Zekang

hey.. so i managed to snap a bolt in my knuckle arm (i think thats what its called) .. i got it out with a pair of vice grips .. anywho the problem i ran into is noone had the right size bolt.. so i bought one that was a 14m 1.5x60mm instead of a 55mm.. i put a few washers on it and everything is good (as far as i know) my question is do you guys know what strength the bolt is suppose to be? the one i got is an 8 i think? (if it doesnt show im really new to this stuff)


btw.. since ive joined this forum ive changed my pitman arm, idle arm, starter, front and back brakes (+ drums on the back) ball joints and tie rods.. not bad considering id barely changed a tire prior to joining eh? <3

also from what ive been able to find the bolts that hold the calipers in should be at 90lbf of torque.. but i dont see where it says how much the torque for the steering arm knuckle is.. any ideas?

sorry if this is hard to read i just got off work (11 hr drive.. <<trucker) and my brain is beyond scattered

dmwahl

Call a dealer, they can get it for you. While it will make you feel like a sucker to pay $8 for a single bolt, it's best to use the correct hardware and know that it's correct.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

There is no such thing as a grade 8 metric bolt. A grade 10.9 metric bolt of the correct dimensions would be safe. You could also go to a junkyard, pay a buck to get in and just grab the bolt. Most yards don't charge for hardware so I usually leave with a bag of every nut and bolt I take off.

dmwahl

That's "Class 10.9", not "Grade 10.9". ASTM F568M Class 10.9 has a proof strength of 830MPa, which is marginally higher than the SAE Grade 8 spec of 120kpsi. There is such a thing as a Grade 8 bolt, the SAE grades just specify the type of steel used, and said steel knows not what type of thread it's made into.

Another thing to keep in mind is not all bolts that claim to be a certain grade actually meet the standards. Counterfeit hardware is a bigger problem than you might think. Another reason to buy from Toyota. You'd probably be fine getting a junkyard bolt, but if you want to be sure then go with a Toyota part. Ask yourself if you're willing to snap the bolt again while you're driving, and if that's worth saving $7.

osv

assuming that it was a factory Toyota bolt...

the fact that you managed to break a big bolt like that shows how weak it was... if it was factory, i'd get something better.

reputable bolt manufacturers will list the source of the steel used in their products, whether it came from recycled material or not, whether it's made in the usa or overseas, etc... just visit their websites.

buy those brand names from places like McMaster Carr, or figure out who made the bolt that you got from ace hardware, they usually have boxes of bolts that have the manufacturer's name on 'em.

I usually go junkyard, or 10.9

oh yeah, always use a torque wrench on those bolts, and check 'em regularly, if they loosen up it could cause major problems.

Zekang

thanks for the help!.. i went to the junk yard and got one.. great advice =)