Blown Engine - 3.0L - Need Opinions, Options
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Blown Engine - 3.0L - Need Opinions, Options
I am not surprised that the 3.0L motor went POOF (241,469 miles). It had to go sooner or later. I did not investigate anything today. Instead, I looked at my options. I'd like to hear from others who faced these questions and what you did and why you did it. Also include costs, time, and etceteras, like books, videos and manuals. If it starts, I'll get pics and maybe some video. I am disgusted at this point as I was hoping I could rebuild the 4.3L before the 3.0L gave up the ghost.
Be advised I live in an apartment and my garage is actually a storage unit, 10' x 20'.
Option A) Rebuild the 3.0L. Why though. I'd still have an underpowered 3.0L.
What did this cost and how long did it take. Where'd you get, buy, order your parts? Least favorable option.
Option B) Buy a rebuilt 3.0L. Why. I'd still have an under powered 3.0L. Research shows a few who sell rebuilt 89 3.0L motors but not many of these guys rebuild 88 3.0L motors. Most were all over $2,000.oo. One place was $2900. This would be the fastest option, but least likely to happen.
Option C) I bought an 89 S 10 Blazer to strip and am ready for a rebuild of the 4.3L motor. This will take me time and I've never done this major of a project before. What publications would be helpful to help accomplish this task? Where'd you get your rebuild kits from?
Option D) Use rebuildable motor as core and buy a rebuilt from someone. Any good rebuilders of 4.3L motors out there? This may or may not be the 2nd fastest option, probably the 3rd fastest option. I found many rebuilt 4.3L motors out there ranging from $1200.oo to $1800.oo, with and without core charges. Shipping usually $250.oo or less.
Option E) Swap a 3.4L into the old 4Runner. If you've done this swap, chime in on costs, extra parts needed, books, manuals needed. This might be the 2nd fastest option.
Be advised I live in an apartment and my garage is actually a storage unit, 10' x 20'.
Option A) Rebuild the 3.0L. Why though. I'd still have an underpowered 3.0L.
What did this cost and how long did it take. Where'd you get, buy, order your parts? Least favorable option.
Option B) Buy a rebuilt 3.0L. Why. I'd still have an under powered 3.0L. Research shows a few who sell rebuilt 89 3.0L motors but not many of these guys rebuild 88 3.0L motors. Most were all over $2,000.oo. One place was $2900. This would be the fastest option, but least likely to happen.
Option C) I bought an 89 S 10 Blazer to strip and am ready for a rebuild of the 4.3L motor. This will take me time and I've never done this major of a project before. What publications would be helpful to help accomplish this task? Where'd you get your rebuild kits from?
Option D) Use rebuildable motor as core and buy a rebuilt from someone. Any good rebuilders of 4.3L motors out there? This may or may not be the 2nd fastest option, probably the 3rd fastest option. I found many rebuilt 4.3L motors out there ranging from $1200.oo to $1800.oo, with and without core charges. Shipping usually $250.oo or less.
Option E) Swap a 3.4L into the old 4Runner. If you've done this swap, chime in on costs, extra parts needed, books, manuals needed. This might be the 2nd fastest option.
#2
Options are: cheap, fast and right
Pick two. That will determine which motor you swap.
3.0 is crap. Useless option.
4.3 good but bastardized.
3.4 is reliable and done right in essence factory.
:wabbit2:
Pick two. That will determine which motor you swap.
3.0 is crap. Useless option.
4.3 good but bastardized.
3.4 is reliable and done right in essence factory.
:wabbit2:
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
I agree but the 3.4L probably is the costliest option. I do like the fact that it is practically a bolt-up. I can use my 5 speed trans, but I'll need to swap an input shaft to do it.
Why did I accumulate so many 3.0L parts?
The Chevy 4.3L option is the easiest for me because I already have a complete one, computer, harnesses, motor, trans (700R4).
I have not done any research on a 3.4L swap. Don't know if there are any rebuilders out there doing these.
Thanks.
Phil
Why did I accumulate so many 3.0L parts?
The Chevy 4.3L option is the easiest for me because I already have a complete one, computer, harnesses, motor, trans (700R4).
I have not done any research on a 3.4L swap. Don't know if there are any rebuilders out there doing these.
Thanks.
