Just_ Rollin'

I went for a nice drive up to Azusa Canyon, CA which is about a 50 mile drive one way (half highway 70mph and the rest some pretty aggressive inclines at low speed). I got to the top, which was about 5,000-6,000ft, turned off the car, and got out to enjoy the view. I looked back at the car and it was spilling coolant from what I found to be the overflow reservoir.

So I concluded that the coolant had become too hot. Maybe it was lucky that I stopped right then and didn't keep driving like that. Anyhow, I collected the overflow in a gatorade bottle and after like 2-4 minutes, it stopped. I put some snow on the radiator and went on a hike for an hour or two. When I came back the reservoir level was low, understandably, so I topped it off with some distilled water that I had in the car.

Going down the hill was mostly coasting in neutral or 3rd and the highway drive home was uneventful.

I am gearing up for a rigorous coolant flush, possibly with some CLR, and going to replace the green stuff with some Zerex Asian Model coolant and I ordered a new OEM radiator cap because the existing cap's gasket was looking torn up.

I am considering changing the thermostat too but then again, maybe I should just do the whole timing belt job if I start that. My real question here is, why did the coolant overflow like that? I have read it could have been the altitude (which changes boiling point of coolant) or it could have been a blown HG, or a combination of old coolant and leaking radiator cap. Either way, the temp gauge didn't move.

What are you guys thinking? I am leaning towards it just being a rough hill climb at low speeds, old coolant, and an aging rad cap.

pwd

I think a new OEM rad cap should solve your issue. Start with that and see how it goes, its an inexpensive replacement.

Gamefreakgc

Careful with running any cleaning agents through a coolant system. You might end up removing too much or damaging the hoses/gaskets and end up with a cooling system that resembles swiss cheese.

x2 on cap, more pressure equals higher boiling point. But a coolant flush is a good idea, especially if you don't know how old it is. It's recommended by Toyota to flush it every 2 years or 30000 miles. My guess is you're probably exceeded that.

Neglecting the coolant leads to the majority of head gasket problems. The people who post "OMG I blew my headgasket what went wrong!!!" most likely have never inspected or changed they coolant. Like my brother, for instance...

Just_ Rollin'

New radiator cap is on its way, OEM.

I am somewhat nervous about running CLR in the system but people do it apparently, with some success. My plan for now is to drain it, then fill with distilled water and CLR, then run it and then just keep flushing with water. And THEN, do a timing belt job and replace the coolant components that are probably at issue.

I opened up the coolant reservoir yesterday and noticed black things floating in it....


I called Toyota today about headgasket recall service records for my truck and they said it was done in 1999! Yikes. Since I am at 225k I imagine the mileage was less than 100k in 99. My question is, was the head gasket recall just something where they replaced the headgasket or was there some kind of material change or redesign for me to think that I don't need a replacement. I am not having any issues with mine so....why fix it. New timing belt and cooling components should give me peace of mind and the truck is in excellent condition.

Gamefreakgc

Unless you have coolant leaking from the weep hole at the bottom of the timing belt cover, I'd not worry about the water pump yet. The timing belts last a while, I rarely hear of them breaking. Mine was very stretched out when I had it replaced a few months back but was structurally sound.

The head gasket recall was to install a better quality gasket. The problem was that the head and engine block are made of two different types of metal that expand and contract at separate heat intervals which the old gaskets couldn't take. The new ones help lessen the damage. I would recommend never removing the heads on an engines as old as ours unless need drives you to do it.

Just_ Rollin'

That's good news, I won't worry about the HG then. I am not having any symptoms of any issue with the timing belt, water pump, etc. Nothing. I'm leaking oil from somewhere which seems to be the valve covers. But then again, its not always obvious if the timing belt and associated components need to be fixed is it?

I am considering a lengthy cross country drive soon so I don't want to be worried about this stuff.

Gamefreakgc

Ahh, gotcha. The timing belt and water pump should be done at the same time, since both are maintenance parts roughly ever 100k miles. So if you decide to do the belt, have the water pump done as well (will cost roughly and extra $300 for parts with replacing the pulleys but save the time of taking it apart twice!).

