1990Runner

I just had a bunch of work done on my 91 4-runner( my profile name is a typo) .
The list is the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, press. plate, clutch master cyl, slave cyl, and the steering gear. that sucked. So anyway, my mechanic pointed out that all 4 off my cv boots need replaced. By the way. my truck has 125,000 on it

1- with my milage, do i replace the cv joints too
or what other parts while im in there?

2- I read that it would be good to change to locking hubs
instead of ADD so my half shafts are not always turning
saving gas and wear n tear. any advice/ experiance would
be great thanks

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

1. Just replace the whole assy, boots and all. Complete assys can be had for cheap at wrecking yards, or decent prices reman.

2. You will still have ADD, you are simply replacing the lock plates at the spindle with manual locking hubs. If you dont mind locking the hubs for 4 wheel drive, this is a GREAT mod. Wont save you much if any gas, but it WILL save on wear and tear.

hmmwv15

Don't quote me on this, but when one of my cv boots tore, I just cleaned out the joints/bearings really good and replaced both the inner and outer boots on that cv. Just make sure nothing is worn real bad and I would think you should only have to replace the boots.

hmmwv15

haha I thought I was the first to post...I would take the advice from DC before me!

1990Runner

you dont think that buying new ones would be better? and what brand hubs do you reccomend?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

AISIN hubs. The only way to go.

Buying new ones wouldn't neccesarily be "better" but if you have never replaced CV boots before, it would be a whole lot easier.

Squeebs

Just do the entire axle while they are in there.


I had a torn boot, drivers side... got the axle for $70, payed a buddy $50 to install it. Took him all of 1 hour.

disassemble

i got a referbished axle for prob about 80 bucks and gave my buddy 40 to install also took about an hour maybe 2 cause we were BSing... and lifetime warantee