QuickPaws

I'm just looking for opinions on what to do with my truck since it's blown a head gasket. Should I just do the head work and replace the gaskets? ( I'm semi confident in my ability to do this )

Do that 3.4 swap ( this scares me, there's alot of work there, and much of it is likely beyond what I know. That said, I might be able to do it with all the pictures and write ups here.. and by asking alot of questions )

Find a new/remanned 3.0 and put it in ( from the same model year, so there is no OBDII rewiring to be done ( wiring is what worries me the most )

I'll hopefully have about a grand in a month that I can use to fix it. I'd just really like some opinions and thoughts from the experienced people ( and others like me ) That have gone through this already.

I just want my truck back.


Thanks,

Mike

BoostinChick

3.4L Swap

There is an entire forum dedicated to the 3.4L swap and many write ups from members as well (with pictures).

JigsN Rigs

Easiest and cheapest will be just do the headgaskets. Good for a rookie mechanic seeing you probably are not ready for the 3.4 swap. I would say do the headgasket and wait to put off the 3.4 until you get a little more knowledge under your belt

QuickPaws

Truth be told, this is what I was hoping to hear. I know it's definitely ambitious, and I've read the stories here and that didn't help my confidence none.

What's most commonly included in head work for a scenario like this? ( cheapest and easiest ) I know a little from alot of searching, but nothing really concrete as to what should be done typically.

Thanks again.

QuickPaws

That section ( and all the pics and time from other members who've done it ) are what make me feel some confidence in being able to do it. I also know that the swap would mean I'd get a much better/reliable engine in there. But like I mentioned below... dang that's ambitious for someone like me.

QuickPaws

I was just thinking... would it be possible/a good idea to eliminate the crossover pipe( Something like the way it has to be done for the 3.4 swap ), and do a custom exhaust down under the truck to help eliminate future headgasket issues? I've read in my research searches ( redundancy department huh?) that one of the reasons for failure is that that part get's hotter than the rest of the engine due to the exhaust pipes there.

Thoughts / Opinions?

BoostinChick

Due to the omega threads about 3.0 blowing head gaskets and too tight of valves causing burnt valves I am saving up for a 3.4L swap to be done with it. People have rebuilt the top end with good results but price vs. price (3.0 re-decked/re-surfaced, over sized valves, cams, then timing belt, water pump, etc.) it's pretty close if not cheaper -- depending on where you get your motor -- to do the 3.4L swap.

You can only do so much prevention before the cost adds up to another solution. This is my opinion not really a suggestion...

Plus a super charger on my 4Runner would sound sweeet!

I tend to disagree...you removing the heads puts you halfway there to removing the motor anyway. In my opinion/experience removing the heads is more difficult and more mundane then ripping the motor out entirely. The only hard part (for most) is the mating of the two harnesses. Everything else bolts right up or you interchange parts from the 3.0 to make it work. There is so much useful information and help on this forum I am sure you would be able to get the help you need. Good luck with your decision and keep us updated!

bluAM2

i'm in the middle of this right now actually. i've got a 93 3.0L V6 (3vz-e) and i'm a rookie as well. i used to race dirt modifieds a while ago so i'm not completely without mechanical knowledge, but this is the first engine aside from a race ready chevy 454 that i've ever really touched so i was a bit nervous.

it started with a quote from a mechanic saying $2000 to fix the head gaskets with labor and he wasn't guaranteeing they would hold. so i decided to do it myself. i'll let you in on everything i'm doing, but remember, i'm not done yet so i can't say how much everything's helped. and i don't have the exact prices on hand so i'll do my best .

i went with the MLS head gaskets (bomb proof compared to the standard felpro's, but you need the block/heads to mate up much better)
- $350 for premium MLS head gaskets with studs (REPLACE THE STUDS)
-$400 for the heads to get resurfaced, valves reseated/resealed
-$??? for the block resurfaced (wasn't going to resurface the block, but i found my #6 piston busted so now i'm digging into the block too)

i also got rid of the exhaust manifolds and am going with the LC Engineering headers because this is one of the big things i found that would help prevent another blown HG by keeping the temp around the heads down. again, i went premium on it.
-$800 for headers, crossover pipe and beefier studs.

k&n cold air intake for kicks, keep the intake temp down, keep the engine cooler? maybe ...
-$250

replace your knock sensor wire while you're in there too. it's a simple fix with the intake off, but it'll make everything run crappy if it's bad. replace it while you're in there
-about $10

obviously you're going to want to replace all your gaskets that you take apart. there are lots of gasket kits out there for sale. i don't forsee the need for anything too premium there and i just went with the basic felpro head gasket kit from autozone.

change plugs and wires too, just stick with the oem's.

you'll probably want to change the oil a couple times in that first week after it's all back together to flush all that crap out of there if you're not taking apart the block itself to clean it out.

