Andrewzabomb

New to the Yota scene.
Here we go,
Just replaced the clutch on my 91 4x4 with an excedy oem clutch kit, bolted everything up as normal. Went to hop in the truck and the clutch pedal won't depress. The truck will not go into gear either even after starting it with the "cancel clutch" button. Sort of lose at the moment, any input would be awesome.
Thanks guys

Odin

"Clutch pedal will not depress"

I know you didn't mention it but I'm gunna ask.
Did you replace the Master Cylinder too? Did you mess with the freeplay adjustment?
It sounds like the clutch rod is extended out too far..., not enough freeplay.

If that's not it maybe you got a wrong part in the kit, or you got a bad part, or something is installed wrong.
Double check all the part numbers by application.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You put in a new clutch was the old one worn out slipped all the time.

You looked and compared the new parts with the old in this day that is a must.

the pedal will not move at all!!!

Where the hydraulics replaced?? Did you have the Master Cylinder out??

Could be a few things.

Really wrong clutch parts

bad hydraulic parts which brand did you use??

Clutch Fork and clutch release bearing installed wrong or knocked loose causing it to be unable to move.

clutch pedal unable to move being blocked by something.

Andrewzabomb

I haven't replaced the master or slave cylinder, I'll check the pedal adjustment sometime today as it had been adjusted due to the clutch being worn.
Thanks!

Andrewzabomb

Update: took slave cylinder off, noticed the piston was all the way out and wouldn't budge. Master cylinder pushes fluid through as it should. Purchased a new slave and haven't installed yet. Clutch fork still will not budge. Truck goes into gear while off

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I would be surprised if you could move the clutch fork by hand.

It is a good idea to change all the clutch hydraulics at the same time.

Odin

What he said. New parts functioning at their best may find the weakness in a pressurized system.

I got my truck a few months ago. I noticed the radiator was leaking so I installed a new radiator, new radiator cap, and new upper and lower radiator hoses.

Soon after that the coolant hose to the AICV started leaking so I fixed it. Then my new radiator cap started leaking because it had a faulty gasket so I replaced it. All good right?

WRONG! Now the water pump gasket is leaking, go figure.

Andrewzabomb

update: replaced slave cylinder this morning,the clutch now works fine and the truck moves. Unfortunately, it is stuck in 4-lo. The 4wd light is not illuminated on the dash and the 4wd shifter acts as if it is in a neutral position. it does not go into 2hi/4hi/4lo either. please send help.

RJR

Are you saying the t-case shifter lever won't move, or it moves but the t-case doesn't shift?

First thing I would do is pop the shifter off the top of the t-case and have a look at the shift rails and how the shift lever connects (or not) to them.

Andrewzabomb

The t case level wiggles around but won't find any gears. There was also a spring in there that might not have been placed in the same position. But I hope to see how the lever matches up to the rods inside the shifter later tonight. Thanks!

Andrewzabomb

Update: so I got the truck moving in 2 hi. It shifts through all the drives but the 4wd light doesn't come on and the front diff doesn't engage. I don't think my problem is in the transfer case forks anymore. Any suggestions?

RJR

At this point it sounds like your ADD (automatic differential disconnect) isn't switching. Since you've been messing with the t-case, I'd double check that the connector that senses 2wd/4wd is connected. Otherwise check the vacuum solenoids and vacuum line routing to the front diff.

The way the whole process works is:
- tcase shifts into 4wd and closes a switch.
- that switch engages a relay under the dash.
- Relay switches two vacuum solenoids on the passenger side fender apron to send vacuum to ADD mechanism inside diff.
- Vacuum moves the ADD into engagement in the differential
- ADD engagement closes a switch in the diff.
- That switch lights up your green 4wd light - voila!, you're in 4WD!

Believe it or not, it's a pretty reliable system, but as you can guess, there are a few things that can go wrong. Mostly with electrical connections or with vacuum hoses. The actual ADD mechanism inside the diff is straightforward and pretty solid.