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I recently had a German Heavy Duty Luk clutch, flywheel and bearing kit installed in my 1992 Single Cab 4WD 22RE. The kit seemed very high quality.
New clutch was grabbing great, but the release point was way too early - just a fraction off the clutch and there was immediate engagement. Also, shifting was stiff, as the clutch was apparently not fully disengaged even when pedal was mashed to the floor.
So all the new parts had changed things so that an adjustment was needed. Time to adjust the clutch push rod and pedal- which solved the stiff shifting and restored the release point back to normal. Here's the procedure:
Now time to get at the pushrod and pedal adjustment bolt:
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Now here's how to adjust the pedal height:
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Once my pedal was adjusted to spec, I loosly attached the access panel and drove it around to test. No more stiff shifting and the release point was back to normal. Then I properly snapped, screwed, and bolted the access panel and other parts back together.
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Last edited by HiDesertLux; 10-11-2015 at 08:18 PM.
Reason: Updated with Push Rod Adjustment
I usually eye ball it to be slightly higher then brake pedal, I also had a similar issue with a reverse gear. but it progressively got worst and went on to 1st and 3rd. DON'T BUY AFTERMARKET slaves and masters. Lot of people on here agree. I was afraid I had a internal problem with my synchronizer, turns out master and slave were just cheap POS.
FYI - I've updated the post by adding the push rod adjustment into the equation. I've found clutch push rod and pedal height need to be adjusted together.
Yes, thanks. Adjusted mine today. Also found the spring wasn't connected.
How is the spring supposed to be connected? My clutch pedal had been less than enthusiastic about popping back up in first gear, and I think the spring is the culprit. I will attach a picture to this when I'm out o' work.
On a 92 two wheel drive single cab with 22RE, you don't need to take anything apart to adjust the clutch. The two nuts and the adjusting rod are staring you right in the face if you look up under the dash on the driver side. All you need is two wrenches. Can't say about the clutch pedal height adjustment because mine was right.
On a 92 two wheel drive single cab with 22RE, you don't need to take anything apart to adjust the clutch. The two nuts and the adjusting rod are staring you right in the face if you look up under the dash on the driver side. All you need is two wrenches. Can't say about the clutch pedal height adjustment because mine was right.
Same thing on a 92 4WD 22RE, both adjustments are easy accessible without removing any panels.
Great writeup.
I second the previous post abt not getting aftermarket cylinders. Im no engineer so I cant explain why but they dont work and its very frustrating
I’m trying to adjust the clutch pedal on my 95 Pickup which I picked up last winter and have been wrenching on it since (fairly new to working on cars).
Height:
Clutch pedal’s currently at 5.2” which is 0.3” lower than my brake pedal.
I’m not seeing a locking nut behind the adjustment nut. Instead there’s a split washer making it really tough to turn:
Freeplay:
I’ve got ~18mm of freeplay but I am noticing that the clutch pedal doesn’t always return completely and occasionally gets stuck at the last ~7mm.
I noticed HiDesertLux has a spring going from the part that attaches to the pushrod back to somewhere on the body. Is that my issue?
A buddy of mine replaced the master and slave cylinders within the last 1200 miles. Maybe he forgot to put the spring back?
Clutch seems to be engaging fine (~1” off the floor). Sometimes I have issues engaging 1st and Reverse
What brand master and slave cylinders? I know buying new parts is never fun but if theyre not aisin, youre going to go thru a lot of unneccesary headaches. They arent that much more expensive than any other brand. Im sure youre buddy is a good mechanic but its just one of those things with these trucks.
but more to the point, what exactly is the problem?
just 1st and reverse? Kind of a typical problem, depending on the severity and frequncy of the problem.
the other thing to look at is flex from the firewall itself when the pedal is depressed. Thin sheet metal here not reinforced overtime will start to crack.
is the pedal binding somewhere when it doesnt come all the way back or is it like there isnt enough hydraulic pressure?
Last edited by swampedout; 03-05-2020 at 07:46 PM.
They are definitely Aisin brand. Turns out the locknut on the adjustment rod was loose! I rotated clockwise like HiDesertLux instructed until the rod had little to no play. My clutch pedal propped back up into place, now it’s more or less at the same level as my brake pedal. Clutch engages ~2” off the floor which is apparently ideal.
I managed to change out my transmission and transfer case fluids with Redline MT90 tonight as well. Just got back from a test drive and my god—the shifting 1000x smoother. 1st pops in no problem and no more grinding when going into reverse.
10-03-2015, 09:23 PM
