cone washer removal (manual hubs)
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cone washer removal (manual hubs)
I need some help on how to remove the cone washers, i've searched around and can't find a real specific way of doing it.
88 toyota pickup, 4wd 22re
88 toyota pickup, 4wd 22re
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You can get those here.http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm. I'll be replacing mine here soon, they're in pretty sad shape.
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whacking the hub body with a hammer works pretty well too. I like to sure that method as I don't have a brass drift and don't want to mess up the threads.
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#13
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Just make sure when you hit the hub you leave the nuts on the end of the studs a thread or two, cone washers fly off into dark corners of the garage otherwise. I probably still have a couple lying around mine, and I sold the 2nd gen 2 years ago.
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And soak 'em in PB Blaster (or similar) many days ahead of project day. Driving around a little to build up some heat after the soaking has been reported to help as well.
Some good advice stated earlier - leave your nuts on (also helps prevent damage by stray hammer blows) Use a brass drift or punch on the hub body or lug nut - if you use it on the edge of the cone washer, use lots of lighter taps instead of a few hard ones. Rubber mallets work wonders without much damage.
Some good advice stated earlier - leave your nuts on (also helps prevent damage by stray hammer blows) Use a brass drift or punch on the hub body or lug nut - if you use it on the edge of the cone washer, use lots of lighter taps instead of a few hard ones. Rubber mallets work wonders without much damage.
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at the junk yard I smack the studs with a hammer first time trying to remove them I used a small flat head screw driver and taped it into the small crack in the cone washers it worked but took forever.
definitely use the drift pin and hammer or thread a nut on the end of the stud to no damage the ends.
definitely use the drift pin and hammer or thread a nut on the end of the stud to no damage the ends.
#18
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What technique to use depends on why the washers are stuck. I have had some hubs where a little tap with a hammer was all it took, the washers nearly flew off the studs. But I have had other cases where the problem was that the ID of the cone washer was a little distorted (probably from a prior removal attempt). On those, I had to use the screwdriver technique to open up the ID of the washer and pull it off of the stud. On that washer, you could bang on the hub or the drift all day long and that washer would not move at all.
On any given hub, I might find 3-5 washers that come off with the hammer/drift techinique, but then 1-3 of them that need the screwdriver. So you need to look all the removal techniques as a bag of tools. What tool you use for a given washer depends on why it is stuck. So often I see folks try one technique, have it not work, and give up.
On any given hub, I might find 3-5 washers that come off with the hammer/drift techinique, but then 1-3 of them that need the screwdriver. So you need to look all the removal techniques as a bag of tools. What tool you use for a given washer depends on why it is stuck. So often I see folks try one technique, have it not work, and give up.
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I used a deep well socket that was just slightly bigger than the washers, make sure that it isn't touching the stud either. Put the socket over the washers up against the hub and tap with a hammer. Has worked well for me plus when the washer flies off, the socket catches it.