Bleed Gas to motor...3vze
06-04-2009, 04:00 PM
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Bleed Gas to motor...3vze
Just got done working on the truck and trying to get the truck to start after replaceing the knock sensor. Is their a way to bleed gas back into the motor? since we took it all apart...
So how can I bleed gas into the motor after taking off the intake to replace the knock sensor.
So how can I bleed gas into the motor after taking off the intake to replace the knock sensor.
06-05-2009, 07:05 AM
#5
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Jump the B+ and FP terminals in the check connector and then turn the key to the "on" position (but don't start). You should hear the pump running and fuel moving in the fuel pressure regulator and hoses under the hood.
06-05-2009, 07:40 AM
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you shouldn't have to bleed it at all. Just start it!
With my past experiences (running out of gas!) it takes a little bit for it to get started so be patient. Don't worry if it doesn't start when its first turned over.
Good luck!
With my past experiences (running out of gas!) it takes a little bit for it to get started so be patient. Don't worry if it doesn't start when its first turned over.
Good luck!
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06-26-2009, 01:28 PM
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no fuel pressure
i just did head gaskets,water pump, timming belt, throttle body cleaning, and now i have no fuel pressure? it will run of starter fluid directly can anyone help? it is a 3vz
06-26-2009, 02:12 PM
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"i just did head gaskets,water pump, timming belt, throttle body cleaning, and now i have no fuel pressure? it will run of starter fluid directly can anyone help? it is a 3vz"
Sometimes the fuel pump fires off as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the position that lights up all the idiot lights on the dash but I am not sure about the yota. If, so then just cycle the ignition switch a few times to build up to the proper psi. I'm not sure but I am just going to go ahead and assume that stepping on the gas peddle to prime it, is not going to do anything. The computer controls the action here. So here is what I would do on my rig.
First, I would have the fire department and paramedics standing by.
Next, I would don a full nomex suit.
I would then grab a 12mm wrench with my nomex gloves and crack this baby open.
Try not to round the corners as I have.
I would not take out the bolt, just loosen it.
Then I would either cycle the ignition switch until the dangerous fluid leaks out. Or I would crank the engine until dangerous fluid leaks out. If I was lucky enough to have big old mean nasty fluid come out AND I have not started an engine fire yet, then I just wrench that baby shut.
Next, you have a HAZMAT team come out and clean up your mess.
Then I would stage that mechanical arm thing from Iron Man over the engine with a fire extinguisher as I spray some even meaner and more dangerous ether in the intake and begin cranking the starter. It will start. Hopefully, it will only take a few seconds for the fuel line to build PSI and take over. But unless you have that thing from Iron Man at your disposal, I strongly recommend against this reckless behavior.
Sometimes the fuel pump fires off as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the position that lights up all the idiot lights on the dash but I am not sure about the yota. If, so then just cycle the ignition switch a few times to build up to the proper psi. I'm not sure but I am just going to go ahead and assume that stepping on the gas peddle to prime it, is not going to do anything. The computer controls the action here. So here is what I would do on my rig.
First, I would have the fire department and paramedics standing by.
Next, I would don a full nomex suit.
I would then grab a 12mm wrench with my nomex gloves and crack this baby open.
Try not to round the corners as I have.
I would not take out the bolt, just loosen it.
Then I would either cycle the ignition switch until the dangerous fluid leaks out. Or I would crank the engine until dangerous fluid leaks out. If I was lucky enough to have big old mean nasty fluid come out AND I have not started an engine fire yet, then I just wrench that baby shut.
Next, you have a HAZMAT team come out and clean up your mess.
Then I would stage that mechanical arm thing from Iron Man over the engine with a fire extinguisher as I spray some even meaner and more dangerous ether in the intake and begin cranking the starter. It will start. Hopefully, it will only take a few seconds for the fuel line to build PSI and take over. But unless you have that thing from Iron Man at your disposal, I strongly recommend against this reckless behavior.
Last edited by jackwolf; 06-26-2009 at 07:16 PM.