COOLANT! go with the toyota red. it's kind of hard to find and i'll probably end up going to the dealer to get mine, but from what i hear it's the safest and most reliable choice. use distilled water too and don't mix anything else in with it (aka other antifreeze's, additives, etc.) the wrong coolant can screw up everything you've worked for.

you might want to take a look at your water pump and thermostat while you're in there too.

that's all i can think of right now. good luck, and if you get stuck, ASK QUESTIONS! there are plenty of experts on here who know a lot more than i do. i'm just going through the same thing right now. i've probably put about 12-15 hours into it total, and i just ripped the block out because more is wrong with it i've noticed. just beware of the "while i'm in here ..." effect because THAT gets expensive quick . good luck!

BoostinChick

^ ^ If you're spending all that money why not go with the over sized valves and cams? Burnt exhaust valves are pretty common around the 3.0. Did you go with the enginebldr rebuild kit? His prices seem pretty fair.

buckz6319

In my opinion, given the situation with the economy, it may be a wise move to just repair the 3vze BUT if money is no object and you have plenty of time, then do the 3.4 swap.You would enjoy that engine a lot better so I here

QuickPaws

Your timing belt write up is what I used the most when trying to figure out what was wrong with my truck to begin with. I'd love to do the 3.4, and from other searches, I have found another writeup where the guy disassembled the harness' and repinned them to new connectors (that stuff is second nature to me, I build computers and crap ) In the end of it all, he only spliced 6 wires in the whole harness.

QuickPaws

Wow. Yeah, prem is right. You went pretty much to my budget with just the headers. As much as I'd like to do the 3.4 I'll prolly have to just suck it up and do the head work. Even looking at just what you are doing is over my budget. I will have problems removing the block ( no engine stand/hoist ) so any work on that level is already questionable.

If I were to just fix the heads, my plan was:

Headwork
Headers ( cheapo if possible, just to eliminate the crossover, just like you, to help prevent future problems )
And as much as I hate to say it, FelPro gaskets ( the full kit, comes with everything from the heads up ) ( it's the cheapest way to go about it, and I don't like this idea.. something done cheap is rarely done right )

I'll prolly replace the timing belt and water pump while I'm in there ( heck, it's all ripped apart right now anyway )

I've been looking at comparison shots between stock 3.0's and swapped 3.4's and dang the engine bay is alot cleaner. Is it just me, or are there ALOT less vacuum lines to worry about? ( after the swap )

QuickPaws

Hehe. You all make it sound -so easy-. The harness is what has been scaring me the most I think. I read the article that was posted in the swap forum about Andrew Zooks and his like 7 step engine swap, and sheesh, THAT made it look easy. He's the guy who only had to splice 6 wires in the harness because he repinned everything ( which I have ALOT of confidence in my ability to do, provided I have wiring diagrams showing what pin needs to be where )

Also, +1 to a supercharger

QuickPaws

Oops... my bad.

@ The REPLACE THE STUDS comment in your walkthrough there...

Are you talking about the headbolts? I haven't seen anything in any threads about replacing head studs? ( pardon my dumbness, headbolts have been factored into my budget, studs would be something new if they are something different )

QuickPaws

Just found a 98 4Runner 3.4 4X4 AT at a salvage yard in Illinois w/129k on the clock.. I almost got excited then I remembered I didn't have any money yet D:

BoostinChick

Same thing.

Also check http://www.engnbldr.com/

He sells complete kits that would help you with the head work.

874runnersr5

take the elocker if it has one!

bluAM2

yeah, by studs i meant head bolts, sorry. i got lost in my part storm. yes, do the water pump and definitely timing belt too. the felpro gaskets are still good gaskets by the way. they should last a while, the actual MLS gaskets are just that EXTRA protection.

i was looking at the 3.4 swap as well. plan on either getting a body lift kit or an aftermarket hood. that engine sits a little higher than the 3.0's and you'll have clearance issues i believe.

JigsN Rigs

you dont need to rebuild the whole head just to get by. pop the heads off and make sure there is no major damage and visible dips. Just replace the headgasket and head bolts and call it good. if your going to do a 3.4 i would say research your ass off and just do the headgasked and headbolts to keep her up and running right now. People always make some big deal like a HG job is gonna cost you big bucks.. yeah it can if you end up doing a full/upper rebuild. Just skip the machine shop. you should be fine. i have gotten away with it for years.

BoostinChick

A PROPER head gasket job will cost some coin. If the water pump/timing belt (and the rest of the assembly) have not been replaced recently then that is the time to do it. That alone is probably ~$200 in parts.