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Before you put TOOOO much effort into this, use your new impact / compressor setup to see if you can take off your lug nuts. They're only 86 ft-lbs (if installed correctly; you do use a torque wrench when rotating your tires, don't you?), so if you have any trouble there you know you won't get anywhere with the crank pulley bolt.
I have the same impact wrench, and I think it is excellent (but I have a little bigger compressor). I still don't think it can push as hard as I can with my arms.
Ok i got the impact wrench but its poring rain so I will see what tomorrow brings. But i think with my compress it will only get up 4 sec burst with the air tool. 3 gallon = 0.401042 Cubic feet and with average air consumption of 6 CFM I'm thinking at best i will get 4 seconds of tool time between are compressor refills.
That should still work even is i have to wait between refills right?
That will probably be all you need. I don't think that impact puts out 700ft lbs but it should be enough.
I wouldn't heat it unless you have to. Try the impact first.
No Joy here. Got the impact wrench and added a 3/8 inch hose to the compressor. It Hits hard for about 4-5 sec then the compress kicks on. Im now starting to see metal flakes, I think it is from the bolt.
I have used propane torch and freezing with a dust buster when the heat alone did not work. also 3x every day its been hit with pb blaster
I want back and got a chain strap wrench and used the breaker 25in bar and broke the chain wrench and smashed the ever living hack out of my finger..
So what now cutting? I have noticed a dent at the top of the flange what about beating it with a chisel and hammer before i try cutting the flange?
If i just gouge the flange will that help at all?
Its staring to round and im getting worried.
Im just about ready to take out a loan to fund my swear jar.
Did you do that with a 19mm impact socket?
I think you may want to call a local machine shop and ask for advice. I've never seen a crank bolt do that. I would think they would be harder than that.
Remember, heating the bolt makes it tighter in the hole by expanding the metal the bolt is made of. Heat the bolt then let it cool, do this several times to possibly get it a bit looser in the bolt hole. Do not try to remove the bolt when it is hot, that only compounds the problem. You may try to put the breaker bar on the crank bolt then attach the other end of the breaker bar to the spring/frame with a bungee cord and then spin the engine over with the starter. That may break it loose. I don't think you have enough air pressure for the impact to work. Too small a compressor.
Wow, I hadn't seen the picture before my last post. That bolt head is buggered up big time. You may have to use a hammer and cold chisel on the flange to get it off now.
Ok a few answers.
yes it was a 19mm impact socket.
I think the damage happen after trying to bump start it it came off a few times.
as of right now a 19mm impact socket will still grab and not slip.
But the impact is starting to flake metal bits.
I want to harbor freight and returned it and picked up some chisels. I'm going to try and spin it off that way. cutting has a lot of risk of me damaging the harmonic balancer and that will be the last straw.
you need a bigger compressor, that little thing doesn't have enough air. i would try that before i completely screwed the head up on that bolt with chisels. i would also take a torch to it first to heat it up, even a handheld plumping type torch will work, less than $20 from home depot.
You say you tried the starter and it wouldn't budge it. A good starter with good battery is probably capable of applying 400-500 ft-lbs to the crankshaft, so it's tighter than that. I'm thinking you need 3/4" drive tools - either a 3/4" impact or a 4 foot 3/4" breaker bar. You may need to weld a socket to the bolt/flange to keep it from slipping further.
The suggestion to take it to a machine shop where they have adequate equipment is not a bad one. Probably cost less than tooling up for this yourself at the level this project is going to take.
I'm with scope103 in skepticism of the capabilities of a cheap HF impact wrench. I have a cheapie I bought from Lowes, presumably rated at 300 ft-lbs. I can easily break bolts loose with an 18" breaker bar that it won't budge, even at 120 psi air input. My guess is it can barely achieve 150 ft-lbs.
Wow, I hadn't seen the picture before my last post. That bolt head is buggered up big time. You may have to use a hammer and cold chisel on the flange to get it off now.
Another vote for the chisel !
That flange style bolt has a very sturdy built-in washer head....perfect for a squared-off chisel. The chisel should be ground down to a flat spot .....like a 1/8" wide runway. Then chisel at the "best" angle with a larger than typical hammer. Hammer should have some weight behind it......bet it comes off after 5 hits if the hits are well placed. Note----a new sharp chisel will dig in TOO well and will simply remove large chunks of flange.
Another vote for the chisel !
