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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 02-25-2013, 08:07 AM   #1
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Broke small bolt in end of cv axle...whoops!!

hey guys, was doing front brakes and bearings on a buddies 94 4runner and when re-assembling he over torqued the small gold bolt that goes into the end of the axle... What is the purpose of that bolt and washer? We just put the end cap back on for now but I am wondering if its ok to leave the broken bolt in the axle. I couldn't quite figure out what its purpose was.

Any input would be appreciated!
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:28 AM   #2
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It keeps the axle splines in the hub! Without that bolt if he flexes the suspension very much it could pull the axle out of the hub! Then your screwed! If you can get the broken bolt out you can replace the axle and just find a replacement bolt
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:51 AM   #3
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It keeps the axle splines in the hub!
No, I don't think so. The axle is held in the hub by the snap ring/circlip.

So, you should ask, what IS the purpose of the "gold" bolt? I don't know, but I think it is to just make it easier to assemble at the factory.

In any event, I wouldn't have a lot of confidence that a bolt tightened to only 13 ftlbs could hold the axle in if you really pulled on it.

You could probably leave it as-is and not die. But since you broke the bolt by over-torquing it on assembly (as opposed to having it corroded-in-place), you can probably remove it with an "easy-out." Or with a left-hand drill bit made for just that purpose. That's what I would do.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:18 AM   #4
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Yea, the c clip is what hold the CV axel in place. I always viewed that bolt as a back-up to the c-clip. I don't think beyond that it has a purpose.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:56 AM   #5
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On vehicles with free wheeling hubs, it would also keep the free wheeling hub from falling off if all of the studs holding it to the axle hub sheared(or all their nuts fell off, and all their cone washers backed out and fell off too). Which isn't very likely, in any event.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:31 AM   #6
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no c clip on driveplates correct?? only lockable and auto hubs? i dont recall there being a c clip on my 95 when i did my hub conversion but i could be wrong.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:04 PM   #7
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Red face

We all break one sooner or later .

No big deal to drill it out and use the thread replacement of your choice.

I have yet to see a axle with a snap ring yet.

It is not so much the bolt but the washer under it
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #8
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That bolt keeps the shaft tight and centered in the flange, It'll also keep the clip tight against the flange and centered.

With out that bolt tight it can cause a balance problem and increased wear on the mating surfaces.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:25 PM   #9
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The bolt and washer don't keep nothing centered(there's bushings/bearings for that) and/or tight against anything. In fact, with the bolt torqued to specs, the washer spins freely(doesn't bottom out against anything). That's probably one reason why people snap the bolts, they keep trying to tighten them until the washer hits something and feels tight(when it's not supposed to).
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:53 PM   #10
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Thanks for the replies! It sounds like there is a bit of confusion about that bolt and washer... Either way we are going to try and drill it out and maybe try an easyout extractor on it. Hopefully it threads back out and we can just throw a new bolt in there!
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
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That bolt keeps the shaft tight and centered in the flange, It'll also keep the clip tight against the flange and centered.

With out that bolt tight it can cause a balance problem and increased wear on the mating surfaces.
Nope.

That's what spindle bushings are for...
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:36 AM   #12
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The bolt is necessary. It is a backup in case the c clip fails to hold the axle in. You will be ok without it for on road driving. But fix it for off-roading. I got myself stuck once because apparently after doing my axle boots, I forgot to put the bolt in. I was turning while driving through sand and the axle slipped out of the hub. I took it apart and found the c clip had stretched and the bolt was gone. It was a new c clip. I installed a random bolt with a big washer from somewhere else on the truck and got it un-stuck. Moral of the story: Fix it properly! Btw, if it broke because of over-torquing, you might be able to get it out with just a pick or something.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:33 AM   #13
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A little trick is to place a small nut over the end of a broken stud or bolt and fill the center of the nut up with a Mig. welder. The heating/cooling effect will help break the bond in the case of rusted nuts. I.M.O. More parts are broken/worn out by overtightened bolts than under tightened parts.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:43 AM   #14
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A little trick is to place a small nut over the end of a broken stud or bolt and fill the center of the nut up with a Mig. welder. The heating/cooling effect will help break the bond in the case of rusted nuts. I.M.O. More parts are broken/worn out by overtightened bolts than under tightened parts.
I thought about using the welder to get it out, but unfortunately it broke about a 1/4" into the axleshaft so I would probably get weld all over the threads in the axle
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:32 AM   #15
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The bolt is necessary. It is a backup in case the c clip fails to hold the axle in.
Ding ding ding.
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:30 AM   #16
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I thought about using the welder to get it out, but unfortunately it broke about a 1/4" into the axleshaft so I would probably get weld all over the threads in the axle
A tiny dab of jb weld on a smaller bolt, butted up to the broken bolt and taped in place until the jb dries (use jb quick set). Then un-thread it. This may work if the broken bolt is not too tight. Just be careful not to get any on the threads.
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:30 AM
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03, 07, avatar, axel, axle, bolt, bolts, boot, broke, broken, cv, damaged, fireman, fj, gx470, snapped, toyota, tundra

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