rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

So I recently posted that I was getting a code of 24, Well I noticed that there are a ton of splicing on the wire harness mainly the connection to the VAFM. Well is a 1986 toyota pickup, but the person I bought it from they did a 1989 22re enigne swap in it, so they put all the 1989 stuff in the truck. Well when they hooked up the wiring, It looks like a big mess! And im pretty sure somewhere in that big mess is my problem why I cannot get my truck to run good, Im no electrican, So I do not have one clue to as where to start, All I can think of now is too find a new wiring harness? Another qeustion

I have a complete 1989 toyota 22re 4 runner automatic, would the wiring harness and computer work in that pickup? but my pickup is a 5speed. And since the 4 runner is an automatic does the computer tell it when to shift, or does it have a seperate computer for that? Thanks

AND IS THERE A SCHEMATIC ANYWHERE THAT WOULD TELL ME HOW TO FIX THIS WIRING?

I mean the truck will run, I just cannot get a good idle, and it throws codes at me.

THESE ARE THE PICTURES TO SHOW YOU THE BIG MESS

AND SOME OF THE WIRES BY THE COMPUTER ARE NOT ENVEN HOOKED UP???

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

Oh, Yeah I forgot to include, that this truck has the california emissions because it has the O2 sensors in front of the cat, and another one on the other side of the cat.

rustypigeon

Code 24 is the "Intake Air Temp Sensor Signal". Indicates an open or short in the intake air temp sensor circuit for 50 msec or more.

Look for a yellow wire with a black stripe. This wire should run from the VAFM to the ECM. You probably have a loose connection in there somewhere.

Unplug the connector from the ECM before you check the wire for continuity. This will protect your ECM from stray voltage from the multimeter. If it does show continuity, jiggle the wires to see if you can get it to open the circuit.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

I have a wiring harness from a 1989 Toyota Pickup 22RE 5 speed from a motor I bought. The motor spun all the bearings so I assume the harness is good. PM me if you're interested.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Start at the local Harborfreight, soldering iron, solder and heat shrink tube. Get the water proof, self sealing heat shrink tube. And lead-free solder.

Now,(ONE AT A TIME!) , start replacing the wire taps at the afm. They really aren't ment to be used like they are used here. And they definatly aren't rated for under the hood usage.

The proceedure goes something like this..

1: disconnect a single wire tap
2: strip one inch off each sides insulator.
3: put a two to three inch piece of heat shrink on one side of the wire, and slide it up out of the way.
4: put the wires to together so they overlap with a bit of bare wire past the insulation.
5: twist/wrap each end around the other 4-5 times. (eight turns in total, is equal to a uncut wire)
6: apply heat from iron
7: apply solder to the opposite side of the wire from the iron. feeding solder till it runs to the insulation.
8: slide the heat shrink over the area, with roughly equal over hang on each end.
9: pass the iron under two to four sides of the heat shrink until tight.

Repeat for each clip.

Regarding the harness swap you'd want/need both sides, eg Body and Engine. And yes the automatic harness differs from the manual. I think it's all in the chassis and dash, but not certain since I've never done the manual to automatic swap.

You can repeat the above steps for that mess in your kick panel, where the taps are used as butt-connectors. Some of thos look like they are actual taps however, so you'd need to find out where both wires go.

Don't use the Diode/Conductivity setting use the Resistance setting, And you are generally safe.

It's not really relevent but here is a short explaination.

In Diode/Conductivity test mode the meter outputs a small to moderate voltage, your user manual will say how much. At the low end this is about 1.2 to 1.6 volts, on the better meters this will be over 3.6v this is so it can test LED's aswell as generic diodes.

In Resistance mode the meter is passive, eg no voltage is output. It is also "High impedance", eg it doesn't route a signifigant amount of power around your test point thru the meter.

And yeah it's a good idea to disconnect your ECU when you're down there mucking around. In this case I'd be alittle afraid to touch the ECU for fear of disconnecting any more of that mess.


And back to a related note. I wouldn't mind seeing the pinouts for those harness connectors if anyone has them or can point to a page/section of the FSM. I still don't have a manual with a full wiring diagram.

scope103

I don't think this is correct. You can't measure resistance without the meter sourcing current. In modern meters, it puts out a constant (but small) current, the magnitude of which depends on the scale. The meter then measures the voltage, which with constant current will be proportional to the resistance.

The "diode test" mode is almost the same; it outputs a constant current, and measures the "forward voltage drop" of the diode. Which for a silicon diode is about 1.6v and for an LED about 3.5v.

Perhaps you are thinking of the voltage mode? In voltage mode no current is sourced, and because the input is high-impedance (megohms on a modern digital meter, even a cheap one) it won't load the circuit you're testing. You'll be measuring voltage, not resistance.

Never measure resistance (ohms) of the terminals of the ECM. It might damage the ECM, and the reading will be useless anyway.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you sir, it's maybe past my nap time, glad someones checking up on me. That was like meant to read "In Voltage mode" not "In resistance mode".

There is still no signifigant voltage or current when measuring resistance. a Conductivity or Diode mode will put out signifigently more of both.

