BLAZELAND LT IN 87 4RUNNER INSTALLED / CV comment and Question.
09-28-2015, 09:44 AM
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BLAZELAND LT IN 87 4RUNNER INSTALLED / CV comment and Question.
Order a BLAZELAND LT kit and put in in over last week. Nate has been super helpful. Took me and my buddy about a week after work to put everything in. It could be done way faster but we are slow and BS too much.
Little about the rig. 87 4RUNNER "Bueller" 3" BL 4.88 on 35s.
Originally had the 3" BL to clear 33s. With the Blazeland Set up can clear 35s. (Save your BL comments. Been running it for years and ZERO Problems and love how it makes working on it so easy.
Bought Sway A Way Tbars and Bilstein 5100s and some reman CV 100 from Oreilly's. I bought remans cause I heard somewhere that the remans would be Toyota that were ramanned , BAD IDEA more on that later.
The Blazeland kit feels great and I have all the stuff to do 63" Chevy swap but in the meantime we just added an add a leaf from Low range. It worked really well. No more bottoming out over big dips and bumps and flexes pretty good. Was worried cause they seemed so stiff when putting them in. Also put in some 3" TG spacers to widen the back for now.
The Good:
Overall love the flex, rides bitching on and off road. Took it out to Holcomb Creek and loved how the suspension performed! Love the stance makes Bueller feel way more stable.
The Bad:
So going along Holcomb Creek and doing great but wishing I had the 4.7 gears in the Tcase (mechanic let me down was supposed to be done) but other than that it was handling everything GREAT! Except get down to the second to the last Rock Garden and after making through it with ease get done and my passenger CV grenades on (the inside joint not the one by the wheel) seriously nothing but some real small rocks, I mean nothing like it had been through all day. Good news is I just zipped tied to the lower arm and came up to the "gatekeeper" exit it for us and there was a group coming the other way with a Rubicon hung up bad! It seriously took them like 40 minutes to get the guy off. Once they did I drove through it like pulling into my driveway, with a busted CV and all.
Solution (sort of):
Ok so cheap remans are a no no and I suspect that one was defective from the start. So I was just going to order some the RCV ones that are supposed to be bullet proof. These...
https://www.wildwestoffroad.com/cata...5/prod_34.html
Well after some calling around RCV doesn't makes these anymore , I guess cause they were having problems with the engaging the 4 wheel drive but they are working on getting it corrected and should have some by the end of the year, well see.
In the meantime here are my choices as I see them. The cheap Oreilly ones are lifetime guaranteed but screw that I don't like stuff breaking on the trail. I can buy some Toyota OEM ones but they are $400 a piece. I could look for some OEM at salvage yards but I wouldn't know if they are OEM are not. Or I guess these guys make remanned ones from Toyota http://www.axlesunlimitedinc.com/contactUs.htm or
https://www.cardone.com/products/dri...n-products-new or
What?? any ideas? I don't want to hear just put a SAS in it
Little about the rig. 87 4RUNNER "Bueller" 3" BL 4.88 on 35s.
Originally had the 3" BL to clear 33s. With the Blazeland Set up can clear 35s. (Save your BL comments. Been running it for years and ZERO Problems and love how it makes working on it so easy.
Bought Sway A Way Tbars and Bilstein 5100s and some reman CV 100 from Oreilly's. I bought remans cause I heard somewhere that the remans would be Toyota that were ramanned , BAD IDEA more on that later.
The Blazeland kit feels great and I have all the stuff to do 63" Chevy swap but in the meantime we just added an add a leaf from Low range. It worked really well. No more bottoming out over big dips and bumps and flexes pretty good. Was worried cause they seemed so stiff when putting them in. Also put in some 3" TG spacers to widen the back for now.
The Good:
Overall love the flex, rides bitching on and off road. Took it out to Holcomb Creek and loved how the suspension performed! Love the stance makes Bueller feel way more stable.
The Bad:
So going along Holcomb Creek and doing great but wishing I had the 4.7 gears in the Tcase (mechanic let me down was supposed to be done) but other than that it was handling everything GREAT! Except get down to the second to the last Rock Garden and after making through it with ease get done and my passenger CV grenades on (the inside joint not the one by the wheel) seriously nothing but some real small rocks, I mean nothing like it had been through all day. Good news is I just zipped tied to the lower arm and came up to the "gatekeeper" exit it for us and there was a group coming the other way with a Rubicon hung up bad! It seriously took them like 40 minutes to get the guy off. Once they did I drove through it like pulling into my driveway, with a busted CV and all.
