Compression Test - Starter won't turn
#1
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Compression Test - Starter won't turn
I've got my 3VZE pulled, still attached to the trans no less (that was a feat of redneck engineering, used TWO engine hoists) and I'm trying to get it to turn over by grounding the negative on the block and touching the positive jumper cable to the starter.
I've got a fully charged battery, and nothing.
Is there some fuse I need to pull to get this to work?
I've got a fully charged battery, and nothing.
Is there some fuse I need to pull to get this to work?
#3
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#4
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#5
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I've just been putting the positive jumper from the battery to the bolt in the picture, and the negative grounding somewhere on the block.
Seems to me that's the only place to put it...
Seems to me that's the only place to put it...
#6
Registered User
The way you have it set up is basically how it is in the truck, when the starter is not in use. The connector right under the stud (where the heavy cable from the battery attaches with the nut) is the solenoid terminal. Connect the heavy jumper cable from the positive terminal of the battery to the stud and the negative jumper from the negative side of the battery to the block. Now use a piece of 14 ga to 16 ga wire and connect from the stud to the spade terminal in the solenoid connection on the starter and the starter will turn. Touching the battery terminal momentarily to the solenoid is the same as turning the key to "start".
#7
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Thread Starter
You da man! I knew someone would eventually give me an answer that wasn't straight out of the FSM.
Good thing I had a fat piece of wire laying around from my subwoofers.
Unfortunately, I now know my engine is crap.
I got 170, 160, 150, 110, and 70. Supposed to be 140. And 0 of course for the cylinder with a broken rod.
Good thing I had a fat piece of wire laying around from my subwoofers.
Unfortunately, I now know my engine is crap.
I got 170, 160, 150, 110, and 70. Supposed to be 140. And 0 of course for the cylinder with a broken rod.
Last edited by T-1000; 05-14-2010 at 07:35 PM.
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#8
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Yea, I'd say you are in for a rebuild. Bummer, but when it's done you should have a "new" engine that'll run for another 200,000 miles or more. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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