Choke doesnt close until after first startup
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Choke doesnt close until after first startup
Rebuilt my carb, and having a weird issue where I cant get it to fire when cold because the choke isnt closing, but if I spray starting fluid in it to get it to start, the choke then closes once it's running, and stays closed until warm.
Any suggestions?
Choke when cold prior to first-fire:
Choke after starting w/ starter fluid
Any suggestions?
Choke when cold prior to first-fire:
Choke after starting w/ starter fluid
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, tried pumping it three times before cranking.
Accelerator pump works too, obviously cant hear it from inside the cabin, but if I work the throttle by hand you can hear it squirt
Accelerator pump works too, obviously cant hear it from inside the cabin, but if I work the throttle by hand you can hear it squirt
Last edited by slimbobaggins; 12-12-2014 at 01:52 PM.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Okay, finally got the truck to fire without starting fluid, but it took an act of congress... like 100 pedal pumps total over multiple crankings over about 5 minutes time.
My carb has definitely still got to have some major problems.
1) Sometimes the accelerator pump would making a squirting sound, and sometimes it didn't, when working it by hand. Looking down into the carb, when it did "squirt," it was more of a little dribble. Should it be a forceful "squirt" coming out of the tube?
2) The carb clearly isn't moving around on the stepped idle thing on the back. When I was able to get it to crank, it was trying to idle at 700 rpms. I had to physically reach back there and push it up on the stepped thing to raise the idle for cold idle, and then it didn't gradually come off it as it warmed up. The truck was completely warm and still running at high idle, until I reached back there and fiddled with it again.
I thought I got all the linkage and everything hooked up correctly when I put the carb back together, but maybe not. Does anyone have any good pics of their carb linkage?
Any other suggestions?
Help, anyone?
My carb has definitely still got to have some major problems.
1) Sometimes the accelerator pump would making a squirting sound, and sometimes it didn't, when working it by hand. Looking down into the carb, when it did "squirt," it was more of a little dribble. Should it be a forceful "squirt" coming out of the tube?
2) The carb clearly isn't moving around on the stepped idle thing on the back. When I was able to get it to crank, it was trying to idle at 700 rpms. I had to physically reach back there and push it up on the stepped thing to raise the idle for cold idle, and then it didn't gradually come off it as it warmed up. The truck was completely warm and still running at high idle, until I reached back there and fiddled with it again.
I thought I got all the linkage and everything hooked up correctly when I put the carb back together, but maybe not. Does anyone have any good pics of their carb linkage?
Any other suggestions?
Help, anyone?
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
I tried pressing the throttle thinking it would kick off high idle, and it didn't do anything. That's when I went back and pushed on it by hand, and it came off high idle then.
I really like EFI too, but it's not worth converting this truck over. This is my only carb'ed vehicle and will likely be the last carb'ed vehicle I own, unless I get an old muscle car some day.
#7
Registered User
Main adjustment is by turning the black heater element.
Look at the pic you posted. The marks on the top of the choke body are to help in adjusting.
These electric chokes take me way back to the VW Solex carb days of my youth.
Edit: It is an electric heater is'nt it?? Does'nt really matter I guess, has to be heated by exhaust heat or electric, both types work the same.
Look at the pic you posted. The marks on the top of the choke body are to help in adjusting.
These electric chokes take me way back to the VW Solex carb days of my youth.
Edit: It is an electric heater is'nt it?? Does'nt really matter I guess, has to be heated by exhaust heat or electric, both types work the same.
Last edited by millball; 12-12-2014 at 06:48 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Main adjustment is by turning the black heater element.
Look at the pic you posted. The marks on the top of the choke body are to help in adjusting.
These electric chokes take me way back to the VW Solex carb days of my youth.
Edit: It is an electric heater is'nt it?? Does'nt really matter I guess, has to be heated by exhaust heat or electric, both types work the same.
Look at the pic you posted. The marks on the top of the choke body are to help in adjusting.
These electric chokes take me way back to the VW Solex carb days of my youth.
Edit: It is an electric heater is'nt it?? Does'nt really matter I guess, has to be heated by exhaust heat or electric, both types work the same.
I'm not retarded, I promise. I'm just... young, only 30. Never had to deal with a carburetor before this. Been deep in engines, just literally know nothing about carburetors.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,252
Likes: 0
Received 820 Likes
on
648 Posts
I know a fair bit about carburetors, but not on a Toyota, so my comments are only general.
When I had a very similar problem on an S-10, it turned out to be just too much friction in the external linkages. On that carburetor, some pieces literally relied on gravity to fall into position when cold. A tiny bit of dirt in the linkages kept them from falling into place (without a finger-tip push). I carefully cleaned all the linkages and pivot points, and put the tiniest drop of oil in the bushing, and it worked fine.
I emphasize restraint with oil. The carburetor is sitting in the dusty air flow, and any exposed oil will turn into viscous sludge, exactly where you don't need it.
I think I can say my experience with the S-10 is what convinced me that electronic fuel injection is a very good thing.
When I had a very similar problem on an S-10, it turned out to be just too much friction in the external linkages. On that carburetor, some pieces literally relied on gravity to fall into position when cold. A tiny bit of dirt in the linkages kept them from falling into place (without a finger-tip push). I carefully cleaned all the linkages and pivot points, and put the tiniest drop of oil in the bushing, and it worked fine.
I emphasize restraint with oil. The carburetor is sitting in the dusty air flow, and any exposed oil will turn into viscous sludge, exactly where you don't need it.
I think I can say my experience with the S-10 is what convinced me that electronic fuel injection is a very good thing.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
81 Posts
All good advice so far, but the fall back plan, if you can't get the automatic feature working properly, is to just put on a manual cable and operate the choke from inside the cab. It's a pretty simple algorithm - if the engine is cold, use the choke; if it's hot, don't. If it's in between, use choke lightly. I grew up with hand operated chokes on our farm tractors and trucks, and it doesn't take long to become smarter than the automatic controllers.
Plus no thief will be able to get it started if it's been sitting for a while and he doesn't know to pull the choke button.
Plus no thief will be able to get it started if it's been sitting for a while and he doesn't know to pull the choke button.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have considered converting to manual choke, but don't have any idea where to get a kit locally to do so. Are there generic kits, or would that be carb specific?
Im pulling the carb off tomorrow to inspect everything and clean the linkage. Thanks for all the suggestions, I will report back.
Im pulling the carb off tomorrow to inspect everything and clean the linkage. Thanks for all the suggestions, I will report back.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got the carb off and the linkage is either bound up some place that's not immediately obvious, or got gunked up somehow between when I cleaned it and when I installed it. Not enough attention to detail on my part.
Going to take it apart and clean at some point this week, and hope for better results this weekend.
Going to take it apart and clean at some point this week, and hope for better results this weekend.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zytra
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
32
01-24-2019 03:16 PM
PNW94Runner
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
09-29-2015 02:55 PM