DupermanDave

I just noticed something recently while getting from a stop to a fast start. If I have teh clutch pushed in and I give it a good amount of gas and quickly let up on the clutch, I can feel the clutch slipping and I slowly accelerate while the clutch fully engages. Is this normal for a factory clutch? If I swap it out for a marlingcrawler clutch (of which users here claim they can never get it to slip) will this issue go away?

abecedarian

No, it's not normal. But before you dive in to the clutch, make sure the thing is adjusted properly. But even if it's just the adjustment, if you keep doing that it will hasten clutch failure.

Tubbyfatty

x2 what abe said.

I JUST replaced my clutch, i only have 10 miles on it. Im telling you, i do not want to do that again. My pilot bearing exploded so it was a pain to get out.

Also, try to bleed the clutch and see if that helps some.

DupermanDave

Dangit, I sort of liked the way it drove like that.

I replaced the clutch before in a 1996 sidekick. I would be able to do it again easily, knowing what has to be done. Especially now that I have a lifted truck, it's a lot easier to get underneath to remove and fix stuff. So I won't be afraid of doing it again.

What do you guys mean make sure everything is adjusted? What is there to adjust? Last clutch-driven vehicle I owned, it was a cable clutch and that's all there was to adjust. I'll do some research on bleeding a clutch system.

-edit-
found out more info about clutch bleeding. Seems pretty easy. How do I determine if the slave cylinder is bad or if the disc is bad?

These use DOT 3 brake fluid, correct?

TNRabbit

IF the clutch is fully DISENGAGING, you don't have a cylinder that is bad. What you're describing is classic worn clutch. As far as I know, there is no adjustment for a hyraulic clutch like there is a cable clutch.

And MarlinCrawler clutches are awesome...

abecedarian

Our trucks have adjustments done at the pedal- there's a clevis on the end of the clutch pushrod that you can disconnect from the pedal and spin to adjust the travel, and IIRC (haven't been under the dash in a while) a stop to set pedal height.

DupermanDave

Okay, the clutch fully disengages. So it's just sounding like a worn out clutch? I guess now I have an excuse. 240,000 and I think this thing has only had one clutch replacement.

DupermanDave

I'm about to dive into the clutch replacement. I was considering replacing the master cylinder too, but at $50+, I'd rather spend that on something else. Is there a way to test the master cylinder? I have made sure it's still full of fluid, has been bled properly, and I have even adjusted the clutch pedal.

My clutch only slips sometimes and right now it seems fine. I haven't gotten it to slip in a few days. It only started doing it again once the wife was learning to drive the stick shift.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

One year later???!

DupermanDave

Yup. The slipping was never a problem but once or twice during the winter. After the second time it happened, I replaced the slave cylinder and it hasn't happened again until about a week ago.

So now I'm thinking it's either grease/oil on the clutch, an old/worn clutch, or a bad master cylinder.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Master cylinder is easier to change. I mean if it's OEM from '89 then it probably seen better days....

DupermanDave

If it was a problem with the master cylinder, wouldn't that just make it harder to shift into gears and put it into neutral?

pruney81

yes, doubt a bad master would make it slip. to see if it's really slipping put it into 4th gear going about 35-40 and mash the gas, or just wait until it totally goes out like I did with my old 87 with 211k miles

thralldad

Just a tip, when you do replace your clutch I think it would be easier to pull the engine than disconnecting both driveshafts and wrestling that huge tranny/transfer case!

Evil.Dingo

I agree with the 50 mph on the highway and mashing the gas in 5th gear. If it slips then its defientely the clutch. Everything else you described sounds like the clutch. It was the same symptoms as mine. I went with the Marlin 1200 ft pd and so far, a year and half later, I still love it.

My clutch was however still ahd alot of meat on it but it was contaminated by the gear case oil due to a bad transmission input seal. When you pull the tranny (Don't pull the engine, way too much work) the seal is behind a cover inside of the tranny bell housing. This could be your problem or combined problem. Either way, since your going to be in there, I would order a input seal so you can put it in. Its a $20.00 part from toyota and if you have that many miles on your truck, it probably needs to be replaced.

pruney81

I would definitely just drop the transmission.
When I did mine last year I just disconnected the rear driveshaft and left everything else together

I did not disconnect my transfer case or the front driveshaft, I just simply moved it out of the way.

Dropped the tranny with a cheap floor jack and 2x4

Stabbing it back in correctly is the hardest part if you choose to do it that way.
My pilot bearing was fine so I just greased it up and left it. Mine only had 98K miles on it though.


Have fun, and I just went with a stock replacement from
http://www.wabfab.org/Clutch-Kits/AI...ypage.tpl.html

My truck is stock so I figured a stock replacement would be sufficient, no need to go heavier, I have about 14K on mine since last August no issues.

And if you choose to replace the fluid I'd go with Redline MT 90 full synthetic

DupermanDave

After the wife made it slip, I borrowed my parent's car for a few days since I needed a reliable means of transportation while I fix the subaru. When the subaru was all done, I tested the clutch on the truck and I floored it in every gear, even 5th, trying my best to get it to slip. I even did this up the steepest hill around. It still couldn't slip again.

When I was in 3rd gear, I got it up to about 4500 RPMS, and as I let it rev down in gear I could hear a metal pinging in the transmission. It sounds like there could possibly be some broken pressure plate splines.

The input seal may be the problem. I was thinking that or the rear main seal. I'm going to buy both and a transmission jack and I'll just do it the transmission route. Once I get the clutch fixed, I think I'll work on the other things. I don't want to get in over my head with more than one repair at a time. Yeah, I'll just get an air mattress, some sheets and blankets and make myself a bed under the truck since I'll be under there all day. lol.

shawns88

I would just replace the clutch if i was you, i had the same thing happen (exept for the pinging) and it was my clutch, replaced it last week now it goes alot better.