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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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Brake Pedal is Hard, What Happens Next?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Natchitoches, La
Posts: 74
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I would check the vacuum line going to it first, second, it is somewhat difficult to replace but not too hard, third, the brakes can fail if the MC fails, but if its a vacuum leak on the MC, which it sounds like ,then it will just be harder to push that brake pedal to the floor. The problem can be a leak in the rubber on the MC in the dash, the vacuum line going to it, or even the rubber boot in the front of the MC.
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85 toyota rancho lift 33 in tires on 15X8 steel 270 lift cam and flat tops Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it, or they're showing up their friends. Again! |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 6,487
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I've never had a master cylinder go "hard", so to speak. I've always lost brake pedal when they fail. I'd start looking at calipers or wheel cylinders seizing up.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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Hmmm. Interesting.
I remember my 78 Corolla doing this a few times back in the day, but I just ignored it and I ended up junking the car before having to deal with whatever was causing the problem. I assumed that the underlying problem would be fairly easy to diagnose, but it looks like it's gonna be more complicated than I thought, though hopefully cheaper to fix than replacing the master cylinder. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 6,487
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Well, what does the brake fluid look like? Is it dark? When was the last time you flushed the brakes? Do you ever use your parking brake? I've had mine begin to seize up on me causing difficulty with the pedal.
I don't know your budget, but O'Reilly has reman'd Denso units for around $30. I've had good luck with those. In fact, I have one on my '86 right now.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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I have never flushed the brake fluid since I bought the truck in 1991. Might be a good idea, once I figure out where the drain plug is.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,281
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Quote:
I'd definitely just replace the master cylinder and flush the fluid. Try flushing first since that's the most simple procedure.
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1989 Toyota pickup 22re - K&N filter with custom air intake Last edited by DupermanDave; 11-07-2009 at 12:43 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 75
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When you apply pressure to the pedal, does it try to push back? if it does then I think it's the brake booster.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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I guess you could describe it as "pushing back". I think I'll flush the brake fluid first and see what happens, but somehow I doubt that alone is gonna help much.
I gotta do some research on how to do this properly, since I don't want to take any chances of causing the brakes to fail due to a bubble in the brake lines or something similar. Found this thread: http://yotatech.com/f2/one-man-brake...g-done-149414/ Last edited by peckinpah; 11-07-2009 at 03:39 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,021
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X2 on the booster.
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'85 4Runner totaled and brought back 22RE-C 5spd 4.88's, Rear IFS axle with Detroit Locker and Tru Trac up front Doug Thorley Header and LC Engineering Cam, K+N, Downey 3 inch leaves and Rubicon shackles with Pro Comp shocks 32x11.5-15 BFG AT's Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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I'm still not sure i would describe what the brake pedal is doing as "pushing back". Normally when I press the brake pedal, it travels a couple of inches then I feel increasing resistance.
But when it acts up these days, there is almost no travel at all, and it's it impossible to push the pedal more than an inch or so. It stops the truck OK, but it's not exactly confidence-inspiring. Then it goes back to normal after a few stops. It feel like it's pushing back, but I think that's because the pedal is so hard to press at all. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,021
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Sounds like the same pedal you would have with the engine off. No power brakes.
With the engine off, push and hold the brake pedal down. Now start the truck. the pedal should sink some as the power brake booster starts to assist your effort on the pedal. It probably doesn't. Probably a leaky diaphram inside the booster. The check valve is a way easier fix. Pull it out of the booster with the engine running and make sure you've got lots of vacuum there. You can also spray some carb cleaner around the hose-check valve-booster area to check for vacuum leaks.
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'85 4Runner totaled and brought back 22RE-C 5spd 4.88's, Rear IFS axle with Detroit Locker and Tru Trac up front Doug Thorley Header and LC Engineering Cam, K+N, Downey 3 inch leaves and Rubicon shackles with Pro Comp shocks 32x11.5-15 BFG AT's Quote:
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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OK, so i bought a one man brake bleeding kit and bled all four brakes. I pumped out about 18 ounces of extremely brown brake fluid and replaced it with fresh dot 3 Prestone fluid. Took me about an hour and several wet spots on the driveway.
Braking feels much more confidence-inspiring now, and brake pedal feels normal all the time (so far anyway). So evidently, my brake fluid needed changing after 200k miles. Go figure. I still have enough fluid left to change out the fluid in the clutch too. I assume that's pretty easy? |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,624
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done exactly the same way. same nipple also.
Honestly if you're brakes are doing something 'funny' you never just 'ignore' it. If you hit someone because you 'ignored' failing brakes you'd be in a heep of trouble and guilt. On the other hand, good job at working brakes (for now)
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
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Yeah well, I can laugh about it now.
And you have to figure that there's always a certain amount of risk in making things worse by trying to fix them. So I was sort of factoring that in, as well as assuming that I could probably sue Toyota if anything too bloody happened out on the road.
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#16 (permalink) | ||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,624
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Quote:
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#17 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 6,487
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Quote:
)Anyway, peckinpah....... Using the same method as flushing the brakes, find the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side of the tranny bellhousing. You'll see a nipple (there's that word again..... ) like the brake cylinders and calipers have on it. Have someone pump the clutch, crack the bleeder, allow the fluid and any air to expel, and keep repeating until the fluid comes clear and air free. Unless you have no one to help you, you really don't need the kit for this. It goes rather quickly. Hell.....since I've never had a bleeder kit, I don't know if it will even work for the clutch. Still.....happy nippling.
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| Tags |
| 89, booster, brake, car, diaphram, difficult, hard, pedal, pickup, power, press, problem, sinks, toyota, works |
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