Guardian_Saint

Try to restart but UN-successful. Check all the fuses and all seem to be fine. No check engine light was on. Key in the ignition and door wide open with out the buzz sound. Then, at the fuse box inside the engine compartment. I was messing with the fuse box and I somehow trigger a "live" buzz sound, telling you that your key is still in the ignition. I thought I had it figure out but when it fire up. I turn on the head lights and the car went back off. Have to wiggle and pulling the fuse box again to get it start back up. Every time I try to turn on the head light, it would shut down the car in a second. I may have short circuit between the head lamp and power? When this happen. I have no sparks to the wire, headlamp, and radio do not work.

No experience in electrical work before so I am tackling this tomorrow and see what I can find. See if I have to bypass any wire's and stuff...

RAD4Runner

Sounds like intermittent loss of connection somewhere. Look closely, inspect your fuse box and wires, wiggle one wire at a time until you find what's causing it to work and not to work.

Also check your battery connector for corrosion and if its secure.

Guardian_Saint

Thank you, sir... A buddy also told me about the wire connector. He has the same problem and it turn out to be one wire that shared with the power was broken off. So I am getting to narrow this down to the wire. It must be shared with the engine power source. I don't know if there is a relay for that and it can be bad? Today I will inspect all the wire's in the fuse box and might head to the scrap yard, and yank all the big fuses. I report back see what happen...

I'll check the connector to the battery see what happen.

Guardian_Saint

Didn't see any loose wire so far. Yank some more wire under the dash. Some how I got it all working again... No more stalled. Weird... Maybe a bad fuse box. See how it goes and a bit scary to drive it off some where. Might get a fuse box when I found one.

RAD4Runner

Another simple thing you might want to consider:
A fuse may look OK visually. It may even pass a resistance check. However, a defect may cause it to have intermittent contact or heat up and raise its resistance when current runs through it.

Look at you schematic for fuses that supply current to your ignition, EFI, and fuel pump systems, swap them with known good fuse of same value (i.e., horn, hazard, headlight, charge...). See if problem goes away.

If no fuse to swap with, probe voltage across suspect fuse while doing things you think make truck die, or while you're having issue. Good fuse should have almost zero volt across it even while carrying load current.

Good luck.

oldblue

check your battery and the battery terminals before you chase your tail

Guardian_Saint

Thanks. I will have to replace all the fuses since they look like it benn sitting there for too long. My connector still look original but is not corroded. I need to replace that as well. But today, I turn on my interior light and the car was about to stall on me and causing my radio to muted. Guess i have to replace my fuse box since it was in an accident that got the fuse box hit and now it is holding by a small rope to hold it in place...

Guardian_Saint

So yesterday it died again... More yanking and got it home safe. That's it for this car. So today I went to the scrap yard. Found a 1991 fuse box in great shape. Cut all the wire and kept all the plug in there in case I might need it. After that, I got home and started to tear my fuse box out, and you know what... Here some picture proof. I knew it.





The bad fuse box.


Don't know how it can cause it to burnt out... Didn't need to do any cut and splicing. I pulled out the pin out and move it to the new one. All good now that I hope it doesn't do it again. Cross finger...