70elcoss

I got a couple question about pulling my 3.0 which I hydrolocked. Everything is just about removed, just need my passenger side motor mounts which are a pain to reach, my exhaust, and the one electrical connection attach to the back of the AC compressor, how do I remove it??? It's all the way in the back and I'm considering cutting it and soldering it back when I have the motor out. I'm keeping the AC attached to the motor because it doesn't have any refrigerant in the system any way. Thanks guys, I'll post a link to my build thread too

70elcoss

Here's my build thread with pics
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ad-244259-new/
Oh and my other question was which would be the easiest way tO unbolt the passenger side motor mount? It's way crowded in that area

Schism64

Work smart my friend.
Pull the a/c compressor, if everything is out, the compressor is attached with 4 bolts and comes right out. Then remove the bracket from the block, and presto, full access to the passenger side motor mount!

92 TOY

^^^THIS

a/c and power steering pumps were firmly attached to the passenger's side fender area with tie-downs for our rebuild....try not to lay the p/s pump on it's side or at least be ready for what happens next (ask me why i know).

motor mounts are an absolute PITA...and so is the exhaust and the everything else. small bites, chew. swallow. take another bite until you have the whole thing done. I'm surprised you aren't cursing about the transmission to engine bolts. not sure how we contorted ourselves to get those off and back on....but we did.

good luck.

93toyrunner2

I just finished pulling mine and replacing it with a rebuilt unit. Pull the power steering pump off and attach to the fender out of the way (as 92 toy mentioned). Just above the pass side front tire, there is a small access panel with 4-5 10mm screws that can be removed. Also, pull the pass side front tire off (jack stand for safety) and then you can access the motor mount and the ac compressor bolts. For the ac bolts (4) I used an air wrench with a flex 12mm and a 16" extension and was able to angle the setup just right to get the bolts off. Putting them back on was a chore.
I unbolted the motor mounts from the frame, then removed them from the block after it was out!
Pulling the motor with the exhaust attached saved me hours of fighting with rusted and stripped out bolts. Just remove the cat, and the drop down exhaust pipe from the crossover, and pull the rest out with the motor. Reverse for re installation.

70elcoss

Thanks guys, I'm going to try and go finish up in a bit. Just woke up and it's nicE and sunny, yesterday it was pouring. The tranny bolts were actually a breeze, I did my clutch about 3 months ago so I had already pulled those bolts off haha just removetue crossmember so the trans drops a bit and they are pretty easy. Everything else was a breeze, only problem was with some stubborn electrical connectors that wouldn't want to disconnect themselves. I'll report back later with news

70elcoss

Oh and I think I'm going to end up having to cut my exhaust near the cat, the bolts that connect to the manifold are so rusted on, I've been spraying them with pb blaster since wednesday and still no luck, I'm going to try and take em off but I might have to cut the pipe and just clamp it back together later when the motor is back on

70elcoss

Well it's out and I found the problem lol.... I'll post pics up tonight but the only hint you get is that it is a greasy paperweight as of now hahaa

92 TOY

well, congrats, and curious as to what you are talking about.

70elcoss

it's out!

And now the little suprise I found behind the AC compressor

92 TOY

some JB weld an you're good to go.

wow. now i have to go back and re-read your 1st post ( i did, and, i guess that's a bad hydrolock)

Schism64

I can see daylight

70elcoss

Yea your right Lol it was a pretty bad hydrolock.... Here's what I found in the first cylinder after I pulled the upper intake plenum

that probably explains why the motor wouldn't crank over even with the plugs out. Gotta find a short block now and swap over my top end

Bassinfool

Oh man that's brutal. I hydrolocked a jet-ski one time and it blew a hole right through the top of the Piston head. It's unreal how that happens, but yeah, water doesn't compress too well...

70elcoss

ok so i found this long block for sale on craigslist for $750
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/2694202445.html
it sounds like its a good buy if it was fixed correctly, is there any things i could test or do to it if i check out the motor? i dont want to get stuck with another broken motor if im spending that much money on it

i was thinking a compression test but i have never done one before so how would i go about doing it?

JohnVH

chiming in late, but, just did two of these engines in the last week in my thread. For the pass engine mount, go through the wheel well and take the two bolts out of the mount where it connects to the truck.

For the AC, 4 bolts hold it to the bracket.

70elcoss

So I've been searching craigslist for the past week and I can't find much, Ive only found a couple people parting out trucks and neither of them are willing to sell just the motor. Ive seen in a bunch of other 3.0vs22re threads that people can't give away their 3.0! Well I'll gladly take one! Hahaha

If nothing comes up by tomorrow I'm going to start calling some pick-n-pulls to try and find a short block

maniacmotorsports

aint that some chit! I need to sell my 3.0 to help fund my 1uz swap but I am in Ohio and west coast would prob not be to cost effective to ship. can't get chit for them here and the 1uz's out here are either trash like Brims carries, or people think they are made of gold...with over 300k on them. I need to touch base with a girl trucker I know who is always out west...

Schism64

Idk, ya never know what you are going to get from a part out.
You think about buying a rebuilt short block?

70elcoss

Rebuilt short blocks cost too much, one place I found for $700+$300 core and I don't have a useable core lol