dtroupe18

In the above picture at the back of the engine there is a black rubber hose that enters into a metal tube that goes into the block. There is a decent leak (steady drip) coming out of this leak from the bottom of the pipe where it meets the block. There is not a hole/crack in the pipe as I have checked that already. I'm guessing there is an o-ring that is bad where the pipe connects to the block. My questions is how do I disconnect this pipe to get to the gasket/o-ring to fix the leak?

Hopefully the head doesn't have to come off

Thanks for any and all help in advance

scuba

Try tightening the hose clamp.

dtroupe18

Please read before you reply the leak IS NOT where the hose and pipe meet but where the pipe enters the block. And the clamp is already tight.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure what you mean by "pipe that connects to the block"... is this a 22re(what year?) or a 3.0? Looks like a 22re from the pics, but can't be sure.

The pipe in the pic which SEEMS like it's one of the heater hose pipes, at least on my model(87 4Runner) runs down there, then under the exhaust and into the back of the timing cover on the driver side, not into the block.

The other heater hose there comes down and wraps around to the passenger side and along the head, behind the fuel filter bracket and then up into the intake manifold in the center.

Maybe you could get a better picture? The only one I know of in my 22re with an o-ring is the pipe that comes off the heater hose and wraps around the rear of the head(bolts to it to with a secure-eyelet) and then behind the fuel pump bracket then up into the center of the intake.... If it's leaking where the pic is, ...as I said, can't see pretty much anything from that picture... and it might be a different set up than I have.

Also, ...my pipe that goes around and into the intake had to be replaced because it was leaking right through the pipe due to my cleaning off too much of the electrolysis. I also ordered a new o-ring after trying to seal it up at the intake with rtv(big no no, only the o-ring is needed).... and it's not leaked a drop since. Don't mean to doubt you that "it isn't the pipe"... I just thought that very thing and ended up being wrong. JB kwik weld worked great on one of them that I did NOT want to pull out of the front of the intake(an elbow on the bottom of the intake/front, right under the throttle body and next to the IACV.... (just letting you know that it works, ...with water, not oil situations).

Btw, Scuba is a good dude, very helpful to lots of people on here who was most likely just trying to suggest the easiest thing, first... Maybe like me, he just can't see what exactly is going on in that pic?? Being presumptuous with a guy with 10,000 comments might not bring much help, just sayin.

best wishes, COOLANT LEAKS SUCK!

PS> More pics with a lil more light please, of the exact location of the leak?

PSS> Post the Year, Model and Specifics(Motor) in your rig. Looks much different than mine.... might help too

coops2k

Need to check mine, truck is using some antifreeze

dtroupe18

Ok. I have at 1993 22RE with 135k. I guess the pipe does not go into the block I wasn't really sure what they go back into specially I was just trying to say they go into the engine/heater core I don't really know here are some better pics. These are of two pipes that are on the DRIVERS side of a 22RE there is one in the middle and one further back the one in the BACK is the one that leaks. There is also a similar pipe that wraps around the back of the engine from passenger side guessing whatever this connects to the one I'm talking about is related too.



The above pic is of the front pipe my finger is touching. The other pipe thats further back is exactly the same rubber hose into metal pipe that goes into the timing cover as you said???



This above ^^^ picture you can see my finger again on the pipe this IS the one that leaks the valve cover is to my left and the pipe below it is part of the exhaust (EGR?)



Side view of the pipe from drivers side of car you can see the clamp on the rubber and the metal pipe heading into the timing cover? I hope this helps. If you think anything else would help too let me know

PS Scuba I wasn't trying to offend. I did give ya the caps lock I just figured maybe my post was vague and I wanted to clarify where the leak was

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dtroupe....

Here are some better pics, as it seems the pipes are VERY similar if not exactly the same as my 87 22RE.

In this picture, you can see both pipes coming from the heater hoses in the firewall, downward. The one on the right, most forward, you can see runs under the header in my pic and winds up in the back of the timing cover, driver side.....



The one in the rear/left in the above pic, at least on mine, disappears behind the head(where its' actually bolted to the back of the head block plate through one of the bolts)...then wraps around the pass. side of the block, behind the fuel filter, then straight up in the middle with another bend, into the intake in the middle, here.>>>>



The one in the next pic, below, is a shorter t-pipe that runs to the throttle body, IACV, etc.....



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Reach up above the oil filter and touch the pipe where it goes into the intake.... if you feel water there, that IS AN O-RING that's failed..... at the very least, the bolts are loose. 2 bolts, 10mm. I replaced mine with studs into the intake... that helped to keep it lined up as I installed it and once I broke the nuts free, they just spun off with the lock washers I used.... If you end up having to remove that, I CAN help you, if you want, with a step by step of how to remove it with the least amount of 'tear down' as possible. If it's NOT where it's leaking, we need more CLEAR info..... Use my pics to explain, using PAINT SHOP, exactly where the pipe is leaking.