Phil
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
looks like the fastest and cheapest thing to do is fix the head gasket problem and hope nothing else went kablooey.
whats good better best for brands? does everybody go with dealer head gaskets?
what's not to buy?
thanks.
phil
whats good better best for brands? does everybody go with dealer head gaskets?
what's not to buy?
thanks.
phil
#5
Contributing Member
All I can say is make sure you get NEW head bolts if you replace the head gasket. I re-used mine only to find out later they are torque-to-yield bolts, and so they stretch when torqued. Had to redo the HG (again) 3,000 miles later. Also replace the Knock Sensor wire while you have the intake plenum off. $11 part and if you don't you'll pull it all back off after you're done to switch it out. Good luck!!
#7
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
hey man....if you have forever to read through my son's thread, you will see we removed and rebuilt his 3.0 ans got it running and is currently my daily driver.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
the rebuilt 3.4L are pricey, 2 to 3 times what a 4.3L are.
Last edited by phildelfino; 08-16-2011 at 12:42 PM.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Toyota head gaskets $186.oo
Toyota head bolts $285.oo- are they gold plated?
Toyota knock sensor wire $ 19.oo
Toyota head bolt washers $29.60
headbolts.com head bolts $ 37.oo shipped
saving $250.oo by buying bolts from ARP, PRICELESS....
i am fortunate to work for a place that allows time off when it is slow, so besides time, i am into these head gaskets for approx. $275.oo-$280.oo.
four days off, see if i can get'er dun.
Toyota head bolts $285.oo- are they gold plated?
Toyota knock sensor wire $ 19.oo
Toyota head bolt washers $29.60
headbolts.com head bolts $ 37.oo shipped
saving $250.oo by buying bolts from ARP, PRICELESS....
i am fortunate to work for a place that allows time off when it is slow, so besides time, i am into these head gaskets for approx. $275.oo-$280.oo.
four days off, see if i can get'er dun.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
i figure i can source the valve cover gaskets, intake and throttle body gaskets with napa.
#14
You can do the headgaskets but they are going to blow in 30-40k. Especially since you are doing it on the cheap.
If any water got in the oil, you need to put bearings in the bottom end. If you don't, you will have a knock inn less than 10k miles.
3.4L swaps are not super costly, especially since you already have a 3.0 engine. Mine is spendy, but simply because I have to purchase a myriad of parts I didn't have in my 22RE 4Runner. Buy a rolled/wrecked 4Runner/Tacoma/T100, take the engine and wiring, part the rest, and the money you make back will pay for the swap. Thats what I have done with 3 engines. I am -$1000 into my swap so far. The option seems pretty obvious to me. Pay for junk 3.0 gaskets, or let the 3.4L swap pay YOU to do it. I think I would rather have the $1000
If any water got in the oil, you need to put bearings in the bottom end. If you don't, you will have a knock inn less than 10k miles.
3.4L swaps are not super costly, especially since you already have a 3.0 engine. Mine is spendy, but simply because I have to purchase a myriad of parts I didn't have in my 22RE 4Runner. Buy a rolled/wrecked 4Runner/Tacoma/T100, take the engine and wiring, part the rest, and the money you make back will pay for the swap. Thats what I have done with 3 engines. I am -$1000 into my swap so far. The option seems pretty obvious to me. Pay for junk 3.0 gaskets, or let the 3.4L swap pay YOU to do it. I think I would rather have the $1000
#15
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
kitteh is shmart
Phil.....the difference is Joe's was leaking from the valve cover's and "maybe", just maybe had a head gasket failure at #1 cylinder.
just off the top of my head, I would think a PROPER head gasket ob is going to run around $400 to $500......$300 or so of that for the rebuild and the rest for odds and ends and also depending on how far you are going. for us it was down to the block and everything freshened up except for pistons and crank. if we get 30k out of this motor i will feel it is time and money well spent considering his has 248k on it now.
if you can filter through the BS in his thread, I have listed some parts sources and such. since we replace the oil pump and water pump as well, we went with AISIN.
also remember, we tried to eliminate the heat problem in the motor by installing headers........I read soooo many times about the crossover pipe cooking those last 2 cylinders and valves causing failure, that we figured that was a worthwhile investment if not a performance mod
Phil.....the difference is Joe's was leaking from the valve cover's and "maybe", just maybe had a head gasket failure at #1 cylinder.
