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Crank Bolt won't budge

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Old 12-24-2009, 05:44 PM
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Crank Bolt won't budge

So my 22re is out on a stand now, but so far I have tried...

The brake & breaker bar trick
The starter trick
18" breaker + 4' pipe
1/2 Milwaukee Impact
I've pounded on it, yelled at it and threatened it

Hasn't moved.

I've currently got the crank locked up on the engine stand, so it's not moving, but neither is the bolt.

I could sit on my breaker bar and not fear for it to move (well, unless the engine stand tipped, which it started to when i tried)

So, in one word, HELP!

I have to be back at school by the 10th so I really need to get the head and block in the shop by Monday (this is a full rebuild, btw)

Thanks & Merry Christmas!
Old 12-24-2009, 05:49 PM
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I did the starter trick last week on my 88 (had to replace the front crankshaft oil seal) and did it all by myself with a piece of string holding the breaker bar "up" to the passenger side of the frame instead of letting the bar rest on top of the drivers' side.

turning it the right way?
Old 12-24-2009, 05:51 PM
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Ya, the starter trick didn't work and I did try it. I'm supposed to be turning it to the left, right? It's standard thread?
Old 12-24-2009, 05:59 PM
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yep, standard threading, looking at the head of the bolt, the wrench goes counter-clockwise.

So, it's not moving and you need head work done, eh?

Pull the head and ship it off for the work.

Make a plate to bolt across a cylinder and do so- bolt the plate down with some rags inside the cylinder bore so that when you turn the crank the rags bunch up and keep the piston from travelling up and through TDC.
Old 12-24-2009, 06:01 PM
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I can't imagine the starter trick didn't work. Are you sure you had everything lined up right??
I have done that flawlessly on many 22r and 22re motors and never once had an issue.
Bump the ignition and it should spin the whole thing off, nut, socket and breakerbar should be lying in the dirt or concrete.
Old 12-24-2009, 06:04 PM
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I'm getting the block bored 20 over and hot tanked, so it needs to go in as well.
I've already got my rebuild kit (i had three weeks to complete everything, now i'm down to just over two).
I tried the starter trick several times and it didn't work. In any case, the engine is now out of the truck, so repeating that isn't an option.
I've got the crank locked up really good, it hasn't budged at all, but neither has the bolt.
Old 12-24-2009, 06:20 PM
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There should be a torch somewhere in the garage... any reason I shouldn't try that?
Old 12-24-2009, 06:27 PM
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you need this..
Old 12-24-2009, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by forwardtocharis
There should be a torch somewhere in the garage... any reason I shouldn't try that?
No particular reason for not trying it. The front oil seal is about the only thing you have to worry about up there, temp wise, and if you're rebuilding you should replace that anyways.

Last edited by abecedarian; 12-24-2009 at 06:39 PM.
Old 12-24-2009, 07:21 PM
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Air impact wrench? I have a flippin huge compressor.. anything in particular i need to know about what impact? or any pneumatic impact?
I'll dig out the torch in the next couple days.
Thanks for the help guys! (no progress yet, but i appreciate the ideas)
Old 12-24-2009, 07:26 PM
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get something with around 600ftlbs.. thatll show the bolt.
Old 12-24-2009, 07:48 PM
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or the bolt will show him when it snaps off... one of the two.
Old 12-24-2009, 07:52 PM
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haha either or, i have my spare engine on my stand to and got bored one day and took my impact to the crank bolt and it came out like butta
Old 12-24-2009, 07:54 PM
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How big of a impact are you using? The 1/2" harbor freight earthquake is rated for 625ftlb
I bought one after I almost broke my arm breaking loose the crank bolt on my 86 with a breaker bar and a chain warped around the frame and bolted to the pulley. I bent the grade 8 bolts I used and when it let go I felt the shock from my hands up to my shoulders and all the way to my teeth. The head was off so i couldn't use the starter trick.
Old 12-24-2009, 07:56 PM
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awh i know exactly what you are talking about, cannot stand when bolts dont move. but i know how u can get it off easier. put a blow torch on the bolt for about a minute, use the biggest breaker bar you have (or thatll fit) and jerk your weight on it... it should work. like when i did my exhaust i culdnt get any of the bolts even loose, but i put the flame on it and it was still a hard turn but it loosened it up just enough for me to turn em.
good luck!
Old 12-24-2009, 07:57 PM
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just a 1/2" IR one, works pretty. i get alot of use out of it at work and at home. used it at home tonight when rebuilding my idler arm. makes things faster.
Old 12-24-2009, 08:34 PM
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I've been using a corded electric Milwaukee impact, but i just pulled out the husky pneumatic; i don't know the ratings on either (the electric draws about 7 amps). I still haven't found the torch though.
I'll try tomorrow; it's a little late tonight to start up the compressor.
Old 12-24-2009, 10:31 PM
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If you're using a torch, don't get the harmonic balancer too hot. You'll kill it.

By "kill" it, I mean that you'll ruin it's damping properties, which could result in your new rebuild tearing itself apart from the inside out.
Old 12-24-2009, 10:39 PM
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Definitely try an air impact. I can't believe the starter trick didn't work though, i did it just by setting my torque wrench against the frame, done it a few times...
Old 12-25-2009, 08:03 AM
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I'm stuck with the same bolt not wanting to budge. I've tried the starter trick.. it didn't work for me. Probably because the battery is weak? I have an 18" breaker bar that I've been trying to get this loose.

I just tried a 24" breaker bar from Autozone. The truck is in 4th gear with the parking brake on. I'm now turning the motor backwards!?!?! I didn't have th leverage to do this before but this longer bar has better leverage.

Any ideas now on how to get the engine to not spin?

Last edited by cgeorge; 12-25-2009 at 08:12 AM.


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