06-26-2009, 03:15 PM
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Check your fuses..if none are blown, then in the diagnostic box under the hood, jump the terminals Fp and b+, run back to the fuel tank and see if the fuel pump is running (dont leave this for long, this bypasses the fuse)...if it is, then you have a problem elsewhere. If it doesnt, then you either have an open in the wiring or the pump is bad
06-26-2009, 07:09 PM
#12
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"i just did head gaskets,water pump, timming belt, throttle body cleaning, and now i have no fuel pressure? it will run of starter fluid directly can anyone help? it is a 3vz"
Sometimes the fuel pump fires off as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the position that lights up all the idiot lights on the dash but I am not sure about the yota. If, so then just cycle the ignition switch a few times to build up to the proper psi. I'm not sure but I am just going to go ahead and assume that stepping on the gas peddle to prime it, is not going to do anything. The computer controls the action here. So here is what I would do on my rig.
First, I would have the fire department and paramedics standing by.
Next, I would don a full nomex suit.
I would then grab a 12mm wrench with my nomex gloves and crack this baby open.
Try not to round the corners as I have.
I would not take out the bolt, just loosen it.
Then I would either cycle the ignition switch until the dangerous fluid leaks out. Or I would crank the engine until dangerous fluid leaks out. If I was lucky enough to have big old mean nasty fluid come out AND I have not started an engine fire yet, then I just wrench that baby shut.
Next, you have a HAZMAT team come out and clean up your mess.
Then I would stage that mechanical arm thing from Iron Man over the engine with a fire extinguisher as I spray some even meaner and more dangerous ether in the intake and begin cracking the starter. It will start. Hopefully, it will only take a few seconds for the fuel line to build PSI and take over. But unless you have that thing from Iron Man at your disposal, I strongly recommend against this reckless behavior.
Sometimes the fuel pump fires off as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the position that lights up all the idiot lights on the dash but I am not sure about the yota. If, so then just cycle the ignition switch a few times to build up to the proper psi. I'm not sure but I am just going to go ahead and assume that stepping on the gas peddle to prime it, is not going to do anything. The computer controls the action here. So here is what I would do on my rig.
First, I would have the fire department and paramedics standing by.
Next, I would don a full nomex suit.
I would then grab a 12mm wrench with my nomex gloves and crack this baby open.
Try not to round the corners as I have.
I would not take out the bolt, just loosen it.
Then I would either cycle the ignition switch until the dangerous fluid leaks out. Or I would crank the engine until dangerous fluid leaks out. If I was lucky enough to have big old mean nasty fluid come out AND I have not started an engine fire yet, then I just wrench that baby shut.
Next, you have a HAZMAT team come out and clean up your mess.
Then I would stage that mechanical arm thing from Iron Man over the engine with a fire extinguisher as I spray some even meaner and more dangerous ether in the intake and begin cracking the starter. It will start. Hopefully, it will only take a few seconds for the fuel line to build PSI and take over. But unless you have that thing from Iron Man at your disposal, I strongly recommend against this reckless behavior.
Now that's funny!
12-29-2023, 04:52 PM
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Need more info on this
how long should you do this? did it for about 5- 10 seconds it ended up flooding every cylinder with fuel and hydrolocked the engine bout burned the truck down clearing the cylinders…
12-30-2023, 08:48 AM
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Welcome to YotaTech.
I'm guessing a bad injector (stuck open).
When the engine isn't running (no igf signal from distributor) the injectors should remain closed. So even thought the fuel rail is pressurized, no fuel will enter the intake manifold (or cylinders). You should be able to run the fuel pump until the battery dies (a long time) without flooding anything.
I'm guessing a bad injector (stuck open).
When the engine isn't running (no igf signal from distributor) the injectors should remain closed. So even thought the fuel rail is pressurized, no fuel will enter the intake manifold (or cylinders). You should be able to run the fuel pump until the battery dies (a long time) without flooding anything.
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millball (12-30-2023)
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