just off the top of my head, I would think a PROPER head gasket ob is going to run around $400 to $500......$300 or so of that for the rebuild and the rest for odds and ends and also depending on how far you are going. for us it was down to the block and everything freshened up except for pistons and crank. if we get 30k out of this motor i will feel it is time and money well spent considering his has 248k on it now.
if you can filter through the BS in his thread, I have listed some parts sources and such. since we replace the oil pump and water pump as well, we went with AISIN.
also remember, we tried to eliminate the heat problem in the motor by installing headers........I read soooo many times about the crossover pipe cooking those last 2 cylinders and valves causing failure, that we figured that was a worthwhile investment if not a performance mod
Last edited by 92 TOY; 08-19-2011 at 02:34 AM.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Why anyone would WANT to work on this engine is beyond me.
I am thinking of pulling it and looking at installing something else. Now if the 3.4L engine is anything like this, forget that too.
Jerry (92Toy), I see what you mean about something always in the way trying to remove the intake, something alse connected to it.
#17
The 3.4L is light years better than the 3.0
Not only in head design, in every other aspect. Basically they took everything that was junk and difficult to work on the with the 3.0 (which was everything) and made it user friendly. All while improving horsepower, MPG's, temps, etc etc etc. The 3.4L 5VZ is one of the best motors Toyota ever designed. The 3.0L is one of the WORST engines ever designed by anyone anywhere.
Not only in head design, in every other aspect. Basically they took everything that was junk and difficult to work on the with the 3.0 (which was everything) and made it user friendly. All while improving horsepower, MPG's, temps, etc etc etc. The 3.4L 5VZ is one of the best motors Toyota ever designed. The 3.0L is one of the WORST engines ever designed by anyone anywhere.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
You can do the headgaskets but they are going to blow in 30-40k. Especially since you are doing it on the cheap.
If any water got in the oil, you need to put bearings in the bottom end. If you don't, you will have a knock inn less than 10k miles.
3.4L swaps are not super costly, especially since you already have a 3.0 engine. Mine is spendy, but simply because I have to purchase a myriad of parts I didn't have in my 22RE 4Runner. Buy a rolled/wrecked 4Runner/Tacoma/T100, take the engine and wiring, part the rest, and the money you make back will pay for the swap. Thats what I have done with 3 engines. I am -$1000 into my swap so far. The option seems pretty obvious to me. Pay for junk 3.0 gaskets, or let the 3.4L swap pay YOU to do it. I think I would rather have the $1000
If any water got in the oil, you need to put bearings in the bottom end. If you don't, you will have a knock inn less than 10k miles.
3.4L swaps are not super costly, especially since you already have a 3.0 engine. Mine is spendy, but simply because I have to purchase a myriad of parts I didn't have in my 22RE 4Runner. Buy a rolled/wrecked 4Runner/Tacoma/T100, take the engine and wiring, part the rest, and the money you make back will pay for the swap. Thats what I have done with 3 engines. I am -$1000 into my swap so far. The option seems pretty obvious to me. Pay for junk 3.0 gaskets, or let the 3.4L swap pay YOU to do it. I think I would rather have the $1000
Not too encouraging of a report. AFAIK, I didn't get any antifreeze in the oil.
Drained it already. It was coming out the tailpipe, shooting up to 15 feet. Took off the plenum and drained the coolant out of it. Took off the plastic intake-air cleaner assy and same thing.
Sounds like putting any money into this without a full rebuild will not be worth it.
I have done what you did only I bought an 89 S10 Blazer. I had a 91 chevy S10 P/U back in the day and it served me well. I know about these, so probably gonna do this. It is easier and cheaper to work on.
#20
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im in the middle of dropping a 4.3 vortec "W" i picked up for $400 into my 92 4runner. i started the the same way with a blown head gasket on the 3.0l got it apart and thought who in their right mind would put there time and money rebuilding such a crap motor that isnt even that impressive brand new. i looked around and found the 4.3 was going to be easiest for me since i already have a vehicle i can strip parts from. i have a 4.3 with 200k on it in my s-10 and its still strong so ill use that. anyway thats my take on it ill let you know if i run into any issues