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Blower motor Q's.......

Old 03-08-2009, 02:40 PM
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Blower motor Q's.......

I have poked around a few of the threads here regarding this subject. I have a couple of questions though.
I can hear a click when I try to turn on the heater (fan motor). Can I assume the relay is doing it's job and the click I am hearing is it doing so?
Why do I keep reading that the dash needs to be torn out to replace the motor? According to this exploded view it will drop right out.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...a%3DN%26um%3D1
I really appreciate any help.
Old 03-08-2009, 04:55 PM
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It would help us if we knew what your your truck was ?, if its an 84-88 then you can remove the blower motor by removing the three bolts holding it in place and pulling it out. its a little tight working in that area, but ive done it. have you checked the resistor and the fan switch to see if there good ?.
Old 03-08-2009, 06:07 PM
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Sorry, 86 toy p/u 22r 4wd. I have not checked switch or resistor. Is checking the resistor going to be similar to a fuse? How would I go about checking the switch?
Old 03-08-2009, 11:11 PM
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First you should get the correct drawing of the mechanism....I doubt your truck has an electrically operated recirculate function as depicted in your posted diagram. Definitely check the resistor...it's on the firewall, to the front of the fan. You may have to drop the glovebox(easy) to access it. My last resistor lasted about 6 years. The fan + motor drops out of it's housing, with some fiddling...it's a tight fit. Once out the motor is easily tested by hooking up 12V DC to it.
Old 03-08-2009, 11:37 PM
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Agree with Keith's advice. Mine is a 1990 so may differ from yours, but from what I've seen on older toyota trucks like yours, it is likely similar.

When my resistor went (many years ago now), the fan would only run in "high" mode. If I recall correctly there are resistors for the other speeds which burned out on mine, but the high speed is a direct connection, so nothing to burn out.

So if your fan runs only on high - it is the resistor.

You might want to direct connect your blower motor to 12V power just to make sure it isn't something else - for instance - the relay - before you remove it. You really can't screw it up - worst case the fan will run backwards. Just make sure you connect direct to the motor. If it won't run with direct connect you will need to change the blower motor.

when I replaced my blower motor a few months ago (it had started ratling), all I had to do was remove the glove box.


Not much room, and I had just enough flex in the housing to pull the motor. I is only held by three screws, but the back one is a real pain to get at, so it took a variety of of woble extensions and cursing to get it back in. I also had to get the fan off the old spindle and it was fixed on there pretty solid. took about 2 hours in all, so not a real difficult job, just tought to get at.
Old 03-09-2009, 07:13 AM
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So if your fan runs only on high - it is the resistor.
All I'm getting is a "click" when I try and turn it on. I'll try your suggestions for testing the motor and I'll check the resistor.
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