vsi1600

Just finished completely redoing the front suspension and installed 2 new CVs while I was at it. One was totally dead, the other was done just as a preventative, what the hell may as well, deal. (They are CHEAAAAP on on Rock Auto.)

I also changed the knuckle seal, and the installed an OEM seal from the dealer on the Rock Auto axle. The new knuckle seals from the dealer have a smaller outside diameter than the ones that come out, but the inside diameter is the same, and the seal itself is in the same place, so I think they just changed the design.

In any event, the snap ring groove doesn't stick out far enough to get the ring on. With the spacer out you can almost get the groove to show from the inside of the spindle, but still not quite...

What's wrong with these pictures?






OEM axle on the bottom. Cardone Select on top.

I'm running them right now without the snap ring. Unless I am missing something, this won't kill me unless the bolt that goes on after the freewheeling hub body shears off and something forces the axle in at the same time... but yeah, much less than ideal.

If you have any ideas, let me know. TIA

mfwimg82

are you sure the seal in the back is in all the way?

xxxtreme22r

make sure your bearings are also properly preloaded. You put new ones in right?

chubbydude

Yes you do need this clip on the CV's. This problem has nothing do to do with the wheel bearings. Did you put new inner/outer spindle bushings in? Use a prybar and put under the washer of the CV bolt and put some force to it. Rotate the CV to be sure your seals are seated. If you can then see "most of the groove", you can sand down the clip a tad to get it to fit. If you are still not getting enough of the groove to show, the seal you installed must be not seated or incorrect.

vsi1600

@ mfwimg82: The seal in the knuckle and the seal on the axle are definitely properly seated. I don't know whether or not the two seals are mated together properly. We pulled on the axle a ton but couldn't get it to move out enough to get the clip on.

@xxxtreme22r: Yep, that is taken care of. But I think the next post sounds about right

@ chubbydude: No new spindle bushings. I tried using a combination wrench under the CV washer, but nothing the size of a prybar. I'll give that a shot.

I am certain that the two axle seals themselves are installed correctly (if they are indeed the right part numbers, if that smaller knuckle seal looks wrong let me know.) Does it normally take a lot of force to get the two seals to seal to each other? In other words, to get the rubber on one seal to properly seat against the other...

Thanks for the replies!

iamsuperbleeder

I wander if the shaft on the new CV was manufactured wrong and is too short???

have you taken some measurements?

vsi1600

Thanks for the reply

Yeah, the shafts are the same length...

At this point I'm thinking that it definitely has something to do with the seals. Haven't had the time or facilities to try harder to get it to seat (collecting info atm), but I'm curious if anyone has any comment on how hard the CV seal has to be forced into the knuckle seal to get the two seals to seat to one another... as opposed to the two seals just riding on each-other, which is kind of how I assumed they were supposed to work.

mfwimg82

seal in back does not look to be in right or maybe wrong seal was it the same as old one ? did mine sat morning there was not a space like the one in the picture

chubbydude

When I did mine, I did inner needle bearings, and outer spindle bushing as well as aftermarket CV's and a ton of grease. One of my snap-rings on one side was tight and would not go on. I think the service manual list 2 thicknesses of snap rings. I tried to go to the dealer and see if they stock both, but they said they only listed the one, and SHOL you should have bought OEM Toyota CV's crap. I just sanded some thou off the ring and it finally popped in.

Wrenchinjoe

The new seals are hard to seat at first. I used a standard wrecking bar (pry bar) and it worked ok. Use the claw end under the cv bolt head, then span a couple of lugs/studs with something flat (ie. the handle of a crescent wrench) to pry against, that applys good outward force on the end of that axle. One c-clip went right on, the other I had to lean on the pry bar a little more.
Good luck.

vsi1600

Thanks Wrenchinjoe, good advice

To those asking, the new knuckle seal that I used IS different than the ones that came out, it has a smaller OD overall. But as far as I can tell, it does exactly the same thing, it just supercedes the older bigger ones.

Knuckle seal used is part number 90316-60004. The older version is 90316-60002. As far as I know the only difference is the OD of the metal lip, the seal itself and the mating surface for the knuckle are the same as far as I know.

Thanks for the prybar tip Wrenchinjoe, it's going to be a few more days before I am back in the garage to try it out, but I will give it a shot asap and report back.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Got a question to piggy-back onto this thread... how necessary is the CV axle c-clip and why? Does it act as a thrust washer or something?

I changed out an axle yesterday and found that I had been running it without a c-clip. Also, since I didn't have a stock replacement I put on a round c-clip I had in my parts pile that fit. Any reason that would be a problem?

HighLux

Can you jack up the control arm to get axle to stick out more....I mean is it sagging and not sliding all the way through becuase of length? jacking it up may work.

xxxtreme22r

hmmm funny, I had replied to this and I think I got the solution, did you ever fix this if so what did you do, so I know we are on the same page. Any photos of that 90316-60004 seal? Is it a normal wheel seal type or did it also have a dust shield on it along with the rubber seal.

bmcghie

Mudhippy posted on another, older thread how he dealt with this. I believe it was basically filing/sanding down the rubber lip of the new seal.

If that is against your inclination, I've had no problems running both CVs without C-clips for 3 years now. The gold bolt + spacer + washer holds them nice and snug out towards the hubs. No play at all. If you have a gap, I belive Toyota has special spacers for exactly this purpose... or you could find the right size washer to take up the slack.