MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Some might have seen me on pirate 4x4. Was formerly a 1977 k5 owner, built 350, 3/4 ton axles, disk breaks, 36"tsls. Needed something smaller, little bit better at being driven to off roading sites (read alaska)

Found an 88 v6 with manual, 3 inch lift, mostly complete, very solid drivetrain and the frame is as black and rust free as the day it left the factory. Oh and 33" mud terrains

Anyway, been reading all day since it takes the forums forever to activate.

Decided on adding the ball joint lift, need to find some decent torsion bars.

Getting budbuilt's tcase lifter, two inches, wondering if I should lift the motor mounts, if so how much, would like to keep cg as low as possible. Also raising gas tank some. I am also taking off cat and EGR, not needed in OK and both are malfunctioning anyway. trying to find a cheap header and y pipe, but that's a different story.

Was wondering what ya'll did with the breather box. Also need to know how much and what kind of each fluid is needed, oil, transmission, transfercase, and gears. I prefer amsoil. Also I read the 4cralr tech, helped but seemed to be for the 4cyl, not 6.

Also is there a good rear disc conversion for these?

Anyone have an rear cargo covers?

Anyone ordered those fenders from canada? I'm considering it.

OH also how to/where breather lines need to be run and what type of grease you use for all the joints.

I also wheeled it sort of hard yesterday, sounds like cv is clicking, when suspension hits something (have manual warn hubs). How much are most new shafts, I'd like to get spares, also for rear axle. Also how does the bump stop for the ball spacer work? It has at least aftermarket shocks and steering stabilizer, I'm sure I'll have to go with larger for the torsion bars and joint lift.

What torsion bars has everyone had good luck with?
Any good electric or air locker for these found at junkyards?

TORTIS

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i have no answers for you, but welcome to Y\T

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

It should also be known I only got one key with it. And just lost it. Damn.

TORTIS

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that was the first thing i did was have three keys made. 1 for may wallet, 1 for the truck, 1 hidden on the truck for when i locked both in the truck.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately I locked the door so can't get the passenger cylinder out, nor can I work on anything else.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

if it has a vent window just get a coat hanger bend the end so it is shaped like this L use the end to depress the button and use a really small screw driver to lift up on the handle.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Trucks are easy to jimmy with coathanger and patients. Locked myself out in the middle of a cross country trip.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Decided on adding the ball joint lift, need to find some decent torsion bars.

Getting budbuilt's tcase lifter, two inches, wondering if I should lift the motor mounts, if so how much, would like to keep cg as low as possible. Also raising gas tank some.

I am also taking off cat and EGR, not needed in OK and both are malfunctioning anyway. trying to find a cheap header and y pipe, but that's a different story.

Was wondering what ya'll did with the breather box.

Also need to know how much and what kind of each fluid is needed, oil, transmission, transfercase, and gears. I prefer amsoil.



I used Downey torsion bars, but they're made for cranking up lift- I'm planning on ball joint spacers so will know more later in the near future.

If you raise the drive train yes you most likely going to have to raise engine and body lift. or cut up floor pan to raise drive train.

It EGR and cat thing may be another problem that is triggering the things to trip codes. FSM's for free. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

I'm running the downey tri-y but I'm a 22re. I like it, don't try the pacesetter. I did first had lots of fitting problems their customer service was good though.

Check the FSM's for quantities

And Welcome.

burnscore1

Sounds like you need a chiltons book, or equivelent. I got one and it tells you all the fluid capacities and all the vacuum etc routes.

Good Luck!!

toomster

if you have any buddy's with simmular year toyota anything, it would be worth a try. I know I have tried the keys to 5 different trucks in mine and all open the door and start the truck. Kinda spooky.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

I keep debating on doing an SAS or not. This will be used all over, from sand bogging (sounds odd, but rivers in ok suck, by norman anyway) to moab to cali to alaska this summer. Streetability and controlability in dunes seems like it wins IFS easy, as well as the fact it has a little more center ground clearance. It also seems to be less reliable though.

I found an 85 solid front axle off a toyota truck with aisin hubs, complete from hub to hub for 375, going to try and get him to go lower. I would like a locker in front in rear, selectable. Does an SAS sound right for me?

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

For an idea of the summer trip I hope to be taking,

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=e...65625&z=4&om=0

misterzee

carefully pull the interior door panel off the passenger side. use a body panel fork if you can. then, remove the clip that holds the lock cylinder, remove the rod from the cylinder, remove the cylinder. Take it to a Yota dealer. That cylinder has a number stamped in it that will allow them to cut you a nice new set of factory keys. :-)

CyMoN

Djlarroc

MrArmyAnt, I remember reading your post on Pirate. I'm glad you got that truck! It was a helluva deal and welcome to Y/T.

Do some reseach here, many people end up going w/the SAS, while others do plenty and some extremely hard trails with IFS. I, myself am content w/IFS. 1 thing, I'd recommend is doing a kill switch on your truck. These 1st gen runner/trucks & 2nd gen trucks are HELLA easy to steal. Most keys are interchangeable between trucks. If you lost your key, ask another Yota owner for theirs, it will most likely work!

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I have photos the owner put up, ironicly look worse than it does in real life (what looks like rust on the frame is actually dirt. I hosed it off and the frame is in similar condition to that of my 2 month old tundra crewmax 5.7l limited ) Sorry, had to work the other toyota in there. Recently went from a 99 silverado/77 blazer combo to the tundra/4runner combo

I'll do that switch as soon as I can get in there. Don't know anyone down here who has one

I think I'm liking IFS again. First order of business is moving rear tube bumper to front, getting one of those nice rear tube bumpers I found from some site for 250, and a drive train lift.

Oh links to photos:
http://www.oklahomaquickies.com/4runner/

Now remember he hadn't cleaned it in a year or so.