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so could this part keep my engine from starting? I would just take it off and check it but im unable to check it without breaking the connector, as it permanently attached.
Oh, I wouldn't think so. But I suppose it could. That's just not very common atleast. Why is the connector permanently attatched? That won't make replacing it any fun...
Alright well thats nice to know, Im just not getting injector pulse so trying to see what could cause the ECU not to fire the injectors, when I did the head gaskets the little clip on the harness broke so my dad had the idea we could put some blue silicone on the connector and it would hold it on, well now there is no way to get it off without breaking it to pieces.
So you're not getting any codes? I would think you would if the injectors aren't firing. And if the ECT sensor's not working, there's a code for that too. So if you're not getting a code 22, then you can look elsewhere for the root cause the issue. It could be a number of things that would cause that, from shorts in the wiring harness to a faulty ECU. Most of those would throw a code though.
This thread had both helped me and confused me. My '92 3VZE Pickup only has 3 sensors in that coolant manifold. My '91 Runner had more and they were in different locations, and there also wasn't a big heater hose coming off the manifold.
Here are two pics of the coolant manifold on my '92. I am pretty sure they are (from left in these pics to right in these pics), CSI time switch to the left of the heater hose, ECT sender (for gauge) to the right of the heater hose, and then the ECT Sensor last, all the way to the right, and then another heater hose. It's pretty similar to the picture above with all of the arrows, except I don't see a ECT Switch located anywhere back there.
Has anyone else seen them configured like this? Is it possible that they did away with the ECT Switch at some point? Doesn't seem likely to me, but I don't see it anywhere. Trying to diagnose a hard warm start issue, and have the ECT Sensor disconnected right now, starts perfect with it disconnected, but have the CEL on. Ohmed out the ECT Sensor with my meter on the 2000K ohm setting and got .79 when the engine was warm, need to find a chart to see if that's within specs.
Anyway here are the pics of the back of my engine, anyone see an ECT Switch back there?
I'm not 100% sure what they do. But I do know for sure what they are so far as their Part Name Codes.
However...
I think the purpose of 1 is probably related to the A/C cut off relay, and would be used to limit the use of A/C to when engine coolant temperature is below a certain threshold. Which the terms temperature detection switch imply(as apposed to sensor, sender, or gauge). Since it essentially switches the A/C ON/OFF.
I think the purpose of 3 is probably related to the FPU(Fuel Pressure Up) system. In which case it would be used to actuate the VSV for the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator) when engine coolant temperature is above a certain threshold. Which the terms temperature switch (for E.F.I.) imply(as apposed to sensor, sender, gauge, or switch for another system). Since it essentially switches the FPU system ON/OFF(and since FPU is an E.F.I. subsystem).
After doing a lot of research as to why my O/D doesn't kick in, I think that it is probably my ECT sensor. I have an 89 pickup automatic with the 3vze that I bought about a year ago, and I am slowly bringing it back from hell.
I'm thinking the sensor is done for and sending bad readings to the computer. The temperature gauge seems to work fine but the sensor must be faulty and making the computer think its never at operating temperature.
I bought this truck about a year ago, and it had tons of problems. The wiring harness had been completely cut around the intake/tps area and almost every plastic connection was falling apart. I have replaced many connectors like the fuel injector connectors and I though I had fixed all wire cuts that were made in the past, but today I found a few more when I went to check out the ECT sensor area.
I took this picture today and found some problems:
By looking at the picture, it seems the connectors to the ECT sensor (#2 in pic) and CSI Time Switch (#1 in pic) fell apart or were cut. But the only one that was "temporarily fixed" was the ECT. The wires for the CSI time switch have been cut and are to the left of the picture. I realize now that I need a new connector for the ECT sensor and for the CSI time switch. But since all I have is wires, I need to know where each wire is supposed to go so when I get replacement connectors I install them right. If someone could help me out in identifying what color wire is supposed to go where It would really help me out.
So it seems that I have not had my Cold Start Injector Time Switch connected since I have had my truck. My truck does have trouble starting when its cold out, is the reason why? and my ECT sensor looks like it has never been replaced so could this is be why my O/D never works?
I have a couple other questions after taking this pic:
Where is the ground labeled in the pic supposed to be connected to? You can't see it in the pic but it has been cut and I moved it to the right to be out of the way.
The TVV/BVSV is labeled but not really in the pic.
A while back, I used to have "fume" smells in the cab and I came to find out it was a hose from the charcoal canister that was to be plugged into the TVV/BVSV. I plugged it in to the empty slot of the TVV/BVSV but according to a FSM diagram the hoses should be plugged in opposite of where I have them. The diagram showed that the small hose coming from the charcoal canister should be plugged to the top slot of the TVV/BVSV and the bottom one to the metal line to purge.
Does this make sense? Does it matter what slot of the TVV/BVSV these hoses are plugged to? This is the diagram I came across and currently my hoses are plugged opposite of this diagram. I just want to know if I should switch them or if it doesn't matter.
So it seems that I have not had my Cold Start Injector Time Switch connected since I have had my truck. My truck does have trouble starting when its cold out, is the reason why?
