shafner30

hello

i just put in a brand new exedy pro-kit and a brand new flywheel

i have a 1990 22re 2wd pickup.

i am getting a little clutch chatter in 1st from a stop and revese

is it going to stop chattering?

it this normal?

what way is the best to break it in and how many miles?

please let me know

thanks

MudHippy

O.k., NO it's not normal(for an OE or organic type clutch disc). NO it won't just stop(or it's not very likely to anyway). Clutch break in period is generally 500 miles of normal driving. Things that can speed up the process are allowing it to slip slightly more than necessary while changing gears and sanding the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate prior to installing the clutch disc. I've done both and have had no troubles with either technique. Though both are unorthodox methods, and you'll find about as many people who say not to do them as will suggest that you should.

If it's one of their cerametallic clutch discs then that's just what they do. You'll just have to get used to it, or get another clutch disc(non-ceramic/organic). Here's what they state with regards to chatter while using their cerametallic clutch discs:

It may not be, so we'll go through some of the other causes for clutch chatter.

Starting with what the FSM suggests to check.

Problem
Clutch grabs/chatters

Possible cause
1.Clutch disc lining oily or worn out
2.Pressure plate faulty
3.Clutch diaphragm spring bent
4.Engine mounts loose

Remedy
1.Inspect clutch disc
2.Replace clutch cover
3.Align clutch diaphragm
4.Repair as necessary


So first on the list, and the most likely cause, the clutch disc. We know it's not worn out, so that leaves oil contamination. Does that sound remotely possible? If not, I can think of something else that the book doesn't mention that would be pretty much the same in effect. Did you take the time to remove, with an abrasive or a solvent, the rust protective coating that covers the faces of the new flywheel and pressure plate? It's a slippery substance and would be just like an oily surface in regards to how the clutch disc would react to it. It should have been printed clearly in the install instructions that doing so is a CRITICAL step to proper clutch installation. Maybe you missed that somehow. Is that possible?

Second is the pressure plate. It's brand new so that rules it out as being a very likely cause. Granted that it didn't have any visible damage, possibly from rough handling during shipping. Like any cracks or large dents in the cover or pressure plate itself. You didn't notice anything like that right?

Third are the diaphragm springs on the pressure plate. Did they look bent or crooked? Were the gaps between them equal in appearence? Is there any possibility that you may have damaged or misaligned them while you were re-installing the transmission? The "align clutch diaphragm" suggestion doesn't apply here. What it's refering to there would be the match marks made on the old pressure plate and flywheel that are being reused. Which they aren't, because they're both new. Were you to reuse the old ones, you would've needed to make those marks. And you would've needed to match them up on re-installation.

Fourth are the engine mounts. It's a bit tricky to tell on those with the engine still sitting on them. There are ways though. If they appear to be twisted, misaligned, or if the rubber looks torn/ripped/seperated from the metal components then they may need replaced. They may even look fine and still be damaged. Like I said, that's a tricky one. Only if all else checks out would it be worth the hassle to inspect them further. Which I can explain if needed.

So there you have it. Hope this helps.

Good luck!

shafner30

its one of there oem kits.. exedy pro-kit.

i only have put 75 miles on the new clutch..

i dont think it has a cerametallic disk..

it runs great but it just has a little chatter from a stop

is that because the clutch has not seated yet?

Duffdog

I had a huge clutch issue when I had a supercharged tacoma. I bought one of those "race" disc clutches... that thing sucked. There is no way to stop it chattering. Even after it was broken in, It would keep chattering and making squealing noises. Then, after about 2000 miles, it burned 3 holes in my flywheel and I had to get a new flywheel and just went to a stock toyota clutch.

the only thing that worked was a specific clutch that I got from ACT which was an "organic street disc" coupled with one of their racing pressure plates. Everything else I tried was crap.

Its likely that your chattering will never stop as long as you have that clutch installed.

MudHippy

No. I've installed 2 new clutches(new flywheel/pressure plate/Exedy organic clutch disc and an OE Aisin organic clutch disc when that one blew up)in my rig since I've owned it. Neither did that. So if it were mine, I'd assume something didn't go right during installation. Mistakes do happen, even with the most experienced of mechanics performing the operation. You'll need to tear it apart again, inspect everything for damage and/or foreign material contamination. If you think it's not possible that you made any errors there, then it is possible that the engine mounts are loose or damaged and are causing the issue. So you could start there first. That's entirely up to you.

Sidenote: Exedy recommends that you have their flywheels machined flat prior to installation. Failure to do so voids the warranty(and may be what's causing the issue too). I've never heard of such a thing being required for a new flywheel. And I found that very odd when I read that earlier this evening. Why they wouldn't provide you with a finished product is beyond me. Maybe they mean if you're reusing the old flywheel. I don't know. But I can tell you this, after the Exedy clutch disc I installed blew up/disintegrated with only 1000 miles of use, I vowed NEVER to use their products again.

See page 196 of their catalog for what I'm talking about there.
http://www.exedyusa.com/catalogs/2010OECatalog.pdf