tyes

Car won’t start after warm up??
1986 T4R 22re 5speed DLX / Winch / Taurus E fan + 2 60amp relay w/ switch, manual control /

My car won’t start after a short drive, a long drive, engine warm up, after motor is running, and or after motor has just started up and shut down.
Here is the story, this truck runs awesome, not a leak, a noise, and can run really well. But it can not start at all. First it died on me at home depot. I drove there like normal and came back 30 minutes later to find out I’m not able to start the car.

I put in the key, step on the clutch and turn to start, and click. Again and again, it clicks… all the lights that you usually see is on and bright. I even try to turn on the head lights and it continues to be bright. Had a buddy came by and jumped it. I was home free. Thinking that it was the battery I went and had it switched out, since it was under warranty. They said it was pulling 12.66v but holding a charge after cranking… didn’t really bother me since I got a new battery. New battery went into the truck and after 2 days, I was in the same boat. I have a portable battery jumper and used it on and off and find out that it does the trick for so long. Somehow it lead me to the starter one day when the battery jumper thing didn’t work anymore. I end up banging on it a few times with a hammer and it worked. So I switched out a started that I had laying around. Testing the one laying around was good. With a different starter, same issue. nothing. I just switched out the COR sensor with one I had laying around. No changes. I checked the fuel pump and it’s working. I also switched out the Coolant Temp Sensor. Nothing changes. I ran a test on the AFM like 4Crawler; http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml, Under dynamic test #2, everything worked out except for the last test. When I push the flaps slowly the meter starts to climb like it’s suppose to but, I see OL come one at least 1x. I also checked all the grounds and also reground a main wire the battery directly to the frame. I actually grinded paint off and bolted that sucker on. Still nothing. I checked the distributer and everything seems to be fine. There is no burns markings inside. And rotor looks good.
NOW I am clueless. Please command me and I will do. I think my battery does not have enough cranking power. My E fan is wired directly to the battery with a switch that I control inside. Same would go to my winch.

scope103

If your symptom is "turn the key and all I get is loud click," it's NOT the COR, Temp Sensor, distributor, rotor, or AFM (your AFM may be no good based on your test, but its not causing your start problem).

Stick your voltmeter on the battery, and turn the key to start (to get the click). If the voltage stays above 12v its the starter or cabling. If the voltage drops below 11v or so, its the battery. It probably is NOT the battery.

While it might be the cable (you can check that by doing the same voltmeter test, but at the starter, not at the battery), it sure sounds like the starter. Why do you think your current starter was one you "had laying around"?

Search here for "starter rebuild" to see how to look at the contacts. You can even start with the one you just took out, and is now the one that is "laying around."

sechott

Sound like the classic starter solenoid relay trouble to me. Relays seem to not like heat when they act up.

coryc85

Yeah, either starter relay or starter contact issues:

Read thru this guy's build thread, he has some great troubleshooting on the starter relay.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51952166

If that's not it, buy some contacts from Roger Brown and change them, real cheap and real easy.