Without the CSI, the truck should be harder to start when cold. (Other things can make it hard to start, but it is designed to have a CSI and that is its purpose.)
Originally Posted by MGM719
and my ECT sensor looks like it has never been replaced so could this is be why my O/D never works?
There is a temperature sensor for the O/D, but I can't say for sure which one it is. The transmission won't go into O/D when coolant is cold.
Originally Posted by MGM719
Does it matter what slot of the TVV/BVSV these hoses are plugged to?
I got a 91 yota 6cyl and it is very hard to start when cold it fires quik as normal but seems as if something is being choked fuel is my guess I do not smell excess fuel there is a lot more smoke than normal until its reached temp. And it idles ruff until it reaches temp also the check engine is on while this is going on I pulled the code it say the coolant temp sensor. Could that be the culprit I just did the knock sensor job (nightmare) and remember bumping that coolant sensor with the upper intake. Mechanic told me it was the cold start injector which would make more sence to me once its warm it fires up perfect runs great and I don't have any cooling issues just in the morning when I get up depending on the temp outside I could be trying to start it for 15 min I know this ain't no cold blooded Chevy any suggestions badass site by the way got me threw my knock sensor job
Ok, so in that photo. The blue Sensor with the square plug... How important is that? My actual wire snapped off the plug on mine and I have no idea where to get a new one. Does anyone have a wiring harness laying around that they can cut one off? Can I leave this unplugged? Help.....
I cracked the housing for all thecoolant sensors while trying to remove the vsv (two nipple vacuum switch) So I bought another 'coolant manifold' from someone but heres my issues: the replacement doesnt have a port for coolant tempurature switch (small blue plug) ...im guessing that this is because his truck was a stick and mines an auto....so should I jb weld my original coolant block or ? Im thinging theyre not interchangeable....what is the purpose of the little blue sensor (found on automatics only from what ive read)....something to do with over drive?
The issue is that my 4Runners production date is August 1990 and in august some things changed so bunch of part numbers/parts changed. How can I confirm if this part number will work on my engine?
EDIT:
In addition.. i can't find this "Engine Temperature Switch" in the FSM, or the wiring diagrams available. I even looked at the whole list of the connectors going into the ECU, and none are the elusive temp switch. What does this engine temp switch do?
So after some head work and new cams I came to have some issues where the 3.0 would not start after parking it for about 30 mins.
It would start and drive perfectly fine and without any engine light or error etc... then recently I would park and about 30 mins later it would not start; it would fire for a moment but then die.
I knew I had spark and fuel so it must have been the EFI.
SO after some testing I figure its the Temp Sensor; the other 2 wire temp sensor thats not the cold start. (the smaller single wire runs the gauge. Sometimes it hard to tell which 'sensor' does what"
Once I had the heads off Id figure Id replace the temp sensors in the back just to do it and I must have bought a cheap/crappy temp sensor, but I have a factory replacement on the way to double check my thoughts.
So after driving and parking it with the hood closed I believe the temp sensor would heat soak above its range would would fail which would keep the EFI from working. So what Ive done is pour a few bottles of water in the back over the temp sensors to try to drop the temps and it worked; the truck would start.
So Ive tested this a few times and still came to the same result. I would run the car then park for 30 mins; sometimes with the hood open and it would start; with the hood closed and after 30 mins it would not start. If I run a trickle of water from a hose on the sensors for a few mins or a few bottles of water it would again start. oh and once it starts it seems to run rich as my mpg has dropped and I can really smell it, even at full normal operating temp; although I have no engine light.
Just wanted to share my thoughts and experiences with my problem and hope to confirm once I install my new sensor.
Might be a dumb question but I’m kinda in a pinch and need my runner back on the road quick! I thought I saw a crack in the coolant sensor manifold cause I had a leak but turned out that the hose on the very passenger side was just not seated down all the way. Question is can I just use a sensor safe rvt gasket maker or do I need to wait and get the actual gasket? This is actually a question about gaskets in general. I know the actual gasket is the right way to go but sometimes it is a lot quicker to just squeeze one out then wait for one to come in on order or whatever! IDK if you have thoughts on this would love to hear them!
If you haven't removed the Water Bypass Outlet and are just dealing with the U-shaped hose, I don't think I would use any gasket-maker or sealant on a hose.
I have a problem I can’t seem to find a resolution to. I have a 1988 Toyota 4x4 manual truck the was given to me by my brother. The truck caught on fire and burned mostly plastic and vacuum stuff on top the motor. I found a thread on an egr emissions delete that I am going to do simply because most of that is burned. On the driver side of my engine where the coolant manifold or coolant block is where a lot of the fire was. I have managed to find the sensors I need to replace there. My issue is the actual wires that plug into those sensors are crispy. I am unable to trace them back to their origin. I was wondering if anyone had knowledge as to where each plug goes maybe some pictures and such so I can figure this out or if there is a forum that will work too. I’m still learning how to use this site. I’m attaching some pictures to better show what’s going on. If someone can besides the small vacuum hoses see if anything needs replacing that I haven’t described in this question. I have a
distributor plug wires and plugs. I am searching for a tps now so that will be replaced and I found the tps wire plug in as well. Thank you for any and all help.
02-06-2011, 01:43 PM