PS> If you feel coolant leaking from behind the head, not over by the intake..... My guess is, while you might not wanna hear it(I wouldn't ), is that your head block plate is leaking and running off of the pipe, making it SEEM like the pipe is leaking.

dtroupe18

Yeah those are the two pipes Im talking about. The one closer to the firewall is where the drip is it drips onto the bellhousing and then on the ground. So it's leaking on the drivers side not by the intake like yours was. Hope that helps? I can edit the photo and circle it if you want later let me know if you get what I'm talking about now

dtroupe18

To be most specific the two pipes that the hoses come down from the firewall on and they are both visible in the first pic you have

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

No, no need to edit it, etc., s'ok.

What I THINK is most likely happening to you is that the "Head Block Plate" is leaking. Could be through one of the bolt holes or just from the gasket(I would think more likely from a bolt hole, specifically the one that holds that VERY PIPE up, keeping it from bouncing around, through a bolt that actually also holds the block plate on...../ Kind of like the dip stick as a bad example.... With the dip stick, at the top, the bolt is holding in the Alternator Bracket AND the Dip Stick Brace with the same bolt.... get me?)

If it's NOT the "head block plate" leaking, ...then the only thing I can think of is it's the pipe itself is, I don't know, ... cracking away from the welded on brace that the bolt goes through into the block plate?

OR, it could just be a portion of the pipe at the elbow before it runs behind the head that the pressure of 13# with the coolant(maybe do to a clogged port or heater core???) has worn through a weak spot in the aircraft aluminum pipe, right at the elbow. Reach around behind the head and follow that pipe so you can know what I'm talking about. Use a mirror, etc., and you can even see it, ya know?

From here, it's hard to 'rule out' anything, really, ...as I can't feel around and see if the leak is originating from the block plate, a block plate bolt(compromised block plate gasket would cause that), or what can often happen but is equally often overlooked or ruled out by obscurity,....."The pipe(aircraft aluminum) has a spot where it's electrolysis has worn through to the outside and it's actually leaking RIGHT THROUGH the pipe. Mine did that at the intake. My situation wasn't the o-ring, .....it was that the union of the pipe and flange was compromised, and coolant was actually leaking right through the seem(where they join the aluminum and flange with copper, like a crimp)..... NO ONE could figure it out, including me, lol... We all batted it around on my build thread in my sig.... but eventually, I realized through deduction that the ONLY WAY that could have coolant dripping off the bolts, ....but NOT FROM THE SEAM where it joins the intake, would be RIGHT THROUGH THE PIPE.... And that's exactly what it was.

If you find it's the pipe at that elbow, driver side, before it wraps around the back of the head.... you CAN try to get a longer hose, then run it completely over the elbow, then run a new clamp down to the edge past the elbow as well, ...crimp it down tight and give it a try..... otherwise, either that pipe or block plate has to come out.

1. To pull the pipe....... YOU CAN get it out without removing the intake.....I'D TRY TO REPAIR IT WITH JB KWIK WELD, FIRST, as it's a PITA, obviously.

2. To pull the block plate, you CAN do it without pulling the head, ....NO FUN, but yes, I would try if that's what it is.

xxxtreme22r

I'd be willing to bet you have a pin hole leak in the pipe itself. Looks a little rusty to me. Take the pipe off inspect it better and JB weld or radiator putty it if that's the case.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I agree, Brandon.... His not thinking that was the case led me right off that trail.... but it's SO COMMON, and harder to find, considering more people suspect a seal or hose or hose clamp somewhere. My guess is at the elbow before it goes back behind the head or somewhere where that bracket is that get's bolted to the block plate.

dtroupe18

So how do I get the pipe(s) off to inspect them??

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Dtroupe...... First off, I'm sorry you're dealing with this.... it can really suck. But YOU WILL beat this leak. I'm sure it's got you concerned that it will get worse, etc. Secondly, .... it depends on your experience in digging in there and working around things that the FSM tell you have to be removed, etc. Thirdly, I'm not SURE you HAVE to remove that pipe..... The best thing to do first is shoot that whole thing from the elbow to the block plate on the back of the head with brake cleaner, ......get it COMPLETELY dry, ya dig? Then, turn it on, watching VERY CLOSELY AND CAREFULLY to be CERTAIN where the leak is originating. (That's what I mean by "find the leak, FIRST, than we'll go from there" and the "It's hard to tell ya from over the net with a thing like this"...)

You're going to need to be prepared with GOOD light and a Mirror that you can fit back there to look at the block plate. Run it, then watch the block plate and around it on the spot where the pipe bolts to the block plate to see if it's leaking there, FIRST. Reason? Because you can always work your way backward toward the elbow and hose, wiping it off every few seconds until you pinpoint the source/location of the leak in the pipe(This is all assuming YOU ARE POSITIVE it's not leaking from the hose connection to the pipe).

Both hoses that lead to those pipes come from the heater core's 'in and out' ports in the firewall. I'm not positive, but I GUESS if the core is clogged, it COULD have provided pressure enough to force a pin hole or erosion of electrolysis/rust that was holding it all sealed up.(LIKE I SAID, 'COULD'.... And again, the reason for mentioning that^ is because there COULD be a 'source/reason' for the pipe beginning to leak.... but it's most likely, as XXXtreme said, 'just that time that it finally wore through the pipe')

IFFFFF, indeed, you find that the pipe is leaking coolant through itself/from inside to outside...then that still does not conclude that you HAVE TO remove the pipe. There are many repairs that I'd try first, including JB Kwik Weld.

