TheDean

Hey all, I'm trying to put my 89 Yota Xtra cab V6 pickup on the road, but am having a hell of a time bleeding the brakes to put it on the road. Story starts off: I had to replace both brake lines going to the rear, due to the fact the last ones broke and all the fluid drained out and it sat for a year or so, i presume. All the lines I bought are factory Toyota parts. When I go to bleed the brakes, the ass end bleeds fine, and has good pressure, but the front ones, I barely get a drizzle outta em. No leaks in wheel cyls, almost certain no leaks in lines, and master cyl was just torn outta my DD 87 4runner (it got vandalized, which is why I'm able to swap over the parts) and the rear load sensing proportioning valve was also swapped in, and also the "T" junction, on the second port on the master cyl, that branches the flow right or left for the front end. No hoses are ballooning, and I replaced the bleeder screws with new ones just in case. Any help? I need the truck to get to work, and it's snow in the forcast in the next few days,

Jake Engel

TheDean

If any of you are in Calgary, I'll buy you a beer!!

Outsane

I had near the same issue with mine.

Except it was the rears that only had dribble, trouble started after replacing the rear cylinders and leaving the lines open.

I must have pumped for days multiple times didn't fix it, I ended up fixing it with a new Master Cylinder.

Hope that helps.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Take the master cylinder off (or leave it on) and bench bleed it properly. Sounds like the master doesn't have fluid in the front part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOuDEiwiozQ
Here's a video on how to do it. Sorry if it's like the mr. rogers mechanic but you get the point. These master cylinders can be hard to get all the air out if not bench bled properly. And if after you bench bleed it and it still doesn't work The seals might be bad. Try that and get back to us.

TheDean

I'll try to bench bleed it! It confused me, as the master cyl worked perfect on the 4runner, but as soon as i swapped it over to the taco, I still had the same problem. If worst comes to worse, and it's the calipers, could I swap the calipers over from the 4runner? I'm gonna tear every prop valve that I can find outta the 4runna, and swap into the taco to see if its just that issue, but I'll bench bleed first. Gonna grab a beer and a pizza, headin out to the garage as I type, I'll get back to you guys in less than 2 shakes of a hyenia's exoskeleton! Btw, the mr.rogers comment literally made me laugh out loud!

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

when you swapped it and didn't bench bleed it the fluid ran out of the front of the master cylinder giving you the effect your seeing now. I went through this before and swore up and down the master was bad. It wasn't until i bench bled the darn thing properly that it worked. Good luck man i know it's frustrating.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

X3 "bench bleed" it. You don't actually have to remove it, but you need to bleed the air out of the actual master before reattaching the lines.

TheDean

I bench bled it, still am getting excellent pressure at rear, still drizzle at front. I undid the lines right before the rubber flex hose on front, and got the same, if not better, pressure than I did at the rear, telling me that there is a restriction between the beginning of the flex hose, and the ass end of the caliper (most likely a caliper, they look like they've seen better days), I just came inside the garage to post this, but am going back out to keep on working. Will the calipers from my 87 4x4 4runner work on my pickup? (89, 4x4).

oldbluetoy

I had that once a long while back and if I remember right the caliper itself had frozen. Didn't have the funds to buy a new one so I removed it, took the pads out, and "unfroze" both pistons seperately with a pair of channel locks, reinstalled it, and luckily it worked again (and didn't leak).

Swansen

If you search around you'll find that, for some unknown reason, these breaks on these toyotas are a friggin nightmare.. Air and other odd things just like to hide throughout the system. I had a line break running to the rear, so i just replaced both and it took me a week to figure out what was going on.. and the figuring out was just going through a ton of brake fluid..

That said, how are you bleeding your brakes by yourself? do you have a vacuum pump or some "speed bleeders" ?? or something?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

x2 on the vaccum pump it can make bleeding easier.

Swansen

yep, and i know the OP is in Canada, aanndd if i was near Calgary i'd definitely swing out and give you a hand. Anywho, harbor freight sells a cheap vacuum pump that does whats its suppose to quite well, russell speed bleeders are the cats pajamas, i've used them since i discovered them.

TheDean

Swansen, I don't getta see my Dad anymore (parents split when I was young), so I invite Dad over for a beer and to help me bleed So, get this, I get the calipers, remanned, the ONLY god damn ones in the city left, after hours on my iphone searching, and the caliper manufacturer included the wrong pad guide pins (or retaining pins, whatever they're called)!!! They're a 3rd of an inch short! Like F me running, I'm having the WORST luck with this truck! These brakes ARE a friggin nightmare, they're set up like like old school 6 ton trucks were with the lspv. I'm gonna go back to the part store and tryo to get the pins sorted out, but meanwhile, any suggestions for the line going from the flex hose to the back of the caliper? Both were f'd sideways, and the 12" bubble flare lines you buy at your local parts stores are like 1/2" too short and everywhere else i look, the next size up is 20 inches. Maybe just use that one and coil it up on one end to take up slack?

Jake

Swansen

if its a hard line, then coil away, otherwise, you considering ordering your parts?? You can find Yota stuff aall over the internet, Rockauto.com is pretty good, they have a lot of stuff, some stuff lays around ebay. Anywho, hope yet get it figured out man, i know how much of a pain these brakes are to deal with.

Bojangles

Last night i decided to help my girlfriends step dad work on her truck.
She has a 2000 Z71 and he was having the same exact problem.
Just a little dribble of fluid, not near what it should of been, no pressure, and the pistons were not extending toward the rotor.
The pistons were froze up.
We went and bought new callipers for both sides and everything worked perfect.
I think you're having the same issue.

TheDean

I'm almost certain it was the calipers, and I just said screw it and ordered the lines for 20 bucks! Razed, I definately bled the lspv and am definately bleeding per norm. I'll let you guys know how it goes tonight! Anyone need or know anyone in need of a 22re or other 87 4runna parts?

Bojangles

Yeah bubba, im willing to bet money on those calipers.

But no sir, especially not from canada haha.
Im actually parting out a 87 toyota pickup myself.

TheDean

Ouch! You guys always ˟˟˟˟can us but our vehicles aren't anymore rustier than yours (unless it's from bc or way up north) lol the runna is in actually very very good condition, good luck parting yours out man! I'm about o head to the garage so I'll keep you guys posted!

Bojangles

Haha i didn't mean it like that!
I was saying the shipping would be outrageous haha
But yeah, let me know what you figure out...
Im interested to see if it was the calipers.

TheDean

I think the lspv has air in it, but if course, the bleeder bolt snapped clean off when I tried to bleed the sob. New calipers and pads worked, bled good, but there's definately air somewhere, and not being able to bleed the lspv because of the snapped bolt makes me think its the lspv, but I don't wanna dump anymore money into this slippery sea serpent weasel corn wagon, so could I somehow buy a bubble flare all female T and just splice the main fluid line(not return line) to the rear and return? Or is that tooo Afro engineered thinking? I just know people are gonna want $400000000000 for it