Clutch master/slave bleeder screw
#1
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Location: Post Falls, Idaho
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Clutch master/slave bleeder screw
I can't find the bleeder screw on my '91 4 runner 3 VZE to bleed the master cylinder. Thanks for any help.
#2
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That's because there isn't a bleeder screw on the MC. There's one on the slave, though.
To bleed the MC, you have to pull hard line fitting off and away. Any auto parts store should have brake bleeder kits that come with fittings and bleeder hoses. I don't know if there's one for clutches. If so, it'll be the same basically, except you only need one fitting and one hose. Anyway, in either case, screw the bleeder fitting into the MC body, attach a hose to it, route the free end of the hose to the reservoir with clean fluid. Have someone pump the clutch pedal until you see no more air bubbles. Of course, you can also gravity bleed the MC. Just attach the hose and fitting, let the fluid drain into a bucket or something, and continue to fill the reservoir until the draining fluid is clean and no air bubbles are present. It's easy and shouldn't take but a few minutes.
To bleed the MC, you have to pull hard line fitting off and away. Any auto parts store should have brake bleeder kits that come with fittings and bleeder hoses. I don't know if there's one for clutches. If so, it'll be the same basically, except you only need one fitting and one hose. Anyway, in either case, screw the bleeder fitting into the MC body, attach a hose to it, route the free end of the hose to the reservoir with clean fluid. Have someone pump the clutch pedal until you see no more air bubbles. Of course, you can also gravity bleed the MC. Just attach the hose and fitting, let the fluid drain into a bucket or something, and continue to fill the reservoir until the draining fluid is clean and no air bubbles are present. It's easy and shouldn't take but a few minutes.
#3
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Thanks thook, I screwed up and meant the bleeder valve on the slave. Found the slave and bleeder. Opened it up and fluid was coming out pretty fast, had to keep filling up the master with DOT3. Probably a good 2-3 oz. Then it slowed down to a slow drip. Still have it open now and it's a slow drip. So does this sound typical for having air in the line. I could depress in the clutch all the way and still had a hard time putting it in gear especially reverese, checked the master and it was dry. So hopefully this will solve the problem. This one is my wifes truck and I never drive it, she always tells me a problem when it's too late like, " Honey when I put on the brakes it sounds like grinding metal" my fault for not keeping up on the maintenance.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
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OK, that didn't work. Still the same problem especially in reverse, grinds bad. The clutch pedal seems pretty soft too compared to my '88 runner. There's no fluid leaks in the driveway so now I don't know what the problem is. I only gravity bled the system. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
#7
Did you ever get that fixed im having the same problem I just put a new clutch in and after I put it in my pedal seemed extremely soft. I went ahead and replaced the master and slave cylinders they were gross and full of black goo. I wasnt to surprised as my truck is 17 years old. The master I got makes a weird air noise so im going to pull it out and rebuild my old aisin I got a fenco from autozone and it really seemed cheezy. And is makes a hissing noise when i start to press the pedal. Let us all know when you get this one solved I can get it in to 1-5 gear but reverse just grinds like a mofo. Hopefully tomorrow ill get the master rebuilt and put back in man its hard to get that bottom bolt out and im tired of contorting myself upside down in drivers seat to pull that pin for the pedal everyone was laughing at me when they saw my upside down in my seat. I just wanna drive my yota while i get parts for my 3.4 swap. First time ive ever been disappointed in my yota although its me not the yota. Anyways keep me posted. and Man its a pita to bleed the slave 2 people or not. never seen so much dot3 in my life.
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#8
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Not sure why it's taking a lof of brake fluid to bleed your clutch hydraulics. There's not much line to bleed. Hmmm...
Anyway, when you install a new MC, make sure the pedal adjustments are correct or you'll still have problems.
Anyway, when you install a new MC, make sure the pedal adjustments are correct or you'll still have problems.
#9
Still haven some trouble I adjusted the pedal height and got it maxed out. Back fed the fluid with a brake bleeder pump to make sure no air and im still not getting enough throw to get it in reverse. Any ideas. I just replaced both master and slave cylinders. but just need a little more throw.
#10
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When I replaced my clutch m/c about 10 years ago, we bled it by loosening the hard line fitting out of the m/c after pressing down the pedal and holding it there. Then tighten the fitting and release the pedal and repeat until no air escapes from the hard line fitting.
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