Forward voltage drop is, commonly, in the .6 to 1.6 range depending on the chemistry. LED are in the 1.2v+ range.

There are resistance checks in the FSM for the ECM harness, detailed here, EG1-217 and 218. And yes testing the ECM side is likely useless to most people, but it'll identify shorts/opens and such to an EE.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

I think I will replace the blue connectors, with splicers, and hope it solves the problem

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

CO 94 PU gave you some excellent tips on soldering and that is about as good as you are going to get it as good as it was when it was normal. You should be able to find some Youtube videos on how to solder as well, if this is a first for you or you probably know someone that could show you how.

There are a few color changes in the wiring harness and trying to use a different harness with that many years in between, there were alot of changes. I am not sure if an automatic tranny harness is wired the same or not. I do think that with the different options that there were different harnesses, but could be wrong. Cruise control is one that I am thinking.

If it is possible to find the sections of harness that you want to go with, the harnesses are actually setup quite nice and have several disconnects to make replacing the damaged sections easily. It isnt near as bad as it may seem as long as you arent doing the one that runs under the dash and if you have the dash out it too is easily changed as well.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

That is what I will probally do, Is take off the blue connectors and solder them up, Because Im pretty sure that some of those blue conncectors are not working properlly. I figure I take one off, then solder it up, and then tape it with electrical tape, And hopefully it solves the eclectrical issue, After I messed with it a little today I plugged it back back in the ECU , and it through a couple more codes, So Im pretty sure those blue connectors are garbage. Thanks for all your guys help, Any more advice would be appreciatied.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Where are you located, if its some where with a local upullandpay.com the prices are pretty reasonable, only 28$ for the engine harness, and somewhere in the 5-11$ range for each of the cab and chassis.

Did a little research and the ECU appears to be the same part number(89661-35810, Replaced by: 89661-35810-84), for the 2wd. Which leads me to believe the engine harness would be interchangeable.

Also the 2wd automatic isn't the ECT type, not alot of solenoid wires to worry about. Just the overdrive relay.

The ECM section of the FSM, shows the wiring. The code 24 is disconnect in the air temp sensor, input THA at the ECM. It's the middle wire(#7 from either side), in the longer clip, in the bottom row(top row in your picture).
The AFM section of FSM, shows the wiring. The pictures are the AFM side of the connection. The THA line is the left terminal, opposite of the picture since it's the plug/harness side.

You can supposedly get wiring diagrams from the autozone web site, but it requires a sign up. Since they're pretty crappy heres how to by-pass that crap. Go here, and you'll get the list of diagrams. To view one, the previews won't show up, right click the "Enlarge" and choose open in new window/tab.

I was trying to identify that violet or blue wire dangling in front of the connector in your picture. It was obviously hooked to something and isn't now. But had no luck.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

This just looks like a big mess! If I get this wiring figured out, I will be impressed! But you are right I should go check out the junk yard for a wiring harness, But then, I have to be carfull looking at those too. But I think I will first try to solder up all the connections, and get rid of the blue connectors and see if that solves the problem.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

I found this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-Toyota-Pi...55aa45&vxp=mtr

WOULD THIS BE A GOOD REPLACEMETN? Looks like he wants a lot of money, Thanks.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Way expensive, and the tag says 91 not 92, could be a typo but meh.

my guess would be yotayard.com(Toyota place in denver) would ship you one for less than half that. Hell for that kind of mark up, 170$, I'd go to the local yard and ship you one if I didn't already know I've already removed stuff from the only 22re they have.

I'd solder up the one you have first, then evaluate your parts car harness(i'm pretty sure it'll swap in it's 22re and 2wd?), and don't forget arlindsay1992 offered one he has.

A couple more trys with google searching toyotapartszone turns up this, the google query i used was "site:toyotapartszone.com engine harness, 4runner 1989 22re" not sure on the part numbers still
...
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/compon...-02-11860.html
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/compon...-02-11868.html

here are 7 different harness from what I've gathered for that year range
base part number is 82121-, unfortunatly the diagrams are the same pages. The automatics are sub part 89242 89243 89273, the manual are 89195 89197 89263 89265. So then you go plug those into toyotapartszone to get the interchange info
..
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...121-89273.html <<-- change the last 5 digits to the correct subpart, or use thier part search by number.
.
Says they're not but untill I see a better diagram or side by side I couldn't tell you why other than because they said so.

kdevine321

Got a question. I'm nearly in the same boat as rydholm11211 in that my wire connections are fairly chewed up as well. Several wires on the plug side of a sensor have broken off and I've tried repairing this by splicing the wiring and creating a "new plug". This has happened to my Coolant Temp Sensor, Cold Start Time Switch, and Oil Pressure Sensor.

On to my question...I have a 94 22re M/T that I'm trying to get a wiring harness. From the above procedure checking the part numbers 82111-35300 and it listing 91'-95' as compatible, I can assume a wiring harness for a 92 4wd M/T w/out Cali emissions would be interchangable? I'm trying to purchase a used harness from a guy off Craigslist who doesn't know what truck it came from other than its a 92'. I sent him the ONLY reference I have which is the 93' service manual pdf that is linked on this site to see if its an 4wd M/T or not. However, this doesnt show my 94' wiring harness plug schematic or the 92'. So I don't know if the wiring has changed from these years.

