JohnRaven

Alright, so after blowing 2 rear rusted likes, I replaced the lines and spliced the new lines in connecting to the LSPV. I could not connect the lines directly to the LSPV for fear of breaking the fittings off. I also cannot bleed from the rear of the LSPV for fear of breaking the fitting because it is rusted so bad.

Anyways,

After getting my brakes working again, they worked OKAY for about a month even though I could not get all the air out of the lines from the rear.

The last few days my brakes have been feeling really mushy with little stopping power. So, I bled the brakes again. First the fronts, then the rears...

I was able to see a fair amount of air coming out of the front lines. Not sure on the rears though since I can't hook up any tubing to it...

So, here is my conclusion.

I obviously have an air leak somewhere, either the brake booster, master cylinder, or the LSPV.

How do I test each of these to confirm where the air is being sucked in?

Lummpus

If there was a leak you would see it. If it was sucking in air it would be pushing fluid out. If you bleed the brakes in the correct order you should be able to get all the air out. Start with the Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. when bleeding brakes you always start with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and end with the one that's the closest.

corax

x2 what Lummpus said

+

If the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor with your foot on it (medium to hard pressure) you have a bad master cylinder.

abecedarian

How did you splice the lines together?

PCE91V64x4

use lots of PB blaster on those fittings and a socket wrench. For the bad brake tubes cut them and put the socket over them (easier than using line wrenches).

Otherwise replace the LSPV. That thing needs to be bled.

oh, and how do you splice lines? never heard of that.

GSGALLANT

You splice lines by cutting them and flaring new fittings on them, but if the lines were rusted that bad, I wouldn't have gone that route. It's tough to get a good seal when you try to flare rusted lines.

corax

Duct tape and JBWeld . . . here's an example of a splice (on the rear brake line from the Wilwood piece)

yoterr

i thought my master was bad, for after trying to bleed my brakes about 3 times still had a mushy pedal, but i just bled the bajesus out of them (let alot of fluid out ) i found the friggin air bubble and they work fine now

Kiroshu

ok #1 your supose to bleed wheels starting from the one furthest from the master cyl. right rear, left rear, front right, front left..... #2 if its rusted that bad i would look into getting a new or another LSPV off a junk truck or by one. they are about 300 bucks from dealer.... when you go to splicing and things like that you throw pressure off and it mostly will not bleed right. alot of mechanics will prob turn your truck away now that you have a rigup like that. FIX IT RIGHT!!! If moneys an issue then you shuld have left it alone and kept putting brake fuild in it untill you saved enough for proper repairs. No offense but i'm tellin ya you really need to do it the right way when it comes to this stuff.