Solution (sort of):
Ok so cheap remans are a no no and I suspect that one was defective from the start. So I was just going to order some the RCV ones that are supposed to be bullet proof. These...
https://www.wildwestoffroad.com/cata...5/prod_34.html
Well after some calling around RCV doesn't makes these anymore , I guess cause they were having problems with the engaging the 4 wheel drive but they are working on getting it corrected and should have some by the end of the year, well see.
In the meantime here are my choices as I see them. The cheap Oreilly ones are lifetime guaranteed but screw that I don't like stuff breaking on the trail. I can buy some Toyota OEM ones but they are $400 a piece. I could look for some OEM at salvage yards but I wouldn't know if they are OEM are not. Or I guess these guys make remanned ones from Toyota http://www.axlesunlimitedinc.com/contactUs.htm or
https://www.cardone.com/products/dri...n-products-new or
What?? any ideas? I don't want to hear just put a SAS in it
09-28-2015, 03:05 PM
#5
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I just read through this thread and have a couple of comments and questions that may help with the CVs. In the early photos, in the garage, it looks like you are running low profile bump stops. Later photos I cannot tell if its low profile or you went back to factory? Anyway low profile bump stops will allow too much up travel. Adversely, low profile "droop" stops will allow too much down travel. Either up or down, too much travel will exceed the operation angles of the CV. Too much wheel travel will also effect the plunge in the tripod barrel as it too has operational limits that can be exceeded. Either will cause the CV assembly to damage itself. Use factory bump and droop stops to limit travel as needed to protect CVs, BJs and Tie Rod Ends. These are items that can fluctuate between aftermarket brands as well as original equipment. It is always a good idea to include these checks when tuning the suspension.
As for aftermarket vs. Original Equipment Manufacturer when it comes to CVs there is a lot of variables. One item that can be easily checked is the appearance of the barrel lid or cap. The type of cap the OME uses looks like this.
The flat lid design uses a taller barrel and will bind earlier.
As for aftermarket vs. Original Equipment Manufacturer when it comes to CVs there is a lot of variables. One item that can be easily checked is the appearance of the barrel lid or cap. The type of cap the OME uses looks like this.
The flat lid design uses a taller barrel and will bind earlier.
Last edited by BlazeN8; 09-28-2015 at 06:58 PM.
09-28-2015, 07:40 PM
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Yeah still running the low pro stops and will change that out. The remans did have the look of a "flower" instead of just round...
I scored some OEM CVs off a T100 with just 33k so will see how that goes.
I scored some OEM CVs off a T100 with just 33k so will see how that goes.
09-29-2015, 10:51 AM
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Ok so I scored some OEM CV axles they should be good to go and I'll put in the regular bump stops. I still think there was something wrong with the first CV though, can't wait to get back out there with it.
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09-29-2015, 06:48 PM
#8
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If possible, take some comparison photos of the different axles and show and tell. Measure the barrel length, check out angle, and plunge. See where they differ. My general perception was the OEM had better features and performance.
09-29-2015, 07:34 PM
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Knock the studs out of the diff flanges and put bolts/nuts on them. Hop over to orielly and buy one or 2 spares. If one breaks on the trail, 20 minutes and you have a fresh cv. After trail ride, on your way home, swing by oriellys, pick up a new spare for free. Better than spending 400 (I was quoted $640 here) every time you need to replace a factory one. Price to pay man. Hell, I work oh Heeps for a living, and those guys spend a fortune on tie rod ends and track bars cause those go bad all the time when wheeling.
09-30-2015, 08:56 AM
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In the meantime I'm having 4.7 gears put in the Tcase as this seems like a must after doing Holcomb Creek and from what the interwebs and other people I talk to this will also help CVs
On a side not I'm also going to put a throttle lever on the stick to give me more control.
09-30-2015, 08:58 AM
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Knock the studs out of the diff flanges and put bolts/nuts on them. Hop over to orielly and buy one or 2 spares. If one breaks on the trail, 20 minutes and you have a fresh cv. After trail ride, on your way home, swing by oriellys, pick up a new spare for free. Better than spending 400 (I was quoted $640 here) every time you need to replace a factory one. Price to pay man. Hell, I work oh Heeps for a living, and those guys spend a fortune on tie rod ends and track bars cause those go bad all the time when wheeling.
Last edited by JookUpVandetti; 09-30-2015 at 08:59 AM.
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