Bypassing Door Control Module
#1
Bypassing Door Control Module
After finishing up replacing my cracked engine head last night at midnight, today I drove my 4runner to school. The engine ran great, but while parking I tried to roll my power windows up and I heard a pop under the dash and the windows stopped working. All the fuses are fine, and my power locks still work, the rear window still works, but my front windows won't go up or down. After checking a few junkyards it seems that nobody has the one I need. My question is if anyone has had this problem and has bypassed the door control module? I'm thinking about just running a always hot power wire with an inline fuse from my battery straight to my doors and have the windows on at all times.
I'm in the process of selling my truck and need these windows to work!
I'm in the process of selling my truck and need these windows to work!
#2
Registered User
I just did this today...
Almost got the module working, but then I think a bad window switch fried it. Anyway, I just jumped the hot (white/red) wire coming in to the wire everyone is talking about powering up from the battery. (blue red)
Works fine, windows work faster than with the module and with the key off. I left the module plugged in for the power locks. The jumper is pretty cheesy, and has the potential for high resistance, and therefore heat/melting--granted it didn't get hot when I tested the windows so I think it's fine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/8004057372/http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/8004057372/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/mortonphotographic/, on Flickr
Almost got the module working, but then I think a bad window switch fried it. Anyway, I just jumped the hot (white/red) wire coming in to the wire everyone is talking about powering up from the battery. (blue red)
Works fine, windows work faster than with the module and with the key off. I left the module plugged in for the power locks. The jumper is pretty cheesy, and has the potential for high resistance, and therefore heat/melting--granted it didn't get hot when I tested the windows so I think it's fine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/8004057372/http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/8004057372/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/mortonphotographic/, on Flickr
Last edited by MortonPhotographic; 09-19-2012 at 12:01 PM.
#3
You can fix it by opening it and putting some silver solder on the circuitboard where the trace burns on the high current side of the board. I have already done it and the window module works great.
#4
Registered User
Ok, so I jumper'd per Morton's post (greatly appreciated Morton!) and now my passenger window is working, and the door locks are still working. Both motors work, circuit breaker works, so I guess the only thing left is to try and figure out the master control switch, which allows me to roll passenger up and down if I hold my mouth a certain way. Driver's side does nothing but click at me a little. Maybe I am not getting enough power to the motor? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated at this point!
Rob in CO
Rob in CO
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