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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 05-22-2008, 08:01 AM   #1
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Control Arm Bushings

While swapping a new 22re into my 86 4runner I noticed that the front bushing on my upper control arm was no where to be found. It makes sense why the 4runner has been squeeking when the front flexed lately. After looking it up on the forum it sounds like they are a major pain to change. I'm a little short on cash for the moment since I just bought a new engine for the 4runner so I'l have to fix it on the cheap.

My options are
-buying one bushing from Toyota, pulling the control arm and having a shop press it in ~$100
-buying a complete bushing kit from downey or energy suspension and buying a small 6 ton shop press from harbor freight and doing all of the bushings up front (it looks like they haven't been replace in 22 years 300,000 miles) ~$150
-just buying another control arm from the junkyard, but I'm not to set on the idea of putting in used bushings, how long will they last? ~$50

What would you do? Thanks
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:58 AM   #2
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pip lany pip420norcali
if you dont feel good about doing the job yourself check around online for a used complete arm (lots of people go SAS) i myself would get the poly ones and press them in.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:16 AM   #3
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if you envision needing the press in the future then by all means, go buy it.
Otherwise, buy the bushings, pull the arms and find a machine shop to press them for you. last time I had a need for something like that, a local machine shop charged me around 10 bucks a bushing
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:34 AM   #4
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you can use a bench vise to press the old rubber bushings out, and to press the new polyurethane bushings in. they will squeak tho.. i can tell you how to help with the squeaking if you're interested.
...the polyurethane bushings from energy suspension dont come with the steel bushing sleeves.. you need to press the rubber out, and cut it off. there is no need to take it to a machine shop, because you should leave the outer steel sleeves pressed into the control arms while only pressing out the rubber part & inner steel sleve with a bench vise and a couple of big sockets/peices of wood cut up to work. its a pain in the ass... it helps to get all the rubber off if you have a wire wheel.
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31 x 10.5 bfg at's, well taken care of 3vze, rebuilt Hi-Track IFS, delrin/teflon composite control arm bushings, redesigned 25mm BJ spacers, manual hubs, cat replacement & 2.5" exhaust with flowmaster muffler. Marlin bumpers, e-locker mod, various engine mods. LCE headers, too many custom made mods to list.. she goes anywhere i point her.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:36 AM   #5
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..i can guide you through the process step by step if you want... its a hard job, but a simple job, and you can do it with simple hand tools and a vise.. and it should cost less than $50.
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1989 4x4 v6 pickup
****HUMMER RESCUE VEHICLE****
auto
251,872 miles.
driven hard like a toyota truck should be.
31 x 10.5 bfg at's, well taken care of 3vze, rebuilt Hi-Track IFS, delrin/teflon composite control arm bushings, redesigned 25mm BJ spacers, manual hubs, cat replacement & 2.5" exhaust with flowmaster muffler. Marlin bumpers, e-locker mod, various engine mods. LCE headers, too many custom made mods to list.. she goes anywhere i point her.

Last edited by JCM4x89pu; 05-22-2008 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:23 PM   #6
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I just bought a whole new control arm bushing kit and have no idea how to put them in. Could you give me a step by step procedure?
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:14 PM   #7
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bump........................please update with that procedure anyone....
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:19 PM   #8
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Not sure if this will work in this application but when I removed the bushings from some old spring packs I used a Harbor Freight ball joint press. It was the grey one they had on sale for 20$ and it worked great. Just hook up an air impact and drive the bushings out, took about 2 minutes per spring.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:02 AM   #9
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Wow, I didn't know any every replied to this. I ended up just buying Poly bushings from Downey.

-I removed both Torsion bars
-unbolted the upper ball joint from the upper control arm
-drilled about a dozen holes in the old rubber bushings, then used a torch and razor blade to remove what ever was left
-I though I'd need a shop to press the new bushings in, but it turns out they pop right into place
-I installed the bushings and re-installed the control arm

I ordered both sets for the upper and lower control arm. I've only changed the upper bushings so far. If you only have to change the lower bushings I'd imagine you could do it without removing the torsion bars, but you will have to take note of the position of the cam bolts (I believe that's what they're called). I hope this helps.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strykersd View Post
If you only have to change the lower bushings I'd imagine you could do it without removing the torsion bars, but you will have to take note of the position of the cam bolts (I believe that's what they're called). I hope this helps.
For others that may read this, there is also a good likelihood that the cam bolts and the sleeves they go through will be frozen together with rust. Fortunately mine came apart fine (one upside to the desert) but I have read more than a couple threads where they were impossible to seperate. I'm also not sure you ever get the alignment right by marking the cam bolts, but it's certainly worth a shot. I marked. It didn't work. But it also didn't cost me anything to try it.
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Old 10-22-2008, 05:11 AM   #11
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I was leaning toward drilling and cutting. I am glad to know this works. I did pick up a harbor freight 12 ton shop press last night for about $100. I have to remove the frozen cut off stubs of bolts from my chevy springs, and I may want to re gear in the future. I had a 15% off cupon so i figured what the heck. Thanks for the tips I will feel more comfortable doing it now. for anyone that did presss theres, I think the service manual says press off the front first and then slide the shaft out and press the rear out. Wow that sounded bad with that wording. Anyway you get my drift, is that what you guys with a press have done?
I am definately ready to have the bushings and BJ spacers on here and take her for a spin. the PO had the t bars torqed and the ride was very harsh, I am hoping with spacers bushings, and OME shocks it will be a little more well mannered.
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[B]Tom H
Mt Vernon, MO
1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed
MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings
http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:16 AM   #12
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im just wondering what happens if you dont get the cam bolts lined back up... and how you are supposed to do it...
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:21 AM   #13
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I thought there was a thread about diy alignment. They told where to take measurements and use levels and stuff. I makes sense that putting new bushings in would change the alignment, because the last time it was aligned it was for the sagging suspension. Now with everything back where it belongs it will be different. With the cost of tires, anytime you do anything to the suspension it is probably worth getting everything back to proper alignment, not just return it to what it was before.
I may also be completely wrong, but it seems to make sense.
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Mt Vernon, MO
1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed
MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings
http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/
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Old 10-22-2008, 08:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbizwiz View Post
I was leaning toward drilling and cutting. I am glad to know this works. I did pick up a harbor freight 12 ton shop press last night for about $100. I have to remove the frozen cut off stubs of bolts from my chevy springs, and I may want to re gear in the future. I had a 15% off cupon so i figured what the heck. Thanks for the tips I will feel more comfortable doing it now. for anyone that did presss theres, I think the service manual says press off the front first and then slide the shaft out and press the rear out. Wow that sounded bad with that wording. Anyway you get my drift, is that what you guys with a press have done?
I am definately ready to have the bushings and BJ spacers on here and take her for a spin. the PO had the t bars torqed and the ride was very harsh, I am hoping with spacers bushings, and OME shocks it will be a little more well mannered.
About pressing it out, it depends if you're using factory bushings or aftermarket poly bushings. Factory bushings you'd want to push the whole piece out and replace it, but for poly bushings you have to reuse the stock sleeves, so It's probably better not to push the sleeve out.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:42 AM   #15
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Energy Suspensions bushings don't require you to press the shell out of the arm.
here's the installation instructions for both upper and lowers:
http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17019.PDF
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:42 AM   #16
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I was thinking I would use a socket just smaller than the sleece and while I am using the press heat the sleeve with a torch to melt the outter portion of the factory bushing. I figured it would pop right out when it gets warm enough. I had planned on leaving the sleeve in there though. Thanks for the advice.
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Mt Vernon, MO
1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed
MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings
http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:42 AM
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