Crossover eliminator for 3.0.
#1
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Crossover eliminator for 3.0.
I'm gonna have one fabbed up for my build and am wondering what kind of interest there is out there for more. I'm not looking to get rich or anything of these just wondering who would be interested in getting one.
This would basicly be a Y-pipe and a block off plate for the stock manifolds. 2" to 2.25 with maybe an o2 bung. I still have to work out how I'm gonna build it but the design it pretty simple and it will get rid on the stock crossover.
I don't know how much power this will free up but it will deffinately free up some. On the 3vzfe its usually worth ~10hp with headers being worth less then 5. If enough people are interested I'll do mine and take it to the dyno to see what its worth.
Initially I'm thinking the cost will be $180-$200USD with true mandrel bends and a flex section to make installation easier. Not the cheepest I know but bolt on, cheeper then headers. and gets rid of the crossover gasses coming into the manifold and onto cyl 6. The more I can have made the cheeper each one gets I'd like to get it down to $150 if I can.
let me know if there is interest and I'll put together a group buy.
This would basicly be a Y-pipe and a block off plate for the stock manifolds. 2" to 2.25 with maybe an o2 bung. I still have to work out how I'm gonna build it but the design it pretty simple and it will get rid on the stock crossover.
I don't know how much power this will free up but it will deffinately free up some. On the 3vzfe its usually worth ~10hp with headers being worth less then 5. If enough people are interested I'll do mine and take it to the dyno to see what its worth.
Initially I'm thinking the cost will be $180-$200USD with true mandrel bends and a flex section to make installation easier. Not the cheepest I know but bolt on, cheeper then headers. and gets rid of the crossover gasses coming into the manifold and onto cyl 6. The more I can have made the cheeper each one gets I'd like to get it down to $150 if I can.
let me know if there is interest and I'll put together a group buy.
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Jamescurl (12-29-2020)
#5
I'm not sure what exactly you mean by crossover.
If you mean the exhaust stacks that run together so that one creates a vacuum inside the other so it removes more exhaust from the cylinder, then I have an Idea of what you mean. I've heard those kinds of systems only work at very high RPM's Anyways I might also be interested if the switch is easy and you can explain why I should do it.
If you mean the exhaust stacks that run together so that one creates a vacuum inside the other so it removes more exhaust from the cylinder, then I have an Idea of what you mean. I've heard those kinds of systems only work at very high RPM's Anyways I might also be interested if the switch is easy and you can explain why I should do it.
#6
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The crossover connects the passenger side exhaust manifold to the drivers side exahust manifold. What you are thinking about are called headers and they can be tuned to work at any rpm pending your goals.
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#8
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you want a crossover delete because if you look at how the exhaust system is set up from toyota the passenger's side exhaust all dumps into the drivers side bank right nextto the #6 exhaust port. The Exhaust down pipe eminates from the drivers side exhaust manifold btwn #4 and #6 exhaust port, so your #6 cylinder sees some higher than normal heat.
This causes blown headgaskets, burnt valves, and a significant loss in hp.
The oem cross over also apparently has an expansion chamber in it....
This causes blown headgaskets, burnt valves, and a significant loss in hp.
The oem cross over also apparently has an expansion chamber in it....
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#12
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#13
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The more I think about it the more I favor a y pipe that runs simular to the stock setup without the expansion chamber or dumping into the driver's side manifold. Main reasons being:
-No heat on starters
-No burnt floor mats
-No risk of rock rash (these are 4x4's after all)
-Cheeper to produce
-Easy to retain stock o2 location.
-No heat transfer to tranny
-Overall better us of space.
I really don't see any major negatives to this plan and it would bring the cost down from the ~$200 range to probably the $150 or less range (depending entirely on the cost of parts of course).
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well, post a pic of your contrary info. I'm skeptical. But I guess anything's possible. I would post a pic, but I dropped mine in the trash a month or two ago. Mine was a woven steel flex tube wrapped in insulation and encased in what might "look" like an expansion chamber. There is a thin stainless heat shield around it. I discovered the flex pipe when I put the whole thing in my chop saw. I bet money, you'd find the same with yours.
Last edited by AlaskaToy; 11-15-2006 at 06:23 PM.
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#17
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The more I think about it the more I favor a y pipe that runs simular to the stock setup without the expansion chamber or dumping into the driver's side manifold. Main reasons being:
-No heat on starters
-No burnt floor mats
-No risk of rock rash (these are 4x4's after all)
-Cheeper to produce
-Easy to retain stock o2 location.
-No heat transfer to tranny
-Overall better us of space.
I really don't see any major negatives to this plan and it would bring the cost down from the ~$200 range to probably the $150 or less range (depending entirely on the cost of parts of course).
#18
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Thread Starter
well, post a pic of your contrary info. I'm skeptical. But I guess anything's possible. I would post a pic, but I dropped mine in the trash a month or two ago. Mine was a woven steel flex tube wrapped in insulation and encased in what might "look" like an expansion chamber. There is a thin stainless heat shield around it. I discovered the flex pipe when I put the whole thing in my chop saw. I bet money, you'd find the same with yours.
#19
Its not an expansion chamber like a two stroke uses. It is an expansion joint that allows the crossover pipe to expand and contract under heat and cold without putting pressure on the manifolds to damage them.
#20
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