Yellowtruck

I just replaced my engine a little over a week ago. After driving it at freeway speeds for a little over a half hour, my light came on. Stopped and counted my flashes and came up with 71 and 14. The 71 I already know about and has been a problem for some time now, just don't feel like spending over $300 to replace my egr valve and sensor.
It's the code 14 that worries me and need some information about. From what I know, it has to do with the ignition/ECU. I just dropped it off with my mechanic to research this, but do any of you have experience code 14??

Problem #2 is I am having trouble shifting into 5th gear. This has been going on since about a month or two before I replaced my engine due to a broken crankshaft. (Warrnty covered that!) All other gears are fine, just 5th. Sometimes it slips right in, but for the most part, it gives me hell trying to slide it into 5th. Doesn't grind, just hard to find that "groove". I do have a lot of sloppiness, but that will be fixed next week after I receive my new bushings from Marlin. If that doesn't make things better...without dropping the tranny and tearing into that mess, do any of you have ideas on this issue??

sb5walker

Marlin's bushings should get you into 5th. If not, look into bleeding your slave or replacing master or slave (oo, kinky) or adjusting your pushrod to give a little more push (raise pedal height if freeplay less than 1/4").

Code 14 is no IGF to ecu. IGF is an ignition confirmation signal sent by igniter to ecu. Either bad igniter, bad igniter ground, bad connection between igniter & ecu, possibly bad ecu, or something is troubling the igniter, possibly bad coil/connection to coil or possibly bad coil/plug wires or cap/rotor or plugs, or possibly bad ground elsewhere, like maybe bad connection between E01/E02 ecu terms and engine block or between E1 & chassis.

I'd clean up the igniter ground and check the resistance of both circuits in the coil. Replace if out of spec. Also check the igniter and coil connectors & clean them up. Clear your computer and see if code comes back.

At the risk of being a nag, I'll mention that with a 3.0, I would think you would want to have your egr working - the combustion temps are higher without it, and the 3.0 doesn't really like being hot too much. Unless you know the egr valve is bad, you shouldn't assume you'll have to replace it. Often the trouble is with the egr modulator, or with clogged tubes that can be cleaned out. Also, you can always get a junkyard/craigs/ebay part for $50 or so if you do need a new valve. In fact it could even be a bad connection at the egr sensor.

Yellowtruck

Thanks for the advice! I'll give all of this a shot as well as show this information to my mechanic today. Sure as hell hope the bushings work.
Recently (w/in the past year) replaced my cap/rotor, plugs ($12 ea) and wires. I hope it's not the ecu, those are pricey.
As for the egr, you're not nagging. I have been aware of all of that for while now. I have taken apart my egr and cleaned out everything that is accessible and it still throws the code. There is really now way to tell if it's the sensor or valve and last time I checked, each part was around $150. Junkyard or used isn't an option to me. I have only ever put nothing but the best parts into my truck and never used. I like the security of "new".

sb5walker

You can check to make sure the egr valve is receiving vacuum - hold rpms around 2500 when motor is hot and pull the vac tube off the egr valve and test for vacuum with your finger. If no vacuum, may be clogged filter in modulator, bad modulator, bad egr vsv or misrouted or clogged vac tubes (they can clog at throttle body if really gummed up).

If you do have vacuum, reattach the tube and give a minute or so (still holding 2500 rpm) and then cautiously feel the iron egr pipe where it goes into the plenum. If the egr is working, it will be hot and you know it's a bad sensor. If the valve isn't working, the pipe where it goes into the plenum will be about the same temp as the plenum.