gatorblue92

does anyone know if shifter extensions are available for a 94 Pickup with a 3" body lift? i have looked all over PA's website and cant seem to find any... my truck had a BL installed by the PO and he didnt install the shifter extensions which makes it very difficult (read impossible) to shift into 4wd without first removing the trim ring and boot

the truck is a manual with the 22RE motor

rdlsz24

Check this out:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...wShifter.shtml

Rob

Jay351

The PA shifter extensions are just 3" long peices of cold rolled steel. You cut your shifters right before they bend and weld in the extension. This is what allows the shifter to clear. The 4crawler extensions just screw onto the top, they don't clearance the bend in the shifter like the weld in extensions do.

I welded in mine and also had to bend my shifter over a little (to the left and up) to clear everything. I also inverted the first shift boot, this gave me the last bit of clearance I needed to get into all gears easily.

You could also buy a t-case short throw shifter kit. I plan on getting one for my tranny and t-case eventually...

gatorblue92

thanks guys I'll check those options out

swapped89

Your kit should have came with the extensions. I bought a cheap 2" BL from a parts store and it came with 2, two inch long pieces of colled rolled steel. make sure you draw a line straight up and down where you make the cut so you dont get the shifters twisted up when welding them together. after you cut through the vertical line tack one piece of shifter to the extension then match the other line from the other half of the shifter. that way you wont have to bend anything.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Aside from the short throw kit linked abovew, here is a screw-on shifter extension:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...lTransmissions

And some tips on clearancing around the shifters to improve shifter operation:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#ManualTranny

ironroad9c1

body lifts put more stress on the body mount bolts that are not made for the kind of shear forces placed on them in that kind of usage,they are made for clamping loads , not side loads and its just being lazy,cheap, and anything you do the raise the body is gonna raise the center of gravity.

ironroad9c1

Even if you only install a roof rack ...YOU ADD weight to the top of the truck, and raise the center of gravity, even if its a tiny bit, if you ad a spare tire to the rear tail gate , you move the center of gravity back.
yes weight has some determination on how much the CoG moves , but either way it still moves.


"A body lift is relatively simple in that it primarily consists of a set of spacers that are inserted at the mounting points between the frame and body of the vehicle. This leaves all the heavy parts of the vehicle (frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, etc) at their factory locations so the vehicle's center of gravity (though increased) will not be increased as much as a suspension lift.

Pros: Cheap, can be installed quickly with basic hand tools, allows fitment of larger tires, simple (all components come in a small box).

Cons: Appearance (there will be a noticeable gap between the body tub and the frame), extra leverage is placed on the mounting points, no increase in ground clearance."

http://ezinearticles.com/?Jeep-Wrang...ift&id=1108243

Jay351

They add a tad more stress to the boy mounts, but NOTHING enough to cause any problems. If you have rusty mounts then you could have a problem. Adding a body lift is NOT being lazy and cheap. Ask any real wheeler and they will agree, body lifts are great. I don't know who said you didnt raise your COG with a body lift, but like you mentioned you do. But compaired to a suspension lift (lifting the suspension, frame, drivetrain and body) you have only raised a small amount of weight. This yeiled a very small COG increase, nothing that could effect the truck in any way..

So yeah, body lifts are a great way to lift the truck (3" max) without raising the cog much, keeping your IFS strong and reliable and keeping road manners.
What would you suggest, a bracket lift? please.....

Jay351

Pro: More clearance to work on stuff, room for sliders, better engine cooling, more room for bigger tires = diff clearance. The best kind of clearance! toyotas have great underbody clearance (aside from that damn stock tranny x/member)

con: not really any in my mind...the gaps? No, perhaps on a heep like you quoted, but toyotas sit low onthe frame. The only place there is a gap is under the bed. This can be fixed with cheap rubber mat.

Well, there is one con to a body lift, you can sometimes have shifter issues. But I don't anymore..

The frame on the side of the truck (still sticks out less then a stock fullsize) is easily covered up by a nice coat of black paint. My sliders block all view of the frame from eye level...

Mic09dcsm

I think some sedatives would be in order. The point is body lifts no matter the pros and cons are extremely efficient. That is the point.

ironroad9c1

And only have 1 use. and do nothing for offroad performance, unless you cram a 6 inch larger tire underneath then you might gain the 3 extra inches of ground clearance but buy going from 31's w/o a lift, to maybe 33's with a 3 inch body lift you are not gonna gain more than 1/2-1 inch more ground clearance,with a 3 inch body lift so whats the point.

Trustyrusty

I dunno about you, but it seems you just REALLY suck at anything that takes thinking or common sense, but I went from a 28" tire to a 33" tire.. So that means..

33-28=5

Wow so now we take

5/2=2.5

2.5" Clearance from tires, on top of the 3" of room I made..

89whitetoyota

Different strokes for different folks, no reason to cram a salty pretzel in everyones ass because they have different likes than you. If your going to make a comment about disliking someones idea, do it in a "grown-up" fashion, we're all adults around here.

Trustyrusty

Amen.

Trustyrusty

On another note, 89 you got the same lights as me on your bumper!

ironroad9c1

You are a little short, cause most 33inch tires are in the 32 inch range. but you still haven't gained that much travel over stock. cause you also added your figured 2.5 inches on TOP of the tire to the fenderwell. so you gained a whopping .5 inches of travel over stock.

Jay351

Offroad performance? Last time I checked, diff clearance is what you want, mog axles anyone?

The first reason for getting a body lift is for tire clearance, all other pros are just a bonus (read: work clearance, approach and departure angles etc.) With tire clearance you can run a bigger tire, which gives you said diff clearance. And hey, thats all the IFs bracket lifts do while they :

-Weaken your IFS by installing 4" DROP brackets on tabs that where never designed for such a load (two can play at that game )
-Increases your COG by a MUCH greater amount than a body lift
- They don't increase your tavel at all

but they do net you some underbelly clearance...

oh yeah, with a body lift you can do a drivetrain lift, thus the ability to have a flat belly... Im sure alot of rockcrawlers have done this....

Trustyrusty

Since this thread is a full on derail thanks to somebody..

6,500 POSTS FTW! Had to point that out, odd its even..

aviator

Ladies and Gentlemen can we all control ourselves here... I cleaned up this thread because there is a good amount of useful information here.

I think we can all agree that Body Lifts are one low buck way to increase clearance to allow the fitment of larger wheels at the expense of stock shifter and possibly wiring/control clearance problems, a raised CoG, and the other cons noted. They do have a place and purpose in the world, though personally they are not to my taste, it is ultimately up to the owner (and DOT lol) what gets installed on a truck or not.