Regency

Split the upper radiator hose a good 6", water everywhere. Water levels were good before hand. Seemed sluggish driving into town but not just aweful. Went to crank it leaving the place i was and with clutch in and i think shifter just pushed up into 3rd from being parked, i turned it over, it turned just enough to know it turned like a low battery. So i tried again, same thing, so i pulled it out of gear hit the clutch cancel and it started right up.
So now taking off it was pretty sluggish. I drove a few miles and just trying to get me and my 5yr old boy home. After the few miles it was real sluggish and i was looking for a good place to park so i could check it out but all of a sudden, Boom the upper radiator hose went. So now in a mad rush for a place to park the smoke starts rolling out the back. But after that hose blew it was running great?!! Finally parked i open the hood to see water everywhere and on driver side of engine on the bottom of the hood and everything else was engine oil? So im looking for a place oil came from and i cant seem to find it.

Janos01

First of all what year & model is your Toyota?

Was the smoke out the back black or white?

What radiator hose blew?

And was the oil thick or milky?

osv

oil on the outside of the engine could be a real problem.

what does the dipstick look like? bottom of the radiator cap?

Regency

92 pickup 22re 5 speed
White/blue and filled the cab, it smelled like oil
Upper radiator hose
Oil is still kinda clear brown

Regency

Cranks and runs like normal after all that happened

Janos01

Most common symptoms of a bad HG are White smoke, erratic idle and milky oil. I would get the compression, oil and HG checked to see were else the issue my be.

mct75

A compression/leakdown test should tell you exactly what is going on.

Regency

Oil is fine color wise, water is fine color wise, runs good meaning not missing or anything.
Compression test, engine dry and cold
#1 - 155
#2 - 145
#3 - 150
#4 - 140
Also let sit for about 90 seconds and gauge didnt move.
Seems good to me, being im looking for a blown gasket.

After the test i cranked it and let it clear up and initally it smoked but went away quick. Never has done that so it may have been fuel since i didnt pull the relay.

Plugs looked OK, a little on the white side for my taste but i think they were good.

Regency

Janos01

Plugs look good. My have just been some water in the gas causing the issues.

Regency

No water in the gas, tank was cleaned and has only had like 3-4 fills. Fuel in the cylinders most likely since i didnt pull the relay.
Here is the thermostat at 210*F - 215*F in the water 1st pic, out the water in 2nd pic.
Doesnt seem like its open enough to me.

Regency

Going to go ahead and pick up new upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, and fix the leaking valve cover.
Probably do a good system flush.

millball

Put a new genuine Toyota two stage thermostat in it.

88xtra4x4

Word of warning about thermostats: They are made extremely cheap and it's possible to purchase multiple thermostats and not have any work. Ask me how I know.

Odin

I could be out of line here but I'd say your cooling system is a neglected one.
I don't know the radiator's history but from the pictures I'd seek a good shop and ask if it can be roded out.
Then I'd replace that radiator cap with one that doesn't have a pressure release lever on it. For me that lever style has been a source of premature leaks on several different vehicles.

The rust on that thermostat certainly isn't a good thing for it or the cooling system as a whole. I'd say you're system needs to be flushed good and the coolant replaced with Toyota red and distilled water.


About the only aftermarket thermostat I'd use is the Stant SuperStat. They have three different levels of thermostats- OE Type Thermostat, OE XACTstat , and the SuperStat.
The SuperStat is partially stainless steel and has more of a heavy duty construction than most but they can be bad out of the box too.
It's either that or back to OEM Toyota for me.

The OEM Toyota thermostats are made by Kuzeh. If you can find a cheap supplier for those you might just have the same thing as OEM for less.

Toyota Two stage 190 degree thermostat
OEM Toyota P/N: 90916-03070

Toyota one stage (normal) 180 degree thermostat
OEM Toyota P/N: 90916-03083

Odin

Get yourself some new plugs and some engine cleaner too. Let the truck sit overnight. In the morning spray it on and start cleaning. Don't forget to clean the area around the spark plugs. You don't want oil collecting there, it has a way of making it into the threads. Notice how most of your plugs don't show signs of burning oil but yet you have oil on the threads? It can effect both spark plug grounding and heat transfer.

Be sure to torque the valve cover to the Factory Service Manual specified
Torque: 5.9N–m, or 52in.–Ibf.

If you don't have a torque wrench that goes that low hand tighten the nuts until the nuts make contact then turn the nuts 3/4 of a turn. You don't want to over tighten them.

I had seen suggestions of 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn so when I did mine I turned them to 1/2 turn and they leaked. I'm now at 3/4 of a turn from seated and it appears to have stopped the leaking.

Once you're done cleaning and replacing the gaskets install the new plugs.

Regency

Yea i plan to give it a good cleaning before i start repairing it. I just need to make time to work on it. The plugs are at 3/4 turn at the moment, they were not near that when i removed them.

Odin

When you loosen spark plugs with aluminum gaskets they will never be where you think they should be. Remember that aluminum gasket is designed to crush, it won't spring back to the thickness it started out at.
Because of this I highly recommend using the actual torque specification when installing used spark plugs.


In fact, in the link below Denso specifies ABOUT- 1/12 - of a turn from seated when re-using the crush washer.
That is to say, when installing used spark plugs.
http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ion/index.html

Also from the link:
Tightening more than the tightening angles and torques shown on the right could result in damage to the engine (stripped threads) and furthermore could result in the plug coming off at the thread.




The only reason to re-torque used spark plugs back to 1/2 of a turn (Denso's specification from the link) is if you had installed new crush washers, but that is uncommon these days.
The Toyota Factory Service Manual only states the Spark Plug Torque at 18 N-m, or 13 ft-lbf with fresh plugs. If you wipe on some anti seize this torque specification must be reduced.

Regency

Hmm I did not know that.
I will get new ones when I work on it and start with 1/2 turn.

Thanks Odin for your knowledge.

Odin

From NGK: http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppor...x.asp?mode=nml

The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it's hot and installation may prove difficult.

If you want to follow that rule this link will be helpful.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-holes-289296/