If you don't have the tools to take off the pulleys since some are torqued at 200 lbs, then having it done at a shop with water pump will run you about $1000.

Just_ Rollin'

Yeah this is my bargain ride so 1k is no good, haha. I've been reading the FSM and the timing belt job seems pretty straight forward. I have an impact wrench/hammer too so it should be quick work. I actually went to the junkyard a couple days ago and experimented on a 4runner there for only $2.

I saw a nice Toyota OEM kit on ebay for $426. Included just about everything including cam seals I think. Does this sound about right for price? I haven't priced out each part individually just yet but I will today. I am cleaning out the room in my garage to perform surgery on my truck. I added a picture just to make this thread more exciting.

Just_ Rollin'

My radiator is pretty scaled up with lime and pieces of floating gasket/sealant visible from the radiator cap. I'm not feeling so good about using CLR anymore and thinking I will just flush it out.

I've done a few hours of reading about coolant flushes but there doesn't seem to be a standard. Do I just unscrew the drain on the radiator, turn on engine, and make sure that enough water is flowing through?

I see some people saying to flush with the thermostat, which seems ridiculous because of where it is and the work that would be required to remove it. My understanding is the engine has to be warm, so the thermostat opens, and then flushes the system. Is running straight water for a few minutes going to be a problem? Also, if there is Prestone green coolant in there and mixing that with red coolant is very problematic, then how could I get all the green out to use red.....some people say you can't get all the old coolant out?

92yoterDD

Fill with water, run for 10 min, then drain. Repeat this 3-4 times or until water comes out clean and clear. Than drain radiator and fill with new coolant.

Just_ Rollin'

Thanks.

Has anyone ever used other Toyota radiators? Like from a v6 camry or 3.4L 4runner? I can find them for a decent price but any oem replacement for the 3.0 is like $400 minimum.

92yoterDD

Look up a company called performance radiator. They have a shop here in little rock arkansas and they make all aluminum radiators usually around $140.

92yoterDD

Here is a listing from their site for 4runner with a 3.0
https://shop.performanceradiator.com...37_33158_33160

I have used them many times with great success. They have locations all over as well.

Gamefreakgc

I used Autozone's one on my bro's and it was $125. It has plastic components but the radiator itself is make of aluminum. No complaints. There is better ones out there though. I would hold off on a new radiator until you're sure that yours is no good or leaking. I have 285k on the original stock radiator and have never had any issues.

The only thing you want to be careful of during the flush is running the engine with not enough water in it. If your tap water is absolutely terrible, you might want to use distilled. I picked up 5 1-gallon containers of it last time I flushed it which also make for a great way to dispose of the old coolant. Please don't pour it down a storm drain.

Just_ Rollin'

OK, so I am going to open the lower drain on the radiator, remove the radiator cap, turn on engine, and then just keep topping off the radiator with distilled water until the stuff that flushes out is clear. Is that the correct process?


I'm with you on the OEM radiator. Its a good unit and mine isn't leaking but it is pretty crusty inside. The other ones I see are made of plastic and/or are only 1 row. I have been searching the net for a replacement of OEM quality and just can't find it. Has anyone used other Toyota vehicles' radiators in their 3vze?

92yoterDD

https://shop.performanceradiator.com...oduct_id=11043

This one has is aluminum with brass tanks and no plastic anywhere for $266

nothingbetter

back to the original topic for a second, did you let your engine idle for a few minutes after climbing the hill? I think your coolant boiled because you pulled up a long hill and then shut the truck off right away, not because of a cooling system fault. That hill climb put a lot of heat into your engine, (even if your factory gauge didn't read it, they arn't very accurate) if its shut off right away that heat has no-where to go so the coolant boils.

Those of us with turbos have to idle our engine a few minutes after driving or we can kill our turbos from the heat.

Just_ Rollin'

I did stop a few times and let it idle on the way up at cool scenic spots but when I did get to the top it got shut right off, so that is some good insight you gave. Im sure thats it.

I also took a spark plug out today and noticed it was white and looked pretty well cooked. One of the reasons for this I read could be a poorly functioning coolant system.