Break-in Protocol
01-20-2011, 10:35 AM
#1
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Break-in Protocol
hey guys... getting another rebuilt 22r to drop in my 87, weber/k&n, tri y, 2.25 exhaust, flowmaster, no cat, no egr, marlin crawler tranny, OME 2" lift...
just wondering what people thought about break in procedure... I was told to use an additive to dino oil or use diesel oil for break in... adjust valves and head bolts at install and again at 500 miles... change oil and filter at 500 miles... and finally let the engine go through the heat cycle couple times before first driving... example: idle to normal operating temps and then let completely cool... repeat... drive like a granny... don't sit in traffic...
whats a good additive for oil? what else am i looking for?
just wondering what people thought about break in procedure... I was told to use an additive to dino oil or use diesel oil for break in... adjust valves and head bolts at install and again at 500 miles... change oil and filter at 500 miles... and finally let the engine go through the heat cycle couple times before first driving... example: idle to normal operating temps and then let completely cool... repeat... drive like a granny... don't sit in traffic...
whats a good additive for oil? what else am i looking for?
01-20-2011, 10:53 AM
#2
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Ask ORE if they break in their cam's before shipping the motor. Otherwise here is what I was told from Engnbldr:
Use an oil with a higher zinc content. (ZDDP ???) He said which is what I used just a 10W-30 Valvoline Dino. Which has the highest zinc content tham other brands of oil out there that are "over the counter".
Before stating engine, prime the oil system by using the starter to turn the motor till the oil light goes out. (coil wire off), to make it easier on the starter you can remove the spark plugs. This can take up to a minute depending on how well the oil pump was packed with grease/vasoline or not at all.
Run the engine between 2500-3000 RPM for 20-30 minutes varying engine rpm. Shut off engine. Loosen rockers and re-torque/check head bolts then relash valves. Change oil immediately as engine assembly lube/grease can contaminate oil and clogged filter, as well as possible material from bearings etc etc.
Now this I don't remember getting from Engnbldr or not.
Then take it on a drive half to 3/4 throttle up to about 4,000 RPM backing off allowing engine to break the truck down to almost idle rpm, doing this several times. Driving uphill also helps as it puts an extra load on the engine.
Come back home, change oil again.
Drive it normal to hard, not like a granny till at least 5,000 miles.
Change oil again at 500 miles, then again at 1,500 miles then again at 3,000. Every 3,000 miles afterwards. Do not switch over to synthetic till at least 5,000-6,000 miles.
I did mine this way and at 6,500-7,000 miles I had 170 psi compression in all cyl's. No blown headgasket yet. I think I am at around 8,000-9,000 miles now on this engine. I forget.
After the 3,000 mile oil change I did switch over to Valvoline 15W-40 Dino diesel oil.
Use an oil with a higher zinc content. (ZDDP ???) He said which is what I used just a 10W-30 Valvoline Dino. Which has the highest zinc content tham other brands of oil out there that are "over the counter".
Before stating engine, prime the oil system by using the starter to turn the motor till the oil light goes out. (coil wire off), to make it easier on the starter you can remove the spark plugs. This can take up to a minute depending on how well the oil pump was packed with grease/vasoline or not at all.
Run the engine between 2500-3000 RPM for 20-30 minutes varying engine rpm. Shut off engine. Loosen rockers and re-torque/check head bolts then relash valves. Change oil immediately as engine assembly lube/grease can contaminate oil and clogged filter, as well as possible material from bearings etc etc.
Now this I don't remember getting from Engnbldr or not.
Then take it on a drive half to 3/4 throttle up to about 4,000 RPM backing off allowing engine to break the truck down to almost idle rpm, doing this several times. Driving uphill also helps as it puts an extra load on the engine.
Come back home, change oil again.
Drive it normal to hard, not like a granny till at least 5,000 miles.
Change oil again at 500 miles, then again at 1,500 miles then again at 3,000. Every 3,000 miles afterwards. Do not switch over to synthetic till at least 5,000-6,000 miles.
I did mine this way and at 6,500-7,000 miles I had 170 psi compression in all cyl's. No blown headgasket yet. I think I am at around 8,000-9,000 miles now on this engine. I forget.
After the 3,000 mile oil change I did switch over to Valvoline 15W-40 Dino diesel oil.
01-20-2011, 12:27 PM
#3
Registered User
Here is how i did it when I droped in a new motor. See post #12
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-223908/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-223908/
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