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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 11-28-2011, 08:22 PM   #1
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Bleeding power steering pump.

So, seeing as how I had much better access to my ps pump while doing my timing belt/water pump, I deceided to replace it as well(leaked like a seive). The instructions that came w/the pump talked about bleeding the system after the replacement. I have read a few threads on Yotatech about pump R&R's, but never anything mentioned about bleeding the system afterwords. Also, checked a Chilton's manual, and it said that ,trucks equiped with rear abs, also needed to have the brake system bled as well after replacing the ps pump. The instuctions were somewhat vague concerning this. Can anyone help me out with this?
Regards, Rick
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:14 AM   #2
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Wink

Your power steering is kinda self bleeding.

***By this time you would have all ready started vehicle and cycled left to right on the stands just checking for leaks at least I do . Check fluid for level and that it is not real foamy .

Remove stands turn back and forth lock to lock a few times

Check fluid top off if needed unless I have been doing it wrong forever that should do the trick

Why would the Brakes have anything to do with the power steering pump.

I have never heard of that and it makes no sense .

There should never be a mixing of brake fluid with anything!!!

Are there Brake lines that need to be removed to get the pump out?? That chiltons may have neglected to mention.

Last edited by wyoming9; 11-29-2011 at 12:29 AM. Reason: more wisdom
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mt4runner View Post
So, seeing as how I had much better access to my ps pump while doing my timing belt/water pump, I deceided to replace it as well(leaked like a seive). The instructions that came w/the pump talked about bleeding the system after the replacement. I have read a few threads on Yotatech about pump R&R's, but never anything mentioned about bleeding the system afterwords. Also, checked a Chilton's manual, and it said that ,trucks equiped with rear abs, also needed to have the brake system bled as well after replacing the ps pump. The instuctions were somewhat vague concerning this. Can anyone help me out with this?

Regards, Rick
As stated above, just turn the wheel all the way left and right a bunch of times while on stands and it will self bleed. I rebuilt mine and followed this FSM procedure and its still fine.

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Why would the Brakes have anything to do with the power steering pump.

I have never heard of that and it makes no sense.
This makes me feel better

I made the same comment not too long ago and was rightfully corrected with this.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/absactua.pdf

Mine is an '87 which is pre-rear ABS...
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Last edited by angrybob; 11-29-2011 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:15 PM   #4
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Well,that sheds some light on the issue! Thanks angrybob.
Rick
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:23 PM   #5
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Wink

I see what they did having never seen one in person it still makes no sense.

They are using the pressure from the power steering pump to supply a constant pressure when needed to the rear anti-lock brakes.

For us people unable to do our own braking .

After looking again this being the FSM of course you would need to check the pressure to make sure the pump pressure is what it needs to be. If you check the brake pressure of course you need to bleed the brakes.

The drawings that were posted the power steering fluid does not co mingle with brake fluid so unless your rear anti lock brakes are the problem.

Just bleed your power steering after the pump replacement or rebuilding.

The Haynes book never mentions this at all go figure.

Last edited by wyoming9; 11-29-2011 at 02:31 PM. Reason: more wisdom
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:31 PM   #6
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Wyoming9, just curious, why do I need to have the front up on stands the first time I go lock to lock while bleeding the power steering?
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:32 PM   #7
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I will be putting on a new high pressure side of the PS unit tomorrow on my 93 after I pick it up at NAPA and I too have done PS pump replacement and hose replacements in the past on lots of makes and models and never heard of PS bleeding till now, I do what they said above is the procedure I have used and still do. Unlike brakes that don't have a circulating pump they need to be bleed while the PS unit does have one and don't need bleed since it continually pumps fluid while engine running and it does take a while to burn up a pumps once it uses up all the remaining fluid in it, but will very much so survive long enough to go from starting engine to pouring fluid in reservoir and watch the bubbles come up for a while, and I check it the next day also...
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:44 PM   #8
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Wyoming9, just curious, why do I need to have the front up on stands the first time I go lock to lock while bleeding the power steering?
I turned the wheel left to right 4-5 times with the I/G ON but engine OFF before doing it with the engine on. The engine OFF turns are done on stands. FSM says to do it with engine on (no mention of engine off) at 1000RPM 4-5 times.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:18 PM   #9
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best way to minimize burning up the pump would be to have front wheels off the ground. fill reservoir up. dont have engine running. turn wheel lock to lock a few times while topping of the reservoir.

another trick i do at work because time is money. i fill reservoir up, start the car for a few seconds or till the pump makes noise. quickly turn off. top reservoir up and repeat. usually takes two quick starts and i can leave it running (as long as the pump isnt whining too loud or at all) keep it running with cap off till you dont see much foam left. done
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:14 PM   #10
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Does anyone have the torque specs for the ps pulley nut?
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:37 PM   #11
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according to alldata
Temporarily install pulley nut and check rotating torque, 2.4 inch lbs. or less should be indicated.

i just shot it on with my electric impact by feel
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:54 PM   #12
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I ran across the recommended torque value...32ft lbs. I fired up her up for a few seconds, no noise no bubbling or foaming, started her again, took wheels lock to lock, added about 2-3- oz. of ATF. No more leaks.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:16 PM   #13
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glad you got it fixed
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:16 PM
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