SoulPole

Alright, I did search, promise. I have finally gotten around to replacing my cv axles on my project I aquired last year, being a '92 4Runner SR5. The trouble I am having is with the passenger side axle...you see, the outer end is broken from the hub, so when I try to loosen the nuts from the diff end, the shaft spins. I've tried a pipe wrench on the shaft, two pipe wrenches, vise grips, etc, etc. They seem to wiggle loose, or shift no matter what...I could use a third hand I guess. Is there a way I can lock the truck into 4x4 that would keep that side from turning or with it being open (I assume) not be possible? I did take the the hub off, which are stock, auto hubs.

After seeing what I've seen, I'm going to rebuild the whole front end...damn hacks piss me off. This is ultimately going to be a daily driver, that sees SOME camping trips and trail use. I plan on keeping it pretty much stock, as they are more than capable for what I do in stock form. I will probably do the manual hub conversion/ADD fork fix while I'm at it. Good idea? I'm open to suggestions and ideas...especailly on that axle removal. More so keeping it from turning when I try to loosen the nuts on the diff side. Oh, I do realize they are splined bolts. So thats not the issue. Thanks for any and all help.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

dude that sucks. I've been there and when the shoe was on my foot i just cut/grinded the bolts off. That being said, i didn't have access to a nice impact gun at the time and with the knowledge i have now i would try the impact first and start cutting/grinding as a last resort. You can replace the hard ware that fastens the cv's to the diff but you'll have to hammer out the bolts since they are pressed on. It's a common mod for the ifs front ends but it seems as though it might be a necessity in your case. Look at wabfab's website and if i'm not mistaken he has a kit to replace the bolts in that flange. If he doesn't i'm sure you can find some grade 8 hardware that will suffice at the hard ware store. Good luck man and when getting really frustrated just walk away before you start breaking stuff.

Ardent

I used a 2x4 from the ground to the bottom the the CV to hold it in place. The CV at the diff has cutouts on it that allow you to wedge the 2x4 in.

I know it's hard to visualize, but what it does is transfer the torque straight down via the 2x4 and lets you wrench on those bolts.

Worked for me, but was definitely a pain in the butt.

HTH

SoulPole

Thanks MightyMouse. I've walked away as many times as I'm going to at this point...I'm going right to the angle grinder and cut off wheel next time I get a chance to work on it. So far, as I posted on another guys thread, but don't want to jack it; I've tried an impact on low as to "work" the corrision loose, on high to break stuff...I've done the liquid wrench soak, heat with a torch, straight up breaker bar...my probelm being I can't get any ass on it because the dang things comes free at some point. I can only get maybe, 40-50 lb. ft on it, if that. I'll look into the WabFab kit...but I'll probably buy stocke replacement studs from the dealer, just because.

Ardent

yeah, 40-50 ft lbs won't break them. I estimate mine took close to 150-180 ft lbs to break loose.

SoulPole

This is all I needed to read and I knew JUST what you meant. Thanks a lot...thats just perfect, I tend to over think stuff. So simple, so effective. I'll let you know how it goes after this weekend. I owe you a beer, sir.

tried4x2signN

this?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

yeah tried i think that's what he's talking about.

SoulPole

The other end..if the wheel were on the ground, it would be a non issue..IF the shaft wasn't broken on the outer end. Ardent supplied a GREAT idea that should work prefectly. Thanks for such quick replies fellas.

<edit> I'll wedge a piece of 2x4 in one of those flange indents/notches and go to the ground with it. Perfect!