyota4x4907

OEM CV Reboot kit from TOYOTA dealership- $50. Inner and outer boot, both kinds of grease. all 4 straps you need. New snap rings.
Took me all of 2 hours to do the first time I did them. Its easy. Dont need any special tools besides snap ring pliers. The most time consuming part was getting the axle out. Easiest to unbolt the lower ball joint.

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Ive been running busted boots for about a year now without any problems. I have factory toyota boots & grease but never got around to it. Maybe next week...

TNRabbit

DO NOT replace your fine OEM axles with those crappy $60 axles!!!! Rebuilding Yota axles is always lreferable unless you've destroyed them (you haven't).

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

^ and thats exactly why i got the boots in the first place. I have manual locking hubs and the 4wd was rarely used so they are prettt much still new.