91RunnerSC

When idling with the AC off, the compressor belt and pulleys all spin fine. Once the AC is engaged, it makes a quiet but distinguishable noise and the compressor pulley and belt stop spinning. My first inclination was that the compressor had seized or something to that effect. It's hard to see in there without taking the PS belt off but isn't the compressor belt attached from the compressor to a tightening pulley and then to the crankshaft??? How could my engine keep running with the belt and compressor stopped??? (mind you I turned off the engine soon after noticing the issue.)

Is my compressor or might there be another explanation? Price on a compressor fix/replace??

Thanks guys

tc

Sounds like the belt is too loose. The adjustment for the idler is a 14mm socket from under the truck on the passenger side.

Also, the pulley on the compressor has a clutch. While it is possible the compressor is dead, either a loose belt or toasted clutch is a more common failure.

91RunnerSC

The belt seems to be tight, although I don't have the Newton specific meter to confirm. I'll get under there again and see how much play I can get.

What might be the repair cost for a new compressor clutch?

Junkers88

I just dropped 170$ on a new compressor clutch and will be installing it next week.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

ackits.com is a great site with a very helpful forum.

91RunnerSC

is replacing the clutch an intensive operation. ie. will any fluid bleeding or pressurizing be necessary?

is there a way to be sure its the clutch?

abecedarian

If you turn the a/c on and the compressor / clutch pulley don't keep turning, the compressor is seized. Changing the clutch won't fix the problem.

854x4

Is this a 22re? Replacing the clutch is not hard but does require a special tool to remove and install , some autopart stores will loan out this tool. You shouldnt loose any freon changing the clutch. Check to see if the clutch spins freely by hand. Engine off grab the front of the compressor and try to turn, then you can engage the clutch by running 12 volts to the compressor wire, the clutch should then engage try turning it then. If it doesent turn when engaged the compressor is seized.

91RunnerSC

it's a 3vz

Since it spins freely when the AC is off and stops when the AC is on, this leads me to believe that the clutch is functioning properly and the compressor is the broken link. Correct logic??

Prices on compressor installs are around $800 yea?

Looks like I'll be rolling without AC for a while.

854x4

The testing applies the same to the 3vze. Most shops that replace compressors also replace the clutch. $800 seems a little high to me. What does that include?

91RunnerSC

I remember seeing a post here quoting about $800 for the unit and install. I suppose I could do it but I dunno how difficult it is to evacuate the system and replace the coolant. I'll do that test too and see what happens.

91RunnerSC

Is this both the compressor and clutch??

https://www.ackits.com/pc/018303CP/T...essor+-+Clutch

854x4

Well if there keeping the system R12 then I could see that price. That looks like the right compressor and clutch to me. The last time I changed one of these it took me less then an hour. You might be able to find a shop that will evac the freon out of your system and then you can replace the parts yourself and take it back to the shop and have them charge it up. I can walk you through this if you decide to take it on.

91RunnerSC

the system has been retrofitted to r134a. Hopefully the parts (compressor, clutch, etc) are all backwards compatible. I'll contact my shop down the street and see if I could have them do the evac and recharge.

How would you compare the compressor install to the PS pump install and flush? Just finished that project a few months ago. I imagine most of the work is done from the bottom.

854x4

If it has already been retrofitted to r134a then it just made this job a whole lot eaiser. Compared to a PS pump install I would put them about the same if you can do that then you can do this.

91RunnerSC

awesome! I'll probably attempt the install later this summer when I have some spare cash and i'll be at my parents house which has a better tool selection. I'll send you a PM sometime and if you could give me any pointers that would be sick!

thanks guys!!!

854x4

I forgot to ask did you have the system retrofitted by a shop? How long ago did they retrofit it? Did they change the fittings to quick dissconnect r134a fittings? Did they flush the old oil out of the system? If they didnt flush the old oil your compresser might have seized due to incapatible oils, we call this black death. If it is black death its no problem just need to be flushed when the system is open.

91RunnerSC

It was retrofitted before I bought it. The underside of the hood has a sticker stating that it was retrofitted and looks like it was done by a pro shop, so I would hope all the old equipment was replaced. As for 134 fittings... do you mean the high and low pressure ports by which one can add coolant to the system? if so, then yes they are all new fittings. I recharged the system about 6 months ago with one of the r134a canisters too.

854x4

Ya those sound like the right fittings to me. If it was done by a pro shop then it was more then likely flushed, you'll know when you take the compressor off if it has black death or not. Before you condem the compresser make sure that its at fault with the tests I mentioned above, but it sounds to me that it is seized.

abecedarian

Interesting conversation, what with CFC-12 and HCFC-134a not requiring anything different with respect to the compressor save for differing Schrader valves used to prevent introducing one refrigerant into a differing system.

You end up with problems changing from CFC-12 to HCFC-134a not because of the different refrigerant but because of the different lubricating oils used. An older CFC-12 system typically requires different oil because of the seals used in the system. Some more recent CFC-12 systems aren't as prone to issues because they were built with using HCFC-134a as an option, so the seals are compatible with both systems. But mixing an HCFC-134a specific oil with a CFC-12 specific oil results in the oils congealing and after that, the oil stops circulating. Following that, the compressor seizes due to the lack of lubrication.

Again, I will say that if you turn the a/c on and the compressor clutch stops turning, the compressor is seized. I don't care particularly much about what was done, who did it, why it was done or anything of the like.