Kaydon

So as some may or may not know, the head gasket blew again..

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/2843/yota076pj7.jpg


It isn't the greatest picture in the world I know, but...


To the right, the grooves in the timing cover. It isn't really cut into, just where the chain has slapped against it. Should I be concerned with this?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

thats not the water pump thats the timing cover. When the chain starts cutting into that, it cuts into the water jacket behind the water pump.

That could be the cause of your failed head gasket. You will need to weld it up, or get a new timing cover.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

btw what was your reasoning for saying the head gasket blew? If you just got oil in the water, this may be the cause. Once a hole is worn in the cover, it will allow coolant in and down into the oil, thus giving you the indication of a blown head gasket.

Kaydon

Oops. lol,

Sigh. I really don't want to have to take it off, that's a lot more work than I planned. I asked my dad to check it out and he doesn't think it's anything to worry about. The guy at NAPA while I was dropping the head off to check that out and he said just bring it to central machine and welding and have them weld it up and then bring it back to NAPA and they'd machine it down flush. The guy at Central isn't a pretty welder, he does a good job he's just not neat with his beads.

Well, water is in the oil. The gasket had oil on top of it at the #4 cylinder, click me for picture. It looks like #3 I know, but back corner of #4 is the failure point.. I drained the rad and only like a pint came out, when I drained the oil pan about 2 quarts of water came out before the oil. I had a loss in coolant before the gasket blew and I topped it off with water and then a couple weeks later it died on me on the way to work. Should I have the rad pressure tested?

The head is at the machine shop getting resurfaced (again), pressure tested, checked for cracks and a valve job.


I figure I might as well tell you all.. This is the 3rd gasket in less than 2 years. My buddy owned the truck before me and it blew on him, then my dad and I fixed it, then it blew on me and now I am left to fix it. I really don't wanna go through this again. It may only take me 2 hours to tear the top end down, but still.. big pain in the ass - not to mention it's breaking my bank.


Edit: here's a better pic of the grooves

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

almost sounds like its time for a new engine.

3 head gasket failures in two years tells me A. there is something wrong with the engine or B. It hasn't been done correctly those 3 times.

If the block is warped, you could put 40 gaskets on there and its just going to keep doing the same thing. And if its the 3rd machining of the head, it should be out of spec now, or just on the edge. That will cause failures as well.

Kaydon

Well.. Here's more bad news, lol.

When my friend owned it and it blew with him as owner, when we took the head off there was 2 gaskets there

I don't think the head was machined until we did it, and the guy at NAPA said it was fine and he's been doing it for years..

Between the time we did it and now, was a period of about 4 months. Ran fine, aside from an annoying lifter tick.

If it blows again, I'm going to locate a 22R and swap in, to hell with EFI! or a v6.. I guess time will tell if it's going to fail.


Now, btw.. here's something else..

My dad did the torquing on it last time of the head bolts.. Well, when I went to use the torque wrench to break them and see what they were breaking loose at, it was at 15-45 lbs, only 3 broke at 70lbs, in the middle.

My dad said we were supposed to re-torque them after it ran, is this true? Could this of been the error to cause it to fail?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

should never have to retorque them.

However, if you do not clean out the holes, and lubricate the bolts with a light coat of motor oil, you can have issues like you are describing.

Kaydon

This shall be an interesting turn of events..

Guess I'll have a look into fixing the timing cover..

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

that is a heated debate to retorque or not. i use new head bolts, oem headgasket, and clean out the holes, totally drain the block, and retorque after 100 miles. dip the new bolts in oil. i use a syringe to suck out all the fluid in the bolt holes. if you t-cover is leaking you could always do the dual chain set up from LCE. have you checked to see if the deck is flat?

Kaydon

Well, my dad used to work on John Deere tractors for about 35 years or so, and I guess he's used to doing it like that.

Oh I'm using new bolts and gaskets from Fel Pro. I use the syringe as well, and the air gun w/ a rag over it to get it nice and clean/dry.

Well that's the thing, I don't know if it's leaking or not.

I doubt I have the funds to swing for the dual chain kit.

Deck=top of block? No, haven't, I want to but my dad disagrees heh.

Matt16

Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge to see if you need to deck the block. The fact that there were two head gaskets on at once suggests that it was a half-arsed attempt to shim it up after it had been decked too many times. Thats just a shot in the dark there, but maybe.

90redyota

Hey I'm new to the forum. I have a 90 yota pick-up with a 22re, I also have a blown head gasket at the moment. Mine blew 2 years after having a rebuilt 22re put in. I have a buddy who is a toyota wiz, he told me to stay away from Fel-Pro head gaskets because a lot of the time they are bad out of the box. I hope this helps.

tampabayota

you should re torque the head bolts after running a half hour

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i use OEM head gasket with no sealer. i agree with the straight edge and feeler gauge to check the top of the block. and i wipe all mating surface with acetone and paper towels till clean. did you drain the block with the little bolt by the exhaust?