IF you try JB Kwik weld on a weak/leaking spot(if it's just a short section), you want to clean up that section fairly well, allow all the coolant to drain down from the hose out of the heater core and then try to get out as much coolant as possible from inside the pipe(it can be hard to get the JB Weld to set up if it's not allowed to dry....but IT CAN set up in spite of a TINY leak that only drips when under pressure... So I WOULD TRY, first, as I said). If and when you apply it, you would want to apply it fairly thick(something like half of the two tubes you combine to make the concoction), slather it all over the section you've narrowed it down to, then let it dry, COMPLETELY, for an hour or so.(it says on the jar how long to COMPLETELY set....and after all, it is 'KWIK', lol.) I've never used Radiator Putty, ....so you'd have to ask XXXtreme on that one, k?

It seems like, with your saying "drip, drip, drip", it's not a REALLY aggressive leak just yet. The section I repaired with JB Kwik Weld is still holding, and was also a steady drip,drip,drip, lol. I would try it first, dude, ..... what have you got to lose but a lil time, right?
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BUT, ...

If you have to remove the pipe..... let's see. Maybe XXXtreme and others can help me out here... but as I said, I'm PRETTY SURE you can remove it without removing the intake, etc...... FIRST DRAIN HALF OF COOLANT, AT LEAST.

1. Then, you have to unbolt the pipe mounting bolt from the back of the head-block-plate(You HAVE looked back there by now to see what I'm talking about, right?)

2. You would have to then unbolt the two bolts that mount the wrap around pipe up into the intake/midway. (you'll pull it down and off later, after you do the next, #3 step.

3. You remove the inspection skirt in the fender-well, to allow easier access to the fuel filter. Unbolt the filter mounting bracket(NOT THE FILTER)bolts....Should be one on top and one on bottom. DON'T REMOVE THEM, just loosen the lower one a lil bit(1/4" at most) and the upper one enough until the pipe will slide out from behind it.

4. YOU SHOULD, then, be able to pull the pipe out of the intake, then tilt that section downward, while pulling upward at the block plate eyelet, toward the hood(Reason being, it's a hard "L" shape, as you'll see, ...and that's ONE of the ways to pull it out) The other way would be to pull that intake/pipe point of the pipe down a bit, then pull the whole pipe toward the passenger fender a lil, then start to manipulate it downward and out of the car through the bottom, near the diff, etc.

I COULD BE WRONG, ...it may be nearly impossible to get out of there without removing the intake, ...BUT I'D TRY, for sure, ....>I mean, what do you have to lose, right?

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Just sharing it all to get it out of the way, as I'll probably be busy for the rest of the day.

PS> What is your time limit on this? Daily Driver? Emergency type job? I ask because, the main reason I said "try the JB Kwik Weld or Putty first", assuming you didn't need to have this done in the next couple hours, right?

xxxtreme22r

Don't ask me, I am not sure that pipe is exactly the same on my 22r.

dtroupe18

Chef,

You are right the leak isn't very aggressive it takes about 4-5 days until the coolant gets low enough that I have to add some. I also don't drive much. This truck is my daily driver as I am a poor college student and didn't have much to spend and wanted something easy to work on. I will definitely clean the pipe up really good and JB weld it. Hopefully that fixes things. Thanks for all of your help.

If i have to take anything apart I will try and make a nice write up in case anyone else has the same problem

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sure man, ....my pleasure. But make sure you do the CHECKS, FIRST, with the mirror/light, or outdoors with plenty of light, after cleaning it up.... Cuz you want to be SURE it's not the block plate leaking onto the pipe and then down along the pipe to where you 'SEE' it dripping. Ya know? Gotta FIND IT, FIRST, ...before even slathering on JB weld, .... have to KNOW where it is, ya feel me? lol

And, remember, man........ that leak could turn into a major leak at any moment and then overheat, which could then lead to much bigger problems than a 'slow leak'.... Don't let it go, s'all I'm suggesting.

dtroupe18

Just an update I had to put off fixing this problem because I was/am having issues with the truck starting. I replaced the starter and it lasted one day then got another one lasted 1 day now I have one from the stealership and realized the cable from the battery to the starter is bad? and I replaced that and both terminals so I'm waiting to see if this problem is resolved before I fix the pipe lol. I thanks chef I always keep and eye on the heat gauge so I should be ok, I also add water frequently. I'll report back once everything is fixed

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, ...... Remember, you have a 'Starter Relay' as well. I'm not sure those don't just QUIT.... rather than intermittent issues....but? lol.

Far as the wire.... Hmmmm, you're speaking of the brown connector(whatever color yours is I can't be sure) that 'PLUGS' into the starter? Or the cable off the battery that you bolt in?

dtroupe18

What's the starter relay? It's more intermittent problem and I replaced the bolt on wire