cost efficient way to regear?
#1
cost efficient way to regear?
i am definitely going to be interested in regearing my truck to 4:88's after i install 33x12.50 tires. i was wondering what the cheapest way to go about doing this. should i go out and buy the ring and pinion gears myself and have it professional installed? Or it hard to install the gears in the front and rear thirds myself?
Thank You.
Thank You.
#3
cheapest would to find used thirds with 4.88's and swap them in.
You cannot swap in the ring and pinion your self, way to much you have to worry about, and its complicated.
I would call local installers and get prices, and look online and see if you can get the r&p cheaper.
You cannot swap in the ring and pinion your self, way to much you have to worry about, and its complicated.
I would call local installers and get prices, and look online and see if you can get the r&p cheaper.
#6
HAHA x2
Resetting the backlash is easy, but pinion depth is predicted only with (vast) experience. You can guess and check, but you'll probably spend more buying an assortment of shims than you would having a shop set them up for you.
The cheapest way to go about this is to find a used set of 4.88s (automatic, with factory 31s). They're not super common, but they're out there.
Resetting the backlash is easy, but pinion depth is predicted only with (vast) experience. You can guess and check, but you'll probably spend more buying an assortment of shims than you would having a shop set them up for you.
The cheapest way to go about this is to find a used set of 4.88s (automatic, with factory 31s). They're not super common, but they're out there.
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#9
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Go find a 92-95 toyota 4runner or pickup with this combo: V6, automatic and 31" tires (from the factory). It will have factory 4.88 gears. Remove the rear third and front diff and put them in yours. I was able to buy a set for 350 bucks (a little high) and sell my 4.56 diffs for 250...
I had to totally overhaul the rear third due to it being VERY high mileage (street queen), but it still came in pretty cheap.. I also took the oppertunaty to throw a lockright in it
Cost me like 350 bucks in the end or so..
I had to totally overhaul the rear third due to it being VERY high mileage (street queen), but it still came in pretty cheap.. I also took the oppertunaty to throw a lockright in it
Cost me like 350 bucks in the end or so..
Last edited by Jay351; 09-21-2008 at 04:57 PM.
#12
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#14
No, you probably only have 4.56s. Your truck probably had 225/75R15s from the factory, and someone along the way (maybe even the dealership) put on 31s.
#16
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1. The v6's used a different pinion flange pattern, you can drill new holes to fit your 4cyl driveshaft if you want. Or you can get tripple drilled flanges from marlin crawler and alike..
2. The new rear diff will probibly have a rear ABS hookup, if yours does not you can just snip the pigtail comming out of the third. Or remove and replace with a brass plug (the abs sensors are worth some money)
3. The front diff will have ADD. So you will need to disable the vaccum operated actuator to stay locked.. Not hard.
Other then that, its a 100% direct bolt in..
#17
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Well, dealers were known to throw the 31" tires on there at the shop.. but they never bothered to re-gear the truck.. Its common.
Try the lifted tire spin method to be 100% sure of the ratio.
#18
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i got my 4.56 3rds from a 92 V6 4runner and the pinion flange was no different from my 87 4.30 4cyl 3rds