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| 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS |
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#1 (permalink) | ||||
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crankshaft pulley-a little help please
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'89 pickup 4x4 22re extended cab '87 4runner 22re SOLD '99 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Crew Cab 4X4 Flatbed Dually 6 speed manual with locking hubs Don't nock the picture of my finger...it is a battle wound from working on my Toyota pickup |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#3 (permalink) |
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93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG KM2, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Try wrapping an old bicycle tire around the pulley first and then use a pair of chain-grip vice pliers to hold it in place while you tighten it up.
Troy
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'95 4WD 22R-E 4Runner, 5spd, 242k kms, 4.56 gears, extended diff breather mod, bilstein shocks, Aisin manual hub swap, 1.25 rear coil spacer, 32" BFG's -- my DD |
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#5 (permalink) |
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To tighten and loosen I simply used the brakes. Put the tranny in 5th, then cut a board, 2"x1"x24" and put that between the brake pedal and that spot just in front of the drivers seat(there's a little hump there). This is assuming that the driveline is still intact.
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Logan aka: BBP Kiss my IFS. RB4R-VP. '86 4Runner SR5 TRD 5VZ-FE ...slightly modified from OEM... PACK IN, PACK OUT '06 4Runner Sport 270/65R17 BFG AT's |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I did it with the front pulley off the balancer and you can see slots around the crank bolt. Put a pry bar in one of the slots and hold it still and torque with the other hand. Just be sure not to stick the bar in too far or you bend the dust shield for the front seal.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Wrap several rags around the crank pulley and just hold it in place with a chain wrench.
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#8 (permalink) |
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thanks guys
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'89 pickup 4x4 22re extended cab '87 4runner 22re SOLD '99 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Crew Cab 4X4 Flatbed Dually 6 speed manual with locking hubs Don't nock the picture of my finger...it is a battle wound from working on my Toyota pickup |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I did something very similar to what MT Goat did. It just doesn't look as nice. I just used a piece of steel and cut a big hole at one end and drilled 4 other holes around the big hole. Bolt it to where the PS pulley bolts to the crank pulley, and use the other end of the peice of steel as a lever. Works fantastic, but still required some muscle.
Something I whipped up on AutoCAD a while ago:
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#10 (permalink) |
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ill be the jacka$$ and tell you my way - i take no credit for what you break thou -- I lock a breaker bar under the edge of the frame rail and use a 12 dollar bump starter that rolls the starter ever so slowly -- never had an issue yet -- granted i cant tell you how tight it is - but i can promise mine wont be coming off for ya
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95 4runner 2wd 3.0 v6 Downey headers (dont buy them) Downey 2 1/2" full exhaust/Carsound cat Weasy2k cams/ENGNBLDR's o/s valves ported and polished heads/intake New project- 94 4runner V6 4x4 A/T 3" 4Crawler BL on order 33x12.5 BFG A/T's on 15x8 Cragar Black Steel Wheels 90 4runner 4x4 3vze Auto parting out - let me know if you need anything! 85 4runner, SFA, 22re, 5speed parting out |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Place a big box-end wrench on the cam sprocket bolt and rest it against the top of the head on the driver's side. Tighten away.
EDIT: Forgot - be sure you put something like a rag between the head and wrench to keep the valve cover mating surface intact.
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94' Pickup |
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#12 (permalink) |
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FYI, I think there is some confusion here... the original question was about the crankshaft bolt, but some of the answers have dealt with the camshaft sprocket bolts.
The tool linked to on ebay will work for the camshaft sprocket bolts, but not the crankshaft (to my understanding, at least). I'm pretty much counting on the manual transmission option (i.e. put it in 5th, engage the brakes, and torque away) that several people on this and other threads have recommended for my crankshaft bolt. I'll be finding out today or tomorrow whether that works. If not, I'm going to have to find someone around here with a welder and throw something together. As far as the camshaft sprocket bolts, I ordered this tool: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch96800.html I haven't used it yet, but I'm really impressed with the apparent quality level of it. It looks like it'll make the job of putting the camshaft sprockets back on (and taking them off next time) a piece of cake. Jason |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Is there actually a tool made by Toyota for this? I know in the FSM, they always show a picture and call it "SST". Is that just their general name for a specialized tool?
Rob
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1988 Xtra Cab Pickup ('94 22RE; 4x4; 5spd) Rancho lift w/ 33x12.5x15 tires & 5.29s - SOLD January 2010 - |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Yup there sure is:
SST(Special Service Tools): 09213-70010, 09330-00021, 09213-31021
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Logan aka: BBP Kiss my IFS. RB4R-VP. '86 4Runner SR5 TRD 5VZ-FE ...slightly modified from OEM... PACK IN, PACK OUT '06 4Runner Sport 270/65R17 BFG AT's |
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#15 (permalink) |
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There are 2 SST's that work together for this:
1. A generic handle that attaches to a bunch of different application-specific SSTs 2. A specific ring-shaped SST that bolts onto the harmonic balancer to allow a person to hold it or brace it while bring the crankshaft bolt up to spec. While I was searching for a solution (before I found out about how to do it with a manual tranny), I was able to find a source for the handle, but not for the specific ring-shaped SST. If it doesn't work to use the transmission to provide resistance (or if I didnt' have a manual), I'd just be finding a way to make a tool. I don't think it would be too difficult... it would just require a ring with bolt holes spaced correctly and a long handle for leverage. Jason |
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#16 (permalink) |
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People are addressing the camshaft bolt as a point where you can hold the crank steady (timing chain). When a wrench is holding the cam steady, the crank will not turn when tightening...
BTW, those SST's are not worth the money by a long shot. Dealers charge hundreds.
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94' Pickup Last edited by all_terrain17; 01-31-2007 at 10:39 AM. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Oops, my bad. I didn't notice that he's got the 22RE... I'm dealing with the same issue, but on the 3VZ-E, which has a belt that isn't supposed to be used in that way.
Sorry. ![]() So (for my own curiosity's sake)... on the 22RE, the timing chain is strong enough to be used to resist the torque spec of the crankshaft bolt? Jason |
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#18 (permalink) |
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LOL, np. I managed to get the crank tightened using that method so I guess
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94' Pickup |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Oops, thanks for correcting me on that Jason, I'll delete that link. I didn't notice the "cam" and was just thinking "crank"
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93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG KM2, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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| Tags |
| 09213, 0921370010, 22re, 70010, bolt, crank, crankshaft, pulley, removal, service, shaft, special, sst, supra, tighten, tool, tools, torque, toyota |
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