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Can't get truck to run

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Old 05-20-2009, 04:43 PM
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Can't get truck to run

Ive got a 1994 Toyota Pickup V6 5Speed. new head gasket, radiator and all new gaskets from the head up. new plugs, relay and timing belt. im getting spark, fuel, air and its perfectly timed. it turns over but wont start. i have run out of ideas. any help is greatly appreciated. I NEED to get out of this minivan.
Old 05-20-2009, 04:47 PM
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Did you plug back the wires for the MAF?
Old 05-20-2009, 04:53 PM
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all wires are plugged in spark plugs, allvaccums, maf, alternator, everything
Old 05-20-2009, 05:27 PM
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hmm... spark, fuel and air... so does it seem to be flooding out? as in you smell gas in the intake or exhaust?
Old 05-20-2009, 05:31 PM
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it floods on the first crank
Old 05-20-2009, 06:11 PM
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and when you disconnect the duct to the air filter and use starting fluid it starts and runs?
Old 05-22-2009, 11:17 AM
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ducting connected or unconnected still no start, not even with starting fluid
Old 05-22-2009, 11:31 AM
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If nothing with starting fluid I'm really leaning toward spark...if it were timing you'd at least get a backfire...
Old 05-22-2009, 11:31 AM
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You mentioned that it's perfectly timed, if it won't run how did you time it? Just wondering.

With that in mind I'm thinking that the timing may actually be a few degrees off. I think there was someone on here a while back that went through a bunch of these issues and it turned out that the timing was way off. If I recall it was right after a head gasket replacement.


That's all I have so far.
Old 05-22-2009, 11:46 AM
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How do you know the timing is correct if it can't start? First thing I would do is double verify that your #1 spark plug is connected to #1 on cap and at TDC of compression stroke, then make sure the rest are in the right firing order. This is assuming that the gear didn't shift during the timing belt swap.
Old 05-22-2009, 12:46 PM
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I'm guessing:

1 - Distributor is 180 degrees out
2 - Distributor is bad (happens when you take them out if they're on the verge and these trucks are getting up in years).

Do you get ANY hits at all? Does it at least TRY to run? If you have fuel, spark, and air, the only variable is timing.
Old 05-22-2009, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by UsaTuff
ducting connected or unconnected still no start, not even with starting fluid
Well, unless the distributor is around 180 degrees out, and maybe even then, you'd at least get a pop or such when the spark plug fires.
If you're not sure it's all together right, (I wouldn't be sure of it at this point), rotate the engine over so the timing marks on the crank pulley and indicator are lined up, pull the valve covers and make sure that #1 cylinder's valves both have clearance and the distributor rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder's plug wire terminal on the cap.
If both aren't true, you've found your problem.
Old 05-23-2009, 04:24 AM
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Lumpy When i take the spark pllug out and set it on a good ground I can get a blue spark from it. Last night I did get a back fire. For some reason if i let it sit for 48 hours it'll get really close to starting but won't.

Junkers88 I lined up the pulley on the crank to 0. Then ran the belt on that nice and tight up to the water pump and tightly on to the right cam, which was already on mark and same for the rest then tighten the tensioner.

Mr.Peepers All the plugs are connect to the right spot on the distributor and we have it a TDC.

TNRabbit We had purposely turn the distributer out 180 degrees to get it to pop and it did last night. Then when we put it back in 180, nothing happens. Also strangely, when i took the rotor off, for the first time, it was so loose it almost fell off its self?

Abecedarian Yes, the valves have clearance and the distributer is back and is facing the #1 plug.
Old 05-23-2009, 06:13 AM
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Try changing the cap and rotor then...
Old 05-23-2009, 08:59 AM
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I'm stumped.--don't know what else to tell you. Anyone else got a guess?
Old 05-26-2009, 06:56 AM
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Not sure if you have had any luck. I have had a similar issue before that stumped me for a while on a different car. I had a visible blue spark, fuel, and the timing hadn't been messed with so I tried everything. After going through the manual again, I saw the spec for the spark, and I had no way to test it so I went to pep boys and bought a spark tester that actually determines teh spark voltage by how far it can jump across the adjustment screw. The ignition coil metered fine witht those static tests, but wasn't pushing near the voltage to spec, so I bught a new one. A couple people told me it couldn't have been the coil because in their words "coils never go bad". Bought new coil, put it on, started right up.
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