wrenchtech

Toyota trucks from this era use a 10mm fitting with a line with an inverted flare. What size line do I need if I'm buying bulk, unfinished line? And will most flaring tools make this kind of flare?

FGZ

I'm interested in hearing more about this too. From what I understand, all brake line flaring tools are not created equal and you get what you pay for. So then you start compensating for a sub-par tool by using softer brake line material and end up with a sub-par finished product that won't last as long. I'm interested in hearing more specifics, though.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I used a Matco for years till a helper managed to break the flaring Block one of the bolts

I then went with a imperial double flaring tool .Till I picked up another Matco one I use what ever one is closest ..

A good tubing cutter is also a must.

Since I get into all kinds of projects I really like the copper nickle brake line I buy from Federal Hill.

It is nice to work with.

The only down side it only comes in 25' coils I would love 100' coils

3/16" for most of the brake lines on our Toyota`s

I am waiting to see how this holds up to the winter chemicals

rattlewagon

I use a cheap-o flaring tool, and just single flare everything. Hasn't let me down yet. Knock it all you want, but there are 12 ends on my truck right now that are single flare, and none of them leak.

May not be the best option, but if your on a budget, you do what works.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

In Vermont different physical laws apply in physics anything to get the job done.Sort of a pocket in reality no doubt something to do with Champ.

Compression fittings on brake lines Wire Nuts fairly common on automotive work.

scope103

LOL! Where in Japan would Toyota get 3/16" anything? Import it from the US? That wouldn't help; I don't think there has been an "SAE" part anywhere in any automobile (US or import) since the '70s.

Brake line is 5mm. Since that's only slightly more than 3/16", some die-hards just call 5mm brake line 3/16". The fittings are 10mm, with 10mm wrench flats. (As usual, be sure to use a flare-nut wrench; the fittings are brass and can be easily distorted.)

I've only used a double-flare tool once, and found it hard to use. Mostly my technique, I'm sure. But I'd be glad to hear if someone has found an especially easier way to make double-flares.

Hadmatt54

I bought a "gray" brand double flaring tool over 40 years ago and it's still going strong. I picked up another partial gray set a few years ago for spare parts. Double flares are easy to make if you remember these things:-
Use a quality tube cutter, ream the inside of the tube after the cut and file the end smooth.
Chamfer the end of the tube at roughly a 45 degree angle and use the insert to measure how much tube you have sticking out of the block. Too much or too little will screw up the flare,
Lubricate the insert with a drop or two of brake fluid before you start to flare.
Also if you don't need to flare a line on the vehicle, mount the block in a vise, it makes the job much easier.
For us old farts, brake tubing was 3/16" when we started working on cars and if you measure brake tubing there is very little difference between 3/16" and 5mm only .009", that's why. though it is a bit slack, 3/16" works just fine with 10mm. flare nuts., The roll that I bought last week was labeled as 3/16" and 5mm.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

One might be able to go to a auto parts vendor in a big city and ask for 5mm brake tubing .

Around here it would be met with blank 1000 yard stares then the counter person would most likely say nope don`t have it .Never heard of that size.

I should have stated I have been using the 3/16" tubing which is 4.75mm measured with my Caliper since I have been making brake lines for Toyota`s

Besides it is the flare that seals the tube not the size of the tube

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

x2 on the Nickel Copper line. I just bought a 100' roll from my local Advance Auto which was on sale for 100 bucks. But I got it for $84 because a local shop I know ordered it for me and I got it at their price.

About the fittings, what he told me he does is save all the fittings and reuse them. If they are tight, he takes a drill bit to the fitting to loosen it up. Makes sense. Haven't used the stuff yet, but as Wyoming could add, it's easy to work with, flares easy and bend it by hand.

I just have an old flaring tool that was my Dad's...brand unknown.