That flange style bolt has a very sturdy built-in washer head....perfect for a squared-off chisel. The chisel should be ground down to a flat spot .....like a 1/8" wide runway. Then chisel at the "best" angle with a larger than typical hammer. Hammer should have some weight behind it......bet it comes off after 5 hits if the hits are well placed. Note----a new sharp chisel will dig in TOO well and will simply remove large chunks of flange.
I don't know. This OP kinda sounds like a noob and not pulling the engine out seems to be one of the aims. Using a chisel and hammer takes real technique. I like the idea of welding a impact socket and removing it with a better impact and compressor. If he destroys the flange then what?
I think its time to call someone to help.
I don't know. This OP kinda sounds like a noob and not pulling the engine out seems to be one of the aims. Using a chisel and hammer takes real technique. I like the idea of welding a impact socket and removing it with a better impact and compressor. If he destroys the flange then what?
I think its time to call someone to help.
Hammer and chisel is ok for me I have done it many times in the past of projects as well as welding. been welding for 20+ years with my dad. ( Not a shop setting) but that was in California now im in NC.
Destroying the flange has no effect on this. Im getting a new bolt anyway. This bolt of bad and I would not cheapen out on a 20 dollar bolt.
As for not pulling the engine. Well I live in a apartment and my lease says Now working on vehicles so i have to keep all this hidden. Normally I would just pay to have this all done. But I have been screwed over left and right my mechanics ( Even the ones at AAA shops) The last one did a water pump on my suv and knocked a hole in my radiator and said "It can im that way" Bull crap I have a video of before and after. They replaced it but I don't want to deal with con men any more. I would rather junk this truck than deal with them. In fact the last front seal i had done is why this bolt is messed up.
Worst case is I buy a new bolt and harmonic balancer.
...
Worst case is I buy a new bolt and harmonic balancer.
Ummm ... worst case is probably breaking the bolt IN the crank.
But even a certified professional mechanic is going to have trouble with this one (can you imagine what they're thinking when first see the current condition of the bolt head?) So work carefully, work SAFELY, and think things through as you've done so far.
Wow I just found out i had the wrong tool. I was using a "Locking Chain Clamp from Harbor freight and broke it. What I need is a chain wrench, I thought what i had was a chain wrench. Well im off to buy the right tool and try again.
FYI the bolt just looks bad on the very end it still holds tight on to a 6 pint socket.
Ok so its rounded off now. It still hold enough to turn the engine but no force. Time to use the grinder and hammer or sledge hammer of "This is getting done to day
no mater what!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
Hammer and chisel is ok for me I have done it many times in the past of projects as well as welding. been welding for 20+ years with my dad. ( Not a shop setting) but that was in California now im in NC.
Destroying the flange has no effect on this. Im getting a new bolt anyway. This bolt of bad and I would not cheapen out on a 20 dollar bolt.
As for not pulling the engine. Well I live in a apartment and my lease says Now working on vehicles so i have to keep all this hidden. Normally I would just pay to have this all done. But I have been screwed over left and right my mechanics ( Even the ones at AAA shops) The last one did a water pump on my suv and knocked a hole in my radiator and said "It can im that way" Bull crap I have a video of before and after. They replaced it but I don't want to deal with con men any more. I would rather junk this truck than deal with them. In fact the last front seal i had done is why this bolt is messed up.
Worst case is I buy a new bolt and harmonic balancer.
I feel your pain. There are honest shops that do quality work, but they are distinctly the minority in the population. When I did my '89 22RE timing chain, I was a bit worried about the dreaded big capscrew removal. Turns out that shifted in to 4th gear, clutch released, parking brake set firmly and a healthy pull on a 25" 1/2 drive flexhandle and just came loose...California car (rust issues non-player) and history from new known (never removed since new).
I would just attack it with a cape chisel, or saw of some kind or grinder and buy a new damper... and screw, or get a good junkyard screw. Assuming you could get the screw loose, you still have to get the damper off. If the screw is rusted tight...how about the damper?
On mine I just "gently" tappped the damper off with a soft hammer. When reassembled...vibration... significant. New damper from rockauto (around sixty bucks if I remember right) and all is well 30,000 miles later...good luck!
This will work. Attach your breaker bar to the nut.. let it hang at a downward angle .. Put a floor jack under the breaker bar and jack the bar up until it comes loose.. I did this on my front end bolts, works great.. Not on the crankshaft pulley but the bolts were stuck eccentric bolts torqued to hell..
Hope it works good luck
Last edited by voiddweller; 10-03-2015 at 03:15 PM.
09-30-2015, 05:02 PM