My truck runs ok when all the wires are connecting correctly but I have a Code on the EGR, 02 sensor, and Coolant Temp Sensor. I've tested the EGR and Coolant Temp with a multimeter and they are within spec. So I think my f'd up wiring is burned out somewhere and I can't fix it. But about every three days it starts idling weird, or surging, or starting like crap until I fiddle with the connections.

Any advice WOULD BE HUGE!!!!!!!!!! And sorry to bump but this is the best info I've seen on the compatibility of a wiring harness.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You need the same part number..

82111 is the forward/dash harness. If you follow the indicator lines, right down and down-left, that big square thing is the engine bay fuse/relay box. Following the wires out the front it goes the head lamps, battery(?), and the last one on the right coming out the top goes to the dash.

Look in the lower picture and you see the 82121 points at the looming cover located at the bottom of the inner apron. This is the engine harness, it contains all the MFI sensors. The connection at the far right bottom is the o2 sensor. The cali harness will have two connections here, it's also the longest run of wire in the harness so easy to identify.

The AFM run might be just as long or longer after looking at it abit more, but it was a very distinct plug and there is nothing else that exits that section.

You can look at that ebay picture linked, note the plastic looming cover, also the AFM and o2 connectors are in the center.

Unless guys asking price is "cheap as chips", he just lost half his asking price. Did he atleast know if it was a 4 or 6 cylinder

Here is diagram for a v6, notice it kind of has a funky E shape to it.

kdevine321

Thanks for the correction CO 94 PU. Now I've got good news and bad news. Bad news is that the engine wiring harness from a 92' 22re WILL NOT fit a 94', even with similar body style, trans, and all that. This is according to the website you suggested http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...CheckPart.aspx
Good news, I guess, is that I think you, CO 94 PU, saved my alot of time and money!! I didn't drive 1 1/2 hours one way to buy a $75 part that wouldn't work. I wish I knew WHY they aren't compatible though. Maybe I could modify it enough to make it work. I do think that the ECM terminal layout did change within just a year. From trying to conduct a connectivity test on a wire from the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT), it appeared that THW or THA terminal, (I can't remember which) did not have the same color wire going into it as coming out of the sensor. This was according to what the 93' FSM said should be the terminal for the CTS. So maybe the THW moved around on the plug from year to year? But then again, the FSM is from a 93' which according to the compatibility website should work for a 93'-95' ...part# 82121-35152. So, basically I guess I'm still confused about how to fix this wire issue. If the wire pattern on the plug didn't change, then why does the wire color change from the the engine side on the sensor the ECU side in the cab?
Anyway, you guys have already helped my tremendously with that compatibility website! Thanks!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

More likely the name given to the pin/plug changed. Don't recall the year off hand, but I know they did this on the Inst' cluster. Changed abcd to dcba, all the wires are in the same position just the plug names were swaped around.

I can tell you on the different wiring digrams I checked THW has stayed consistently green-blue. If you were looking for Brown-black thats the wrong side of the wire. And keep in mind there are vast environment differences between the cabin and engine bay, they will have faded differently.

There are wiring diagrams available for free from autozones website (LINK).
Engine wiring-22RE 1989-92 4Runner and 1989-90 Pick-Up
Engine wiring-Pick-Up 1991-92 4-cylinder
Engine wiring-Pick-Up 1993-95 4-cylinder
Engine wiring-4Runner 1993-96 4-cylinder

Test the wiring, inspect the wires where they meet with the plugs. Source new wire online or at the local yard. You can cut out bad wiring and replace it.

I gave very thorough instructions for "proper" splicing in an above post. Replacing connectors and water or other-type damaged wires is pretty much the same. You strip back the insulation untill you get to nice clean shiney copper make a cut and add new wire.

You can also "firm up" bad crimps by..
1: apply a little soldering flux heat it untill the flux activates (sizzling bacon sound)
2: clean the flux off with some alcohol(flux wipes), or water(depending on your flux type) don't forget to dry it off before the water evaporates.
3: Inspect for bright clean copper (repeat steps 1 and 2 if needed)
4: Apply a little more flux
5: Re attach the connector by crimping
6: Heat at the far side of the connector, eg away from the wire insulation
7: apply solder to the opposite side of the heat source, eg next to the insulation. Keep pushing in the solder till it runs/flows out the end you are heating.
8: wipe off any left over flux residues (You should be left with a bright shiney solder joint)
9: apply a little di-electric compound for added water protection (The telephone companys use pure glycerin,I don't know of a good source for it but it's in the little butt connectors you can buy.)
10: Apply heat shrink if needed to cover any exposed wire
11: reinsert the connector into the plug housing.

Sourcing new connectors (just the metal bits) or removing them from the wire is the hard part In some cases you can just leave them on and to the flux flux solder thing, but